4G93 into Mirage, now 4G94 into Mirage

Re: 4G93 into Mirage

I reckon the factory installed the engine/tranny from underneath so yes it makes sense to yank it out the same way BUT how are you going to do that in your driveway?
The factory had specialised heavy equipment, lucky them........

ABrouwer said:
Is it not possible / easier to pull it up from underneath? I had lots of fun trying to wiggle it in from the top. Be very careful not to break stuff, the amount of times I had to stop and remove something or cover something was frustrating. My advice would be remove as much stuff from the bay that you are confident you will be able to put back!
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Re: 4G93 into Mirage

I am hopefully pulling another engine out again this weekend I will take pics along the way and post up so that you have a clear view of what is needed to be done in a easy fashion usually once the engine is free of all bolts wires etc it takes maybe 15 mintes to remove from engine bay... I must adit thou I got lazy on my last engine install last week I did not even jack the car up nor remove the wheels took a little longer I think 20 minutes and it was all bolted up...
 
Re: 4G93 into Mirage

Looking forward to your how to :thumbup:
You?, LAZY???? nahh I don't believe it LOL :mrgreen:

chowetime said:
I am hopefully pulling another engine out again this weekend I will take pics along the way and post up so that you have a clear view of what is needed to be done in a easy fashion usually once the engine is free of all bolts wires etc it takes maybe 15 mintes to remove from engine bay... I must adit thou I got lazy on my last engine install last week I did not even jack the car up nor remove the wheels took a little longer I think 20 minutes and it was all bolted up...
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Re: 4G93 into Mirage

Some of you have undoubtedly figured this out already but I know some of the members were of the belief that what the Gregory's bible calls the CENTRE MEMBER, what we seem to call the gearbox crossmember is not a MOUNTING at all but simply a means of countering torque reaction to stabilise the engine block/tranny assembly.
If you wanted to pull the motor without the gearbox the crossmember would be strong enough to help support the gearbox but its still not a mounting as such.
The crossmember on my Lancer was taking NO LOAD. The long through bolts passing through the centre of the rubber bushings came out with finger pressure clearly indicating no weight was bearing on them.
Now that my engine is only supported by the two siderail situated mountings it swings like a pendulum, kinda cool :)
 
Re: 4G93 into Mirage

I salvaged the ignition lock barrel from my donor 1.8 Lancer yesterday.
As I only have the one chipped key from the donor Lancer I asked a locksmith about getting a spare cut.
I told him about the project in general terms.
He suggested I needed to grab the key reader from the donor car as well....
I'd like some clarification here please.
I thought the key reader from my Mirage would be OK, which is to say I thought the key reader was not itself coded it just told the CPU that I had the right key code??
Second am I right that the remote factory central locking alarm fob is not in any way linked to the key chip code? (independant system altogether??)
I was not going to change my Mirage remote fobs.
Your thoughts?
Cheers,
Greg
 
Re: 4G93 into Mirage

you'll need the key, ecu and imobiliser all to match as for the key reader its self you may be right but its just comes off in 2 sec so to save any hassle you may aswell change it aim not sure about that 100%.
Don't forget to get the door locks to and swap them over aswell.
As for the remote/locking you are correct there's no need to change it as its stand alone. If its a factory one
tll be installed just next to or near the bcm up under the dash.
 
Re: 4G93 into Mirage

Thanks, as you suggested I salvaged the dash loom and the electrical stuff that it was attached to.
I think we are right about the key reader being dumb (not encoded) as mine does not have any numbers or stickers on it which I think it would have if they were all unique.
When I was salvaging the ECU and LHS engine bay wiring loom it really bugged me that these items were so inaccessible.
I think when I get to installing the 1.8 loom in the Mirage my ECU will be living in my glovebox plugs facing upwards towards the loom (I never use my glovebox for storing stuff). It fits neatly and does not even take up much space.



mmc77 said:
you'll need the key, ecu and imobiliser all to match as for the key reader its self you may be right but its just comes off in 2 sec so to save any hassle you may aswell change it aim not sure about that 100%.
Don't forget to get the door locks to and swap them over aswell.
As for the remote/locking you are correct there's no need to change it as its stand alone. If its a factory one
tll be installed just next to or near the bcm up under the dash.
Click to expand...
 
