Pod Filters vs Panel Filters for the CE Lancer

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Ryan

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Alright guys post up some well written stuff and ideas and I'll help collate it all into one post to help out all the newbies trying to decide pod vs panel.
The Basics for Induction n00bs:
The Law
Firstly the laws about having a pod filter or aftermarket filter system:

1. It must be securely bracketed to the chassis (this applies for all states)
2. It must be enclosed in either a engine bay box or a pod cover that covers 70% of the pod (as far as i have heard)
(law #2 does not apply in QLD)
Please note that whilst we attempt to give some guidance on here and have taken due care in ensuring information is correct and accurate, please if in doubt confirm for YOURSELF with your local government authorities. AusLancer and it's Administration will accept no liability for information contained within this thread

Pod Filters
Cold Air Intake
Pro's:
*Can give the car a sucking sound under heavy acceleration
*Generally gives the best performance gains

Con's:
*Go through a deep puddle and potentially suck up water
*Legality of these is still very questionable
*Generally the dearest option for induction mods

Short Ram Intake
Pro's:
*Nice throaty engine sound
*Can look good in the engine bay

Con's:
*Generally they suck in hot air and you'll lose performance (hot air is less dense which means less fuel can be injected)
*Generally you'll get worse fuel economy
*95% of the ways people do these are illegal and will earn you a defect and/or fine

Panels Filters
K&N Panels Filters
Pro's:
*Can improve engine note
*Easiest way of modifying your intake
*Relatively cheap and will last forever (just buy the $20 cleaning kit)
*Claims to marginally improve power and engine response

Con's:
*Over-oiling the filter after oiling has been suspected to cause MAF (4G15 lancers don't have one) malfunction

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Various Induction Modification Products For The CE:
1.8L / 4g93 engine

now all the info u need to know on a 1.8L CAI or pod setup
1.8L (4g93) engines have a MAF sensor (mass air flow - sensor) which u need for the car to run (fig.1)
places like Autobarn and supercheap, and sometimes Repco sell adaptor plates which bolt on to the square end of your MAF and give it a round piped end again (fig.2)

Fig.1 (not actual lancer one but looks similar)
BA2400_1.jpg


Fig.2
images.jpg


so basically fistly here is some links to places you can buy setups for the 1.8L lancer (4g93) and a little review on each one

http://members.iinet.net.au/~henry.pham/intakes.html
firstly Hens performance: around about ~$260 with out a doubt the best setup you can get for performance, bolt on, quite strait forward to fit, and comes with everything you need
pipes the pod to behind the left hand fogg light, gets 100% cold air/fresh air
Pro's: gives extra power from cold air, gives a sporty growl to the trottle note and looks very sexy
Con's more expencive pod setup (but you get what u pay for) pipes the pod to a splashable area (fixed by having covered and/or oiled pod)
07092008001.jpg


hens also offer a short ram intake that is enclosed, and if your going to go with a short ram intake i suggest this one
Pro's: very nice throttle note, easy to modify into a CAI should u chose later on (a flexy pipe would do it)
Con's sucks hot air, so you lose a bit of power and use a bit more fuel
DSC02127.jpg



http://www.rpw.com.au/shop/index.php?pa ... t&Itemid=1
RPW (racing performance works): (cost on website) similar kit to hens performance, pipes down to behind bar
Pro's: gives extra power from cold air, gives a sporty growl to the trottle note and looks very sexy
Con's more expencive pod setup (but you get what u pay for) pipes the pod to a splashable area (fixed by having covered and/or oiled pod)


okay thats the end of the 1.8L section but you may want to read on there is plenty of stuff left for you to learn


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1.5L / 4G15l


so your a 1.5L (4g15) lancer driver, here is all you need to know (altho read the 1.8L section aswell for extra info on some things)
1. your car doesnt use a MAF sensor (see 1.8L section for more info)
2. your car uses a MAP sensor instead which isnt on the air intake tube so dont worry about it (its on the plenum or intake manifold which you shouldnt touch)

http://members.iinet.net.au/~henry.pham/intakes.html
firstly Hens performance: around about ~$260 simialr setup to the 1.8 but its a bit cheaper coz we dont have a MAF
Pro's: gives extra power from cold air, gives a sporty growl to the trottle note and looks very sexy
Con's more expencive pod setup (but you get what u pay for) pipes the pod to a splashable area (fixed by having covered and/or oiled pod)
img1265s.jpg


hens also offer a short ram intake that is enclosed, and if your going to go with a short ram intake i suggest this one
Pro's: very nice throttle note, easy to modify into a CAI should u chose later on (a flexy pipe would do it)
Con's sucks hot air, so you lose a bit of power and use a bit more fuel
DSC02127.jpg



http://www.rpw.com.au/shop/index.php?pa ... t&Itemid=1
RPW: offer a quite cheap CAI pipes the pod down to the front bumper, but its cheap coz it doesnt look that fancy, but it does the ob and looks quite STOCK/ oem
Pro's: sporty throttle note, Extra power (cold air), and cheap-ish, easy to fit, looks stock standard
Con's piped pod to a splashable area (pod is already oiled but can be protected even more with a pod filter shield (fig.3 and 4))

Fig.3 and 4

hs_rd4.jpg
63bn0z-390x292.jpg



okay so thats the end of the 4g15 or 1.5L section, please read on for extra info and handy tips you may need

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UNIVERSAL KITS AND PARTS


K&N: they have the APOLLO setup to find it for sale search "k&n apollo" on ebay
these are a very good kit
Pro's: + extra power (cold air), + sporty throttle note, + oiled pod, + convertable to short ram if you so choose (lol) keeps filter away from water
Con's price tag (because of the brand)
RC-5052AB.jpg



another universal kit is this one: (search "pod filter starter kit" on ebay)
Pro's: + minimal gains, + sporty throttle note, + convertable to short ram if you so choose (lol) keeps filter away from water, very cheap
Con's sucks hot air most of the time as filter is exposed in engine bay
redpoddy.png



now for some good cheap pods that are covered
(coz the uncovered pods are easy to find anywhere)

$40 very cheap, buts still good, and covered, +looks pretty nice and easy to convert to CAI with some flexi pipe, search "air ram pod filter" on ebay
coveredpod.png


$35 another cheapy but still a good one, covered, and looks very good, as always easy to convert to CAI later down the track, search ebay "Carbon Fibre Universal Pod Filter"
carbonpod.png


another universal way it to, remove the lower resonators (look for the box(s) infront of your left wheel well) remove them
then pipe a flexi pipe from your front bumper to the stock air box like so
cardizzle380.jpg
cardizzle559.jpg



okay in all seriousness have a look around for other ones, this is ust a guide, there may be one i have missed that may be of use to you

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additional info

here is a handy diagram for you 1.8 users but it also relates to my next topic the "top resonator"
30012009322.jpg


okay see the thing called 'resonator' on the diagram, this is used to dull the sound of the intake, and make it more quiet
it is also speculated that it provides a buffer for a bit better power, but this is so minimal its not funny, so if you so choose it is removable

once you remove it you will have this hole, and then you ask me "wont hot air get in that hole"
to which i say yes! and its very easy to plug, and everyone has the tools
simply get yourself a Coke bottle lid (or any other soft drink bottle lid)
and push lid into hole then tighten clamp around it..... done
P090409_1352.jpg

alternativly you can be cool like i was and use this mini breater and a bit of PVC conduit to make ur intake look a tiny bit cooler
the filter here doesnt do much at all, it really doesnt suck much air to make it worth while, which is why i no longer have it on
just looks cool is all

for removing the lower resonator
which hides infront of your front left wheel well, there is 4-5 bolts quite easy to find and fairly easy to undo
that pulls out the bottom end and leaves a hole to put piping for the CAI down

to remove the stock air box undo the MAP sensor or pipe going to the box, open the latches on the top, pull out the pannel filter
remove the left hand side of the box it just wiggles off some holes, then look into the right hand side of the box there are 3 screws, unscrew them then box comes off... done!

Thats all, hope you got the info you were after, if there is anything i have missed or something you'd like me to add let me know coz this was a bit rushed

Thanks to resuliac for assisting with making this thread.
 
POD filter/CAI: everything u need to know (image heavy)

can a mod plz sticky this thread for pplz info'z
this thread will serve as the "everything u need to know" about POD filters and cold air intakes

firstly the laws about having a pod filter or aftermarket filter system
1. it must be securely bracketed to the chacias (this applys for all states)
2. it must be enclosed in either a engine bay box or a pod cover that covers 70% of the pod (as far as i have heard)
(law #2 does not apply in QLD)


info you should know on the general workings of pod setups/ CAI

1. dont put your pod filter in the engine bay, it will suck hot air which will actually make ur car lose power
HOT AIR = power loss without the cold air intake my sensor recorded a min 30*C to a max of 60+*C (reading taken after car had warmed)

2. the best setups have the pod piped down to behind the front bumper and infront of a grill or fogglight hole, so they get cold air
COLD AIR = added power, the colder the air the mover power gained. average cold air intake gets 12*C min and 30*C max from my sensor over the past 3 months (readings taken after car had warmed)

3. people think that piping your pod down behind the front bar is dangerous as water can get into your intake and seize ur engine
this is a risk, but in reality you have to hit a MASSIVE puddle or go thru a river, and in reality your not stupid enuf to go thru a puddle thats almost up to your door sill
the minimise this risk even more its recomended you get an OILED POD filter and/or buy a cover or one with a cover

4. the standard Air filter system can be converted to a easy and safe CAI for around $20, this is by far the easiest and cheapest way to do it, but it lacks the throttle note and the high flow characteristics of a pod
(ei: the sound you will get from a pod is a growl whereas from this it sounds 'hollow' because of the large air box)
 
oops U_U just realised this after posted mine
mines more comprehencive tho, could copy paste mine into this and delete mine
 
So here's what I'm getting so far... I don't want to spend that much money lol.

