4G93 into Mirage, now 4G94 into Mirage

martian_mirage

martian_mirage

New Member
Hi guys :)
The Mitsubishi gods kindly put me onto a damaged low kay 2002 Lancer 1.8 5 speed coupe so I'm stripping the coupe for parts at present.
My first roadblock came yesterday when I tried to withdraw the left driveshaft from the diff.
I read on the net that I ought to be using a prybar to lever the inner CV joint from the diff.
Access to the area is a mongrel.
I tried to give myself more room by undoing the steering balljoint and the lower wishbone mountings which let the strut swing out.
The only prying type tools I have are not shifting the shaft but even with the suspension bits sort of out of the way access is still a mongrel mainly due to the suspension crossmember but also because of the design of the gearbox casing which on the left puts a shield almost all the way around the left inner CV joint.
Like a lot of things it would be easier if it was up on a hoist but of course I'm making do with it jacked up so not much room to move underneath.
I have a couple of mature age pals trying to help out (mainly emotional support really) but I am NOT a teenager and my bad shoulder means brute force is a problem for me.
Any thoughts?
Cheers,
Greg
 
Re: 4G93 into Mirage

sounds like your on the right path there mate good job on getting the 1.8 for your mirage. hard to say what's happening there and holding you up with out seeing what's going on exactly but have you got Gregory manual? if you havnt get one it tells you every step in the right order to make it much easier best $40 you'll ever spend. This might sound like a silly question but ill ask it, when you say the car is jacked up do you mean on a jack? if it is that's pretty suicidal tbh have you go it on jack stand? might be silly to ask but car on head is not good.
good luck looking forward to seeing you mirage with the 1.8 in it.
 
Re: 4G93 into Mirage

ok to pry a driveshaft out you dont actually pry. if you just pry forget about getting them out.
for starter your pry bar should more or less push the cup outward. if you want to use a crowbar, you have less chance of sucesss
on a 1.8 box is actually easier to do than 1.5. on the 1.5 box the passenger side is a little harder due to the casting.
there is a circlip on the shaft inside so if it is jammed then you wont get it out. if you cant "pop" it out after a few smack jiggle the cup and turn it and try again.
once the bar is in a nice position you have to smack it to overcome the circlip. if you just pry you may further jam the circlip and it will get stuck.

the worst case scenerio would be the circlip is stuck and unless it becomes un stuck form the inside you will just have to stick with removing the boot clamp and just slide the cv joint out.
nothing wrong with leaving the cupside in the box. you can still remove the box out on its own as though its a clutch job.
but since you are doing a conversion just remove the complete engine and box in one assembly. and if required remove the gearbox after the complete unit is out if you want the further work.
 
Re: 4G93 into Mirage

I am working on getting a Gregory manual as we speak but was hoping I would not need it. Got a "manual" on CD rom from Ebay but frankly its a dud. I am using jack to lift then axle stands to support thanks for your concern ;)
Cheers,
Greg
mmc77 said:
sounds like your on the right path there mate good job on getting the 1.8 for your mirage. hard to say what's happening there and holding you up with out seeing what's going on exactly but have you got Gregory manual? if you havnt get one it tells you every step in the right order to make it much easier best $40 you'll ever spend. This might sound like a silly question but ill ask it, when you say the car is jacked up do you mean on a jack? if it is that's pretty suicidal tbh have you go it on jack stand? might be silly to ask but car on head is not good.
good luck looking forward to seeing you mirage with the 1.8 in it.
Click to expand...
 