Re: 4G93 into Mirage

Salvaged the driveshafts and front brakes (Lancer brakes are in better shape than my Mirage) from the donor Lancer today :)
Gregorys bible says to get the big castelated nut off the driveshaft to get an assistant to stand on the brakes to stop the hubs rotating. I had to work alone today so I was lucky to have a length of angle iron handy that was bolted to the hub to keep it steady whilst I put pressure on the nut (see pic) The bible was right about the big nut being TIGHT :oops:
I was using a strong half inch square socket wrench with a sturdy length of steel pipe which together gave me a handle 80cm long.
A fit healthy person would not struggle with the effort required to undo this big nut but I only just managed it.
Once the nut was off I used a block of hardwood (to protect the threads on the shaft) and a hammer to tap the driveshaft through the hub, this bit was easy.
The brakes were saved also but the discs were frozen on and needed a puller to get them off.
The calipers come off easy but the brake pads are held in place by a very silly selection of springs and clips and shims that don't fit well and are a bugger to refit.

rsz_driveshaft_removal.jpg
 
Re: 4G93 into Mirage

well done on getting the nut undone another way is to get a sledge hammer and give the long pipe a healthy crack and that will usually be enough to break its grip... now I use a rattlegun... (cheat method)
 
Re: 4G93 into Mirage

In what must surely be a world record (slowest :oops: ) for a Lancer strip job the motor/tranny finally learned how to fly today after 7 weeks of tinkering.
I did one thing differently to the experts.
I was looking at the Lancer engine bay and its obvious to me that if Mitsubishi had BOLTED the battery brackets to the lhs siderail instead of spot welding them on then motor removal would be a simple affair instead of a complex aerial ballet.
The stupidly designed battery brackets were removed.
OK they need to be bolted back on after the swap or an idea I prefer is to design my own.
The motor/tranny comes out without a struggle with the brackets absent, just needs to be swung on an angle with mountings removed.
Cheers,
Greg

rsz_batterybrackets.jpg


rsz_nobatterybrackets.jpg


rsz_lhsclearance.jpg


rsz_rhs_clearance.jpg


rsz_flyingmotor.jpg
 
Re: 4G93 into Mirage

Wow, thats awesomely clean... Like a bought one :p
 
Re: 4G93 into Mirage

good job on getting it out straight. I've got mine in and going and although the 93 isn't a power house ill admit i got a grin on my face when i went up the first big hill and it pulled the whole way up it through the gears. The old mirage goes alright with a 1.8 def worth the swap.
A few things of note that's been discussed here or may help you out
* the 1.8 header/down pipe bolts straight on to the mirage cat
* all i used was the engine bay harness everything else was plug and play you might need to check that too. my wire colours didn't match on some connectors so refer to the bible if your concerned.
* you'll need the 1.8 tach cluster as my 1.5 tach cluster didn't work with out rewiring
* i removed the belt adjust brackets on the 1.5 air con pump and it bolted straight on to the 1.8 bracket, you may need to check this is the same on yours.
* reset the ecu when your finished testing everything by leaving it disconnected for awhile then start the car and let it run for 10 minutes without touching anything then switch car off.
* don't worry if you idle is funny or stalls when you pull up for the first few runs it'll sort its self out pretty quickly.
GL installing it you'll find it alt easier now that you've removed it.
 
Re: 4G93 into Mirage

Good work there with getting engine out... This weekend I learnt something if you want to get around the cars immobiliser and not change keys barrels etc swap ecu pins around 22and 8 this will start and run car,.
 
Re: 4G93 into Mirage

Thanks for all the clues and the support, its much appreciated :thumbup:
I'm praying hard not to have wiring mismatches as electricity and me don't get along too well.
I have heard of that ECU resetting deal with Mitsubishi's. A guy I knew had a Magna 3 litre TF with a dead battery. We changed the battery but it ran funny and stalled at the lights. We ran the Mitsu service folks and they told us to pull the battery and let its "memory erase" Then hook up the sparks again start and just let it idle for 30 mins so it "teaches" itself how to idle properly......... :shock:
Its hilly in my area and the 1.5 does not like them much. I can't get a run at them either because the Roadside Revenue Patrol does excellent business locally.
Pardon my ignorance the Mirage/Lancer are my first Mitsubishis but everybody on the forum seems to love the 4G93 so I would think a turbo would work wonders on it?
I expect that would put a massive smile on lots of faces :D
Cheers,
Greg