Would it be possibly to do this:

1) Remove airbox and associated pipes.
2) Replace with one nice long pipe.
3) Attach end of pipe to Covered Pod into were fog lights go.
4) Replace that plastic *poo* with mesh.
5) Make sure Pod is secure...some how.

Is this legal? Bad sides of this? Any mechanical error on my behalf? I think maybe I don't need to remove all the piping just the air box and continue with new piping?

P.S. I drew you a picture...

P.S.S Will this make my car sound like this Ferrari California I saw down the road?
 
frogot to attach lol, oh one more question... can i sit my pod in the engine bay and attack another pipe to it that connect down in that foggy hole? I think overall my question is... can i just make a really long induction pipe with my pod hanging in cold air? will this work as CAI?
 

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yeh thats legal as long s it is well secured and doesnt bounce around
and it should make for a good system, and will also make it sound very sporty, not quite ferarri but definitly it will have a sporty growl to the throttle
should give moderate gains aswell
 
This is my home made amateur jobbie. It don't look the prettiest but it works well.
dsc00309q.jpg

dsc00307y.jpg


Just with pods...
I started off with one virtually identical to this...
DSC02127.jpg

and I have to say these filters are total crap. They have a tiny filter inside the shielding that doesn't work very well, it does suck hot air & consumes more fuel & they are way too loud so increases your chance of attracting the po po.
Another crap pod to avoid is the Saas one, they are just cheap & don't have the greatest air flow or filtration.
I can't find the link now but did a fair bit of reading & the only pods worth spending coin on are the overpriced K&N ones or what I ended up getting, 3A racing pod which is way cheaper than K&N & work every bit as good.
http://shop.ebay.com.au/i.html?_nkw...+racing&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3286.c0.m270.l1313
Just my 2c worth.
 
Just remember the more corners in the piping system the more air flow restriction.
 
and corrigated flexy pipe causes a bit of turbulance in the air, if ur going for performance u want smoothe mandrel bent intake piping

+ size of the filter matters very little, because unless ur turbocharger or super then ur not going to max out your average pods flow rate
simple as that
 
James Dean said:
nzau wrote:
would putting twin pods in make a even louder sound?




Enough said.

Actually, no, not enough said. That's why I asked. Two speakers show a DB increase, two guitars show a DB increase, etc. Stop being a douche and share your wisdom.
 
Wast of time & $$$ putting 2 on imo. Also think about attracting unwanted attention from the po po, you really don't want the cost & hassle of a defect.
 
nzau said:
Actually, no, not enough said. That's why I asked. Two speakers show a DB increase, two guitars show a DB increase, etc. Stop being a **** and share your wisdom.

Serious post is SERIOUS!!!
No it wont be louder.
Air is being pushed by both your examples, where as an air INTAKE pulls the air in. If you add another filter the same amount of air will be sucked through, thus causing no difference in sound.
When you accelerate the engine pulls in say 50cm3/s (fictional number, i understand this would be a exponential element). So the filter will experience 50cm3/s flowing through this will cause a certain amount of vibration lets call this X. When you have two filters the engine will still suck in 50cm3/s effectively meaning each filter will suck in 25cm3/s. Each would cause X/2 worth of vibration.

Also depending on the placement of the filters, for instance if you have it split like a Y with the filters on each end, this will actually cause the vibrations to be dampened.

I presume we are talking pod filters here, your single pod filter, even if a cheap one from Supercheap auto, isn't being used to its maximum capability, so adding two wont make a different. If you want more intake noise, run it naked, take off the filter.
 
nzau said:
would putting twin pods in make a even louder sound?

been there done that with the Y bend and 2 pods, it reduces low end power massivly

same as having dual thottle bodies without the long duration intake cam, u have too much air going in at
slow velocity but its not all going into the cylinder and out the other end, so it stacks up and creates turbulance in the intake manifold/plenum
which isnt great for getting power unless u have a forced induction system (ie: turbo or supercharger)
 
I would aim for cooler air first, no matter what you choose to deliver it...

Cooler = denser = more bang.

Secondly, any system that adds pressure (like a scoop) will stop the engine vaccuming it's own air (to a very small degree) = more bang.

If you can do this, without having to use a proprietary CAI or new pod, then stick with a panel filter and devise a method of more cooler air to meet with the panel!
 
i wouldnt bother with blox filter stacks, ur just limmiting ur filter options and making ur setup more expencive than it has to be
and its not like the extra flow will really be that much more flow than your average poddy, i can think of better ways that u could improve flow much more substancially than those filters

but if ur keen on that brand, go for it, i see no reason why it wont work if u get the correct size one
 
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