Re: 4G93 into Mirage

This afternoon I tried the right side shaft.
Because the right side inner CV is much easier to get at I thought I could pop it out easy, silly me :(
I was able to get a decent long prybar on the CV but it never budged.
No wonder I could not shift the left side using much less force :(
Sounds like getting the whole CV assembly out of the diff is a total mongrel I was not expecting.
I've not pulled a CV apart before so you reckon undo the inner CV boot clamp then pull the shaft out of the cup with the CV guts attached?
I was planning to use the complete 1.8 motor and box as its only done 69 thousand, quite a bit less than my 1.5 (109 thousand).
Thanks ;)

quote="Hens"]ok to pry a driveshaft out you dont actually pry. if you just pry forget about getting them out.
for starter your pry bar should more or less push the cup outward. if you want to use a crowbar, you have less chance of sucesss
on a 1.8 box is actually easier to do than 1.5. on the 1.5 box the passenger side is a little harder due to the casting.
there is a circlip on the shaft inside so if it is jammed then you wont get it out. if you cant "pop" it out after a few smack jiggle the cup and turn it and try again.
once the bar is in a nice position you have to smack it to overcome the circlip. if you just pry you may further jam the circlip and it will get stuck.

the worst case scenerio would be the circlip is stuck and unless it becomes un stuck form the inside you will just have to stick with removing the boot clamp and just slide the cv joint out.
nothing wrong with leaving the cupside in the box. you can still remove the box out on its own as though its a clutch job.
but since you are doing a conversion just remove the complete engine and box in one assembly. and if required remove the gearbox after the complete unit is out if you want the further work.[/quote]
 
Re: 4G93 into Mirage

Undoing the boot clamp on the inner CV did the trick ;)
The driveshafts are now out of the diff, great tip thanks Hen :D
Cheers,
Greg

Hens said:
ok to pry a driveshaft out you dont actually pry. if you just pry forget about getting them out.
for starter your pry bar should more or less push the cup outward. if you want to use a crowbar, you have less chance of sucesss
on a 1.8 box is actually easier to do than 1.5. on the 1.5 box the passenger side is a little harder due to the casting.
there is a circlip on the shaft inside so if it is jammed then you wont get it out. if you cant "pop" it out after a few smack jiggle the cup and turn it and try again.
once the bar is in a nice position you have to smack it to overcome the circlip. if you just pry you may further jam the circlip and it will get stuck.

the worst case scenerio would be the circlip is stuck and unless it becomes un stuck form the inside you will just have to stick with removing the boot clamp and just slide the cv joint out.
nothing wrong with leaving the cupside in the box. you can still remove the box out on its own as though its a clutch job.
but since you are doing a conversion just remove the complete engine and box in one assembly. and if required remove the gearbox after the complete unit is out if you want the further work.
Click to expand...
 
Re: 4G93 into Mirage

One final electrical job and the motor/gearbox can come out of the 1.8 Lancer.
I saved what looks to me to be the trickiest part of the job till last, namely unplugging the left/right engine bay looms from the dash loom.
I have removed the glovebox and as much of the under dash plastic as I can and frankly I have seen sardines that were not jammed into a can as tightly as the electrics under this dash. Access is terrible.
Apparently I'm just supposed to unplug the engine bay looms from the dash loom but particularly on the right side I can't even see the engine bay loom entering the cabin. There is so much stuff jammed in there and this electrically ignorant home tinkerer does not know what he is looking at. :?
I don't suppose there are pics around that show this procedure??
Cheers,
Greg :?
 
Re: 4G93 into Mirage

Although ive never done it myself, prehaps removing the dash will make everything a lot more accessable? Plus its a learning experience haha
 
Re: 4G93 into Mirage

I have done a few of these swaps and it is a very good swap and is easy enough... you do need to remove the dash to get to the looms the main dash loom runs from passenger side to driver side and then under the carpet to the rear drivers side passneger to be unplugged there is also a couple of earth points as well.. to get the engine bay loom out of the car successfully you need to remove the aircond boxes inside the car as the large grommet is behind this were the plugs poke thru..

there is a DIY on this forum that shows how to remove the dash very very easy maybe a 15 minute job... once the dash is removed that solves all your problems.

On a side note what year Mirage is yours as there are a couple of things that you will want to swap before installing new engine such as power steering line, the throttle cable, and install the engine bay loom before the new engine...
 