quote="mmc77"]good job on getting it out straight. I've got mine in and going and although the 93 isn't a power house ill admit i got a grin on my face when i went up the first big hill and it pulled the whole way up it through the gears. The old mirage goes alright with a 1.8 def worth the swap.
A few things of note that's been discussed here or may help you out
* the 1.8 header/down pipe bolts straight on to the mirage cat
* all i used was the engine bay harness everything else was plug and play you might need to check that too. my wire colours didn't match on some connectors so refer to the bible if your concerned.
* you'll need the 1.8 tach cluster as my 1.5 tach cluster didn't work with out rewiring
* i removed the belt adjust brackets on the 1.5 air con pump and it bolted straight on to the 1.8 bracket, you may need to check this is the same on yours.
* reset the ecu when your finished testing everything by leaving it disconnected for awhile then start the car and let it run for 10 minutes without touching anything then switch car off.
* don't worry if you idle is funny or stalls when you pull up for the first few runs it'll sort its self out pretty quickly.
GL installing it you'll find it alt easier now that you've removed it.[/quote]
 
Re: 4G93 into Mirage

Your timing is AMAZING :D
I hate bloody immobilisers so I was not well pleased at having to swap locks and keys and stuff.
I'm a ways off actually installing the 1.8 ECU but if its not too much trouble could you tell me in language a knuckle dragging neanderthal could understand HOW one SWAPS ECU pins???
Sounds like brain surgery to me :lol:
I love your discovery, thanks muchly :thumbup:
Cheers,
Greg

chowetime said:
Good work there with getting engine out... This weekend I learnt something if you want to get around the cars immobiliser and not change keys barrels etc swap ecu pins around 22and 8 this will start and run car,.
Click to expand...
 
Re: 4G93 into Mirage

Same thing happens with my car, if I disconnect the battery for a lil while then drive it again it nearly stalls at lights and can't idle properly. But within 10 minutes of driving it's back to normal.
 
Re: 4G93 into Mirage

Now keep in mind the ECU that I swapped over to was a US made one so I have not tried this on a Australian ECU only swap... but it is worth a shot...
The wire loom that runs from the engine bay thru the firewall to the ecu - this is the wire loom that needs to be swapped around - open your Gregories Manual and turn to page 231 there is a ECU pinout diagram find slot/pin number 22 and 8 and pop those pins out and swap there positions

to remove the pins from the ecu you need to carefully lift the white plastic strip up it will not come off completely it will only raise by about 2-3mm, also a thin but strong metal pin - maybe a blunt nail may do the trick - slide the nail into the reverse side of the yellow plug and carefully push against it to unclip it from inside whilst also gently pulling on the wire.. there is a knack to it you do need to be patient to get it free before fully removing the pin take note of how it went in as well so that the correct side is up.
 
Re: 4G93 into Mirage

A few experts have said that if you don't want to fuss with immobilisers get a US market ECU but they didn't mention swapping ECU pins maybe they just forgot to mention that bit??
I checked the Gregorys bible and pin 8 is said to be an A/C circuit (Aircon?)........that does not compute :?
Pin 22 is said to be a fuel pump relay circuit so that part sort of makes sense......
Immobilisers are something I've had no experience with prior to getting my Mirage & Lancer but I had read that they work by interrupting the ignition and fuel supply.
Your discovery clearly worked for you (well done :thumbup: ) I just wish it made sense to me why it did.


chowetime said:
Now keep in mind the ECU that I swapped over to was a US made one so I have not tried this on a Australian ECU only swap... but it is worth a shot...
The wire loom that runs from the engine bay thru the firewall to the ecu - this is the wire loom that needs to be swapped around - open your Gregories Manual and turn to page 231 there is a ECU pinout diagram find slot/pin number 22 and 8 and pop those pins out and swap there positions

to remove the pins from the ecu you need to carefully lift the white plastic strip up it will not come off completely it will only raise by about 2-3mm, also a thin but strong metal pin - maybe a blunt nail may do the trick - slide the nail into the reverse side of the yellow plug and carefully push against it to unclip it from inside whilst also gently pulling on the wire.. there is a knack to it you do need to be patient to get it free before fully removing the pin take note of how it went in as well so that the correct side is up.
Click to expand...
 
Re: 4G93 into Mirage

Easisest option i would have done is get a locksmith to just recode your old key to the new ecu, or if it cant be recoded just get them to make one to code, saves changine key barrels and keys to match ecu's but is costly.
 
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