Official too lazy to search, noob friendly thread.
- Thread starter unclepaulie
- Start date
Can be cheap for either. You can get a 4g93t for $800ish, will need to be freshened up most likely though which would be another $200-1000 depending on what needs doing. You can get a 4g93p for about $200-250 but then you have to buy the turbo goodies. Which would be like $300 for the turbo setup, another few hundred for intercooler and piping (also applicable to a 4g93t), a bung welded to a sump for oil return line, oil and water lines, ecu, injectors, dump pipe, full exhaust. And if you turbo a g93p it will still be high comp unless you get a decomp gasket which is another few hundred.
Chum said:
The plugs should run off the wiring from your headlights, usually tucked away either side of the radiator.
Yes you can cut out the blank offs, I did. Many others have too.
If you pull off the front bar to cut out the foot light holes, you should see the fog light cables and plugs fairly easy.
My assumption is you won't have them. However they looms aren't too hard to make up yourself. Just be careful when you're cutting out the holes that you cut less than you need to. I accidentally ruined one of the mounts the first time I cut mine out
lancer1993
Active Member
Where is the clutch reservoir in the CJ, to check the fluid level?
I've easily found the brakes, power steering, radiator and washer (along the bottom in the photo below).
The one on the firewall is for brakes.
I've easily found the brakes, power steering, radiator and washer (along the bottom in the photo below).
The one on the firewall is for brakes.
lancer1993
Active Member
Surely there is an easier way to check the level, someone said the Brake and Clutch share the same reservoir on the CJ, not heard of this before?
hotwyr
Member
As pictured above, the clutch system takes its fluid from the brake master cylinder. If your having issues with pedal feel and travel you can bleed the clutch just keep the fluid level up in the brake resevoir.
Fluid level should be fine as long as you have plenty of fluid in your brake resevoir
Fluid level should be fine as long as you have plenty of fluid in your brake resevoir
Alexemous said:
Theres two main types of spacers. Both can come as hub-centric, meaning they use the centrebore as a centralise mounting point
Slip-On Spacers:
Usually thin metal like you have said. Are usually multi-stud, and can range from 1mm up to 27mm+. Slips on over studs just onto the face of the hub. Ideally you would also get extended length and strength wheel studs to compensate for the reduced turns on the OEM studs due to the spacer.
Bolt-on Spacers:
These are usually a lot thicker than slipons, but for good reason. These use the existing wheel studs, to become bolted-on to the hub and act as a complete addition to the hub. Safer than slipons, but more expensive. As with slipons, its a good idea to also factor in stronger wheel studs to allow for the spacer.
Yes you can make your own slipon spacers. Theres not too much difference between your own DIY slip on spacer and a store bought one, but keep in mind the safety aspect of them. Your $100+ ones are most likely the bolton spacer, and not slip ons unless theyre gold plated or similar
lancer1993
Active Member
I would have thought a DIY spacer would have balancing issues if not made right, thus why you pay $100 for balanced ones.
Clutch feels great, just good to know as I'm planning a long road trip in a few months so it's nice to know just in case something goes wrong. Not that it should.hotwyr said:
