How do u wash your car?

Use wax, carnauba labeled? roughly once a year to form that extra barrier and then follow it with the polymer sealant for that extra gleam and protection, sealing in wax as well, every three or four months.
To date haven't had to strip back extra build up.
 
Don't fancy using slight abrasive once a week for what possibly will be the last car I will ever own in my lifetime At my age, from may be a year to ???
When the peregrine threads and posts come to an end.. But thanks for the thought.
What is needed, Is another really good polymer sealant available through regular retailers, to shake the hell out of the other well Known brands that for whatever reason don't market it in Aus:
Yes New Finish is one Polymer sealant available here and for its price is great but while apparently very popular in the US for some reason is not here and does fall short in some areas.
 
I don't have problems with abrasion, so I don't see the risk. But that's a fair point.
I can source you some polymer we use at work? I'll bring a sample to the meet if you like. You can use it and see how it feels. It's called platinum. It's white when together but goes on kind of clear, easy to see but doesn't stain plastics etc. I've used it on almost every type of car and it suits almost every application. I even use it on Windows exteriors and mirror faces to keep them all protected and free of the 'acid rain' effect. Let me know and I'll put it in a little bottle for you.
 
Thanks Hugh-CE, would be nice, but hope to be there, cant be sure unfortunately. Where can it be purchased from?
 
Hugh - better off just reapplying wax 4 or 5 times over in one hit and use a spray wax whenever you rewash the car just to refill the areas that have come off due to the wash. We dont usually reapply wax for atleast 3 or 4 washes, what type of wax are you using? If its Mother's Carnuaba that stuff is pretty good for the price/where you get it from. Our wax is supposed to last us atleast 100 or 150 cars, its pretty good stuff.. we have used it over 30 or 40 reapplies (including 1 application to a car we did and our one etc) and it doesn't even look like it's moved much at all.

As for abrasion, I would be shocked if you end up scratching your paint with wax/sealant/glaze etc because you should be applying it with a thick applicator pad or a polisher (DA or Rotary.. depending on what you prefer), I would advise against machine with wax but we apply sealants and glazes with machines if we are in a rush or cant be bothered doing it by hand. We are starting to apply our wax's with our own hands because its designed to be capable of doing that, SwissVax I BELIEVE do the same thing if i recall correctly, dont qoute me on that.
 
ahh, ill have to find the brand name. certainly aint mothers, its like $300 a tin. NFI why it's so expensive, probably just the brand. I do it week by week because more often than not with my own car I don't like to spend more than 30-40minutes doing it. So I do it week by week. Some people wash weekly too and I say wax every week early in a cars life and its kind of insured against periods where you don't have time / can't wash it. Yeah there are the hand ones but usually I have about 75 other chemicals on my hands and I'm not willing to risk it on an F430
 
Yeah exactly. Its not a bad thing to keep reapplying each week or whatever, no real big deal to be honest considering it probably offers a bit more protection.

We've actually just started being the only dealer in Adelaide that provides mobile services with Gtechniq ceramic coat - stuff is amazing. Imo, if I were you guys go have a look at Gtechniq and see if theres anyone in your states that do it. We did my word buddies dads car, we dont need to wash it anymore.. just hose the thing down and the water just pulls all the dirt off its insane. Love ceramic coats, plus it has a 7 year warranty.
 
Gtech is a piece of *poo*. I've been selling it to for like 4 years. If anything abrasive touches it, it wares away
 
Okay, Ive been reading this thread trying to figure out what the heck is what. since hugh cleaned up my car months ago, ive been waxing it with nu finish? I do it after ever 2nd wash now it seems okay still silky smooth I from what I can touch.

the black one that I own has swirls how do I get rid of it? im thinking we got it from washing with foam / automatic car washes when the I couldn't be bothered

now my question is why don't you boys like the nu finish? if so what can you recommend for the similar type of $$. just to clear out aswell that I don't own show cars just a bunch of American / british SUV's and my Ce.

paint protection is it worth it?
 
Hand wash is always best, yes automatic car washes from years ago did leave lots of lovely swirls on the paint, fortunately these can be removed with a little effort using the right equipment
Auto car washes do scratch your paint due to the way they work, a lot of people we use to get in at the mates shop most of the time was due to automatic car washes or a crappy buff job.