Re: 4G93 into Mirage

I just pulled my looms out the other night with the dash out and also had to remove the fan box ( the big white one closest to the left hand side) and that exposes the loom going in to the engine bay , ecu etc. To get the fan box out there's two bolts at the top and one underneath then I just loosened the nuts on next box across ( the black A/C one) just enough to have a bit of movement to wiggle the white fan box out.
To get to the other loom that goes from the right hand side interior fuse box and BCM just un bolt it all and let it hang down and it can be unplugged from the back of there. As chowe mentioned its much easier to do with the dash out and Its is pretty quick and easy to get out.
 
Re: 4G93 into Mirage

[Dash removal, OMIGOD, never done that before, hate electrical stuff. :shock:
I love your optimism. (15 minute dash out) :lol:
OK I'm VERY slow and methodical cos I don't like to get anything wrong.
My Mirage is an october 2003 plate and my donor 1.8 is an april 2002 plate.
Only DIY thread I can see on this says do what it says in the Gregory manual (don't have one yet but working on it)
I don't intend to use the pristine black interior out of my donor 2002 Commonwealth games edition coupe so maybe this dash removal will make selling unwanted items easier......
Somebody suggested just undo every screw and bolt in sight and the dash is eventually out......
I guess the steering wheel has to come off???







quote="chowetime"]I have done a few of these swaps and it is a very good swap and is easy enough... you do need to remove the dash to get to the looms the main dash loom runs from passenger side to driver side and then under the carpet to the rear drivers side passneger to be unplugged there is also a couple of earth points as well.. to get the engine bay loom out of the car successfully you need to remove the aircond boxes inside the car as the large grommet is behind this were the plugs poke thru..

there is a DIY on this forum that shows how to remove the dash very very easy maybe a 15 minute job... once the dash is removed that solves all your problems.

On a side note what year Mirage is yours as there are a couple of things that you will want to swap before installing new engine such as power steering line, the throttle cable, and install the engine bay loom before the new engine...[/quote]
 
Re: 4G93 into Mirage

mmc77 said:
...have you got Gregory manual? if you havnt get one it tells you every step in the right order to make it much easier best $40 you'll ever spend.
Click to expand...

100% agreed on this. :thumbup:

Any Supercheap or Repco will carry them, easily found.
 
Re: 4G93 into Mirage

if your methodical then un doing every bolt/nut you can see is not the way to go , so don't do that. yes the steering wheel has to come off and to make your life easier the two bolts holding the upper section of the steering coloum to let it be lowered down again its in the manual.
As chowe said it is a 15minute job if you know where all the bolts are, put it this way it'll take you hours with out the manual by the time you find the hidden bolts etc and what order to do it in.
So what I'm trying to say is GET A *fudge*ING MANUAL!!!! lol seriously right now go do it don't torment yourself any longer.

Did i mention get a manual?
 
Re: 4G93 into Mirage

Hmmm was that like 15 EARTH minutes??
OK I know I'm SLOW but I spent two hours the other day pulling out seats and consoles and lower dash plastics (didn't break anything though so I will self award minor brownie points for that).
This afternoon I spent four TORTUROUS hours tying myself in knots doing what seemed obvious and my major achievement was freeing up the ECU and the two big plugs linking the LHS engine bay loom to the LHS dash loom but the white heater blower unit won todays battle by preventing further movement.
I figured I should stop because I was feeling like throwing spanners and thats not good for my blood pressure.
The dash is loose down below but seems to be hanging on near the base of the windscreen, I'll wait for the magic manual to reveal the greater truth.
Comfort food is needed badly, and a physiotherapist........


quote="mmc77"]if your methodical then un doing every bolt/nut you can see is not the way to go , so don't do that. yes the steering wheel has to come off and to make your life easier the two bolts holding the upper section of the steering coloum to let it be lowered down again its in the manual.
As chowe said it is a 15minute job if you know where all the bolts are, put it this way it'll take you hours with out the manual by the time you find the hidden bolts etc and what order to do it in.
So what I'm trying to say is GET A **** MANUAL!!!! lol seriously right now go do it don't torment yourself any longer.

Did i mention get a manual?[/quote]
 
Re: 4G93 into Mirage

dont beat yourself up for not doing it as fast as mentioned I have removed more dashs than I can count... removing steering wheel is not really nessicary but everyone has a special way in how they save on time.

with the air cond box did you disconnect it from the engine bay... also getting them out does have its own method... I think from memory you have to remove the middle one then the one n the far left...

if the dash is "hanging then you most likely have removed all the nut bolts etc have you disconnected the wire loom were the gauge cluster goes the two plugs that connect to the cluster needs to be un hooked from the dash also the body control modual and the box next to it needs to also needs to be fully unplugged

the dash has a couple of screw type bolts that the dash sits in and all that the dash then needs is for it to be jiggled off to be removed... if this still does not work check wire looms and connections as this is most likely to be what is holding you up...

but keep at it you will get there
 
Re: 4G93 into Mirage

kudos to giving this a go, well worth it in the end , also, get a big enough pry bar and the cv's come out ;) got mine out of my car and got 2 out of another engine today by prying. no dmg done.
 
Re: 4G93 into Mirage

You're right I don't need to beat up on myself, the cars will do that very efficiently ;)
I'm having today off as I need the inner peace, think butterflies and the breeze in the trees...... :)
I figured the two plastic plugs that connect to the gauges need to come loose but it was not obvious how they disconnect.
The central dash panel that houses the heater controls hazzard flashers clock etc is still in place and I figured that should be out, I could not see inside too well the gearshift was giving me grief so I moved on to other areas.
I can see bolts and other mystery items coming through the firewall/bulkhead into the engine bay and I figured some of them would be holding heater aircon items in place...........
Sorry I don't know what you mean by "body control module and box next to it"???
Hope to get a gregory's manual in a few days.
Thanks for all the clues :thumbup:
Cheers,
Greg

chowetime said:
dont beat yourself up for not doing it as fast as mentioned I have removed more dashs than I can count... removing steering wheel is not really nessicary but everyone has a special way in how they save on time.

with the air cond box did you disconnect it from the engine bay... also getting them out does have its own method... I think from memory you have to remove the middle one then the one n the far left...

if the dash is "hanging then you most likely have removed all the nut bolts etc have you disconnected the wire loom were the gauge cluster goes the two plugs that connect to the cluster needs to be un hooked from the dash also the body control modual and the box next to it needs to also needs to be fully unplugged

the dash has a couple of screw type bolts that the dash sits in and all that the dash then needs is for it to be jiggled off to be removed... if this still does not work check wire looms and connections as this is most likely to be what is holding you up...

but keep at it you will get there
Click to expand...
 
Re: 4G93 into Mirage

You did well to get those driveshafts out!
I did manage to get a decent crowbar on to the RHS inner CV joint but it never looked like moving. I read that driving in a wedge will pop them out so I tried a thick blunt cold chisel teamed with a decent hammer, no joy. Those inner CV's are bloody hard to remove.
Driveshafts USED to be easy to remove. The early front drives had tough old fashioned CV's that you could just yank out by pulling on the disconnected hubs.
Leaving the cups in the diff is messy but WAY less stressful.
Cheers,
Greg

Joshy_morris said:
kudos to giving this a go, well worth it in the end , also, get a big enough pry bar and the cv's come out ;) got mine out of my car and got 2 out of another engine today by prying. no dmg done.
Click to expand...
 
Re: 4G93 into Mirage

martian_mirage said:
You did well to get those driveshafts out!

Driveshafts USED to be easy to remove. The early front drives had tough old fashioned CV's that you could just yank out by pulling on the disconnected hubs.
Leaving the cups in the diff is messy but WAY less stressful.
Click to expand...

If you give up with the pry bar, there's a metal clip, undo that and the CV will just yank out, leaving the cups in the diff.
 
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