mdclear said:if its on photo bucket just post the forum image code here.
chowetime said:Nice job there sounds like it is all coming together or rather unraveling itself nicely... Just remember when doing the interior loom the loom that runs along the dash to take the two relays that are connected to the centre post were the head unit goes the key reader box (grey box) start from left work to the right... You will also need to trace this loom under drivers seat to passenger seat (only earth and door signal wires) you can cut this single wire and reconnect up to your existing wire no big deal if it a failure to connect as it is just a door ajar wire....
Behind the drivers seat you also need to jus disconnect that is all
And yeah no need to take the loom that runs from drivers side to radiator to fuse box they are all the same....
When taking the key barrel put key in ignition turn key to acc. Then get thin nail and look under the key barrel and you will see a tiny gold button push this in and pull key out this will remove key barrel... Also grab the plastic bits that have wires etc coming fRom it I will post up pics tomorrow to show you what you need to get...
Umm as for he accolades.... You made me blush... Cheers
martian_mirage said:Hmmm thats probably a good suggestion but this 237 year old member has no idea what you just said.........forum image code?..........nope, no idea, sorry
.......mdclear said:if its on photo bucket just post the forum image code here.
mmc77 said:Your right side engine loom that plugs into your interior fuse box/bcm runs right around the front of the car the engine compartment fuse box inclusive. The LHS loom or enginge loom goes from the ecu to the engine which you already know.
And you are right they do join together but are only connected in a coulpe of spots one is the positive battery terminal and the other is right at the front of the engine bay fuse box iirc. There may be another plug connection there too sitting on top of the gear box somewhere, but they are seperate.
Have a look around there and youll see they seperate.
I pulled my LHS loom/engine loom through the firewall and removed the section that runs along the firewall (removed from the firewall not from the loom) and undid those connections I mentioned above to break the connection to the right sied loom and sat the whole lot on top of the motor when i removed it. All the plugs etc to the motor are still there no connections are unplugged at all.
The only thing I unplugged off the motor it self when I removed as far as elec connections go was the power steering pressure switch, A/C elec connection , O2 sensor because I left the header on and down pipe in the car and the only other electrical connection was one of the coil plugs as it was close to the lifting chain and i didn't want to damage it.
ARC said:martian_mirage said:Hmmm thats probably a good suggestion but this 237 year old member has no idea what you just said.........forum image code?..........nope, no idea, sorry
.......mdclear said:if its on photo bucket just post the forum image code here.
When you upload your pic and go to your gallery on photo bucket and move your cursor over your photo you'll get linking options appear below.
Click on the one that says Image Code and it'll automatically copy the tag and you just have to paste it into your post.
Once posted into your post, It should appear similar to this before you submit:
mmc77 said:because i know martian_mirage likes all the details here's a pic of my engine sitting on the cross member on the engine crane legs.
I've also put some bricks under the bracket at the front because its been sitting there for 2 weeks and just encased the crane drops but you'd be better off putting a piece of timber under the front or engine mount, mines really being held by the cross member but balanced by the crane and the bricks are there just incase .
it also gives you a stable platform if you want to to some servicing etc on the engine whilst its out. you don't have to sit it on the crane legs you could sit it on the floor or what ever.
chowetime said:Another way to remove the engine is you could cut the front end out of the wreck and just wheel it out?
I see that you have left the wire loom still connected to the engine - if you tilt the engine gearbox out you will pinch and possibly damage the loom... if removing the loom completely is not really an option for you at this moment can I suggest that you have the loom sitting between the intake manifold and the engine - this may mean that you have the chains on the tilt part on the crane a little longer to clear the bundle... another item to remove to help give good clearances is the oil filter - you will be surprised as to how much room that will give you.
when I have removed engines out in the past I first secure the engine to the crane -
crawl under car and unbolt rear engine mount bolt(1) from cross member and then only loosen crossmember bolts ( 2)-
remove front cross member bolt (1)
undo front cross member bolts (2)
while you have been doing this I would be making sure that the engine is not moving and staying roughly the same height
crawl back under car and remove the rear crossmember bolts
now remove both the engine and gearbox bolts - these may need a little bit of a wiggle to help come out
now that engine is 100% hanging off the crane you now tilt the gearbox end low as it can go
and now start jacking the the crane up so that the engine side has cleared the chassis rail, then keep on jacking up and leveling out so that the gearbox has cleared the other chassis rail then keep on raising the engine a bit so that it clears the front radiator support bar and that is it.
mmc77 said:man your a bit weird and it took me a minute to get what your going on about but that's actually pretty funny lol.
:thumbup: