Pod Filters vs Panel Filters for the CE Lancer
- Thread starter Ryan
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mdclear said:
yeh this is tru, but for a flexi pipe that is behind the bumper (so they cant really see it) unless u got the coin to throw around
plus i do believe that its (for qld) the intake has to be securely fixed/bracketed to the chassy, i read that as, aslong as its attached and not going to come off it "should" be okay
owell, any mod can be passed off as illegal these days if the cop is having a bad day
Ahoy there guys, been reading through this section tryin to figure out what i should do for a pod intake. I did it today and went with the pod filter in front of the left wheel, after i had finished, i turned the car on and it seemed to be really struggling to idle, i jumped in and gave it a bit on the accelerator and there was barely any response, and it nearly cut out. Just wondering what iv done wrong? any suggestions 
lancer02ce
Member
Sounds like when I left the plastic bag over my pod when cleaning
skippy said:
this^^^, cant believe so many ppl dont put them back on, it seems obvious to me i thing with wires going to it and wirey stuff inside, seems like a crucial part of the intake
not aimed at the dude who has the problem im just amazed as to how many ppl i kno who made this mistake on other cars
A good smooth pipe intake is far superior to any panel filter setup ive seen.
Most of the good brand filters out there have close performance when coupled with a good intake piping kit. Its more wise to have better intake piping than to argue just to argue about which filter is the best.
Reducing restriction at the end of the intake pipe also will improve air flow into the engine and increase power. You can do so by using a less restrictive filter with a smooth entry. Some filter have a built in velocity stack too. As I can seen dyno test to show that a a smooth entry will increase power and torque. eg a velocity stack at the end of an intake pipe for a race car will make more power than just having a pipe on its own.
Smooth piping will keep air velocity up.
Ive seen back to back dyno tests and its a matter of a (if memory serves me right) 10whp on a 400whp car.
Ive looked up the results to help you guys more.
This is purely an air filter test.
Intake remained constant and all that is changed was the filter kit and MAF adapter that comes with the filter.
These are just short ram intake there is no intake piping between the MAF and the air filter.
Notice the power at the rpm range of where peak torque is made.
One of the more restrictive filter which was the small half size cone K&N caused more knock so with a tune you cant run as much timing so you are restricted a lil because of the poor air filter choice on such a higher powered car.
Even a certain air filter kit will cause the air fuel ratio to be different.
So further ecu tuning will increase power gains.
So then improved intake piping and higher flowing air filter will improve power.
All you guys with all motor/naturally aspirated cars need everything you can get.
An intake kit can get you 5kwatw on average. You might not even feel that on the butt dyno but use a real dyno or take it to the drag strip and im sure you will see more power and faster times.
Most of the good brand filters out there have close performance when coupled with a good intake piping kit. Its more wise to have better intake piping than to argue just to argue about which filter is the best.
Reducing restriction at the end of the intake pipe also will improve air flow into the engine and increase power. You can do so by using a less restrictive filter with a smooth entry. Some filter have a built in velocity stack too. As I can seen dyno test to show that a a smooth entry will increase power and torque. eg a velocity stack at the end of an intake pipe for a race car will make more power than just having a pipe on its own.
Smooth piping will keep air velocity up.
Ive seen back to back dyno tests and its a matter of a (if memory serves me right) 10whp on a 400whp car.
Ive looked up the results to help you guys more.
This is purely an air filter test.
Intake remained constant and all that is changed was the filter kit and MAF adapter that comes with the filter.
These are just short ram intake there is no intake piping between the MAF and the air filter.
Notice the power at the rpm range of where peak torque is made.
One of the more restrictive filter which was the small half size cone K&N caused more knock so with a tune you cant run as much timing so you are restricted a lil because of the poor air filter choice on such a higher powered car.
Even a certain air filter kit will cause the air fuel ratio to be different.
So further ecu tuning will increase power gains.
So then improved intake piping and higher flowing air filter will improve power.
All you guys with all motor/naturally aspirated cars need everything you can get.
An intake kit can get you 5kwatw on average. You might not even feel that on the butt dyno but use a real dyno or take it to the drag strip and im sure you will see more power and faster times.
Yeah i put the MAF back on, checked all the hosing clamps, i was thinking maybe it wasn't getting enough air down there? i didn't have time to cut a hole in the left hand fog light position. So i just jammed it in the engine bay (i know, superbad idea) but it works fine in there, sadly
k&N do make a pannel for your car, in america they call the lancer a mirage so you need to search mirage on their website this is the part number that i came up with "33-2105"
deathwish
New Member
so ive just bought a new pod filter and i need to box it
i was thinking cut a hole in the origonal air box and have the filter sit inside , while where the pannel was ,just leave it open because it will still close , i really cbf to spend money on this , do you guys think its a good idea ???
i was thinking cut a hole in the origonal air box and have the filter sit inside , while where the pannel was ,just leave it open because it will still close , i really cbf to spend money on this , do you guys think its a good idea ???
if you remove the pannel u will have a massive slot that needs to be filled (where the pannel was)
its possible, but its a big fk around, need to carve out the pannel filter fabric, then it would be right, but u would have no spare pannel filter if u needed it
do u absolutly need it 100% enclosed? maybe just a pod cover will do? they cover about 60-70% of the pod which brings it into legal areas in most cases so long as it is bolted secrely to the chassy
its possible, but its a big fk around, need to carve out the pannel filter fabric, then it would be right, but u would have no spare pannel filter if u needed it
do u absolutly need it 100% enclosed? maybe just a pod cover will do? they cover about 60-70% of the pod which brings it into legal areas in most cases so long as it is bolted secrely to the chassy
i am setting up a CAI simular to the one in first pic on page 1, now this will certainly supply colder air to the throttle body but ? what about the warm water cooling to this body ? would it be better to disconnect this feed so the throttle body would keep abit cooler and maybe also run a soft type ducting pipe towards the phelum intake chamber to keep it slightly cooler as well ? sorry for all the ? s but it seems to me that the CAI is really only supplying cold air as far as the throttle body and not any further. what do you guys think ?
yeh some of us remove the coolant line from the TB and loop it back bypassing the TB, which is what you are talking about, yes it can be done and has been done by matty, john and myself, maybe a few more
as for the duct... i can see it looking silly in the engine bay, and only providing minimal cooling, so looks:gain ratio would be at a loss
also if your feeding fress air up the intake pipe, the pipe will stay rather cool/room temp whereas with a short ram intake your heating your pipe with the hot air and the pipe could get as hot at 60-70* in summer, whereas i recon a CAI pipe woud be alot cooler fromt hat from the cooler air travelling through it
if your super worried about heat in the intake, you can also get themo-block kits, which are gaskets for the intake manifold that block heat from the engine tremendously well
they resist heat up to 300* or something huge like that, but they are for the serious person ~$70 for the gaskets then a pain in the arse job installing them
as for the duct... i can see it looking silly in the engine bay, and only providing minimal cooling, so looks:gain ratio would be at a loss
also if your feeding fress air up the intake pipe, the pipe will stay rather cool/room temp whereas with a short ram intake your heating your pipe with the hot air and the pipe could get as hot at 60-70* in summer, whereas i recon a CAI pipe woud be alot cooler fromt hat from the cooler air travelling through it
if your super worried about heat in the intake, you can also get themo-block kits, which are gaskets for the intake manifold that block heat from the engine tremendously well
they resist heat up to 300* or something huge like that, but they are for the serious person ~$70 for the gaskets then a pain in the arse job installing them
thanks for this info Res. i was more thinking of mounting an oval shaped tube hose line to the underside of bonnet not on top of engine area and the air feed would come from the top small grill on my MR between bonnet and bar. i am sure the top of phelum would run alot cooler when the car is moving, ram air effect.
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