DONT use waterless no-h20 or something that says it’s a waterless car wash, end up with fine scratches on paint and can cause more problems than they are worth, all they do is place dirt into a towel/sponge that you are running across your paint.

I remember the days long ago when life was simple and uncomplicated, no policys and procedure manuals that we had to follow in our everyday lives doing basic tasks like we have now, we all just used what was known as common sense and just got on with the job.
On the weekends we washed the family car with the whole family helping, even the little kids with sponge in hand, sure they washed the wheels first and missed half the car, but so what we just hosed it off, went over it again and it was all good.
But i don’t remember once in the last 35yrs did i ever hand a procedure manual containing instructions on how to wash daddy’s car.

Meguiar's and Mothers both recommend starting at the top and working down, and a recent online survey on the meguiar’s online forum found the split was almost 60/40, so taking into account the many car detailers that would have polled on there as well, the split could have be closer to 50/50

Yes, the best way is to use 2 buckets with grit guards, clean wheels first ( you will need a cleaner/brush/ IRON-X is good for cleaning off/showing up brakedust), i have a pair of Wolfgang Concours series buckets on castors, for rinse and wash, i use a swissvax washpudel mit(cross between sponge/microfiber) as i like it cause feels like the old sponges did, use a pinnacle or wolfgang shampoo, sometimes use a foam cannon if not in hurry.

When i wash the kids cars (that is the ones that don’t look after their cars) i just use the old sponge and bucket!

I don’t know why Nu-Finish sends shivers down the spine of some car detailers, in reality it was probably one of those cold front’s that they get down the southern states that caused the shivers.
I use nu-finish on the kids cars who are to lazy and don’t care about polising/washing their cars on a regular basis, if you can show me another product that still beads water after 25-30 washes, is UV protected, cost only $15 bottle and doesn’t break down quickly as does most of the cheaper waxes like canubra wax does in the environment, and has a decent shine.
No, it doesn’t give you the best finish available by a long shot, but for the average joe blow/or your lazy kids its quite good.
Nu- finish is easy to apply (kinda like wax on, wax off, without the wax) Only my oldest son and i really care about our cars, the others don’t, i almost have to beg them to wash regularly and polish, i usually get suckered into doing the polishing for them every 3-5 mths anyway (yes not once a year like the bottle says)
So if you have something that’s better for the price ($15), then i will gladly try it if i haven’t tried it already................. let me know

As far as getting the swirls out of your paintwork, its straight forward if you know what you are doing!, can be time consuming and yes you will need some specialized product’s $$$ to do it properly, all of which can be expensive because of initial purchase price.
You can use a “Rotary polisher” but correct technique is most important otherwise you may be worse off.
A lot of “car detailers” say that rotary polishers scare the hell out of them and not to use them ? They view them as “old technology” thats why some off them should never operate machinery that you don’t know how to use correctly, we have been using varible speed rotary polishers/with double lambswool buff’s for over 40 years in my mates custom car / panel & detailing shop with no dramas, and yes you can easily remove swirls with them, in the days gone by we used and still do a versatile product called “Farecla G4” , watered down as required, keep your buff pad clean, use the correct application method and it should be fine, if you’re not sure on any of it, leave it to someone who knows what they are doing, i don’t think anyone can get 100% swirl finish using a rotary polisher, but you can achieve 90-95% on average.

For a 100% swirl free finish, it is achievable using new machines such as “FLEX” orbital/dual action polishers with a 12 / 15mm throw if you are in a hurry, i personally like to use my Concours 908”s” machine with an 8mm throw, it’s a lot slower in terms of area covered, but does just a good as job. Some new machines coming on the market are quite good, such as a new range of “Shine Mate orbital polishers” with load sensing microprocessors, like i said its all money $$$ to buy this gear up front!

There is a huge variety of products/treatments available nowdays, but most range in price from $30-$80 and way beyond, with many more being developed every day, all i can say is try some and hopefully find a product that works for you. I use a few different ones such as Scholl Concepts S20 Black one Step Compound with a scholl concepts blue spider pad for the initial treatment (that is buffing to remove swirls) and then finish with say CarPro Reflect Finishing Polish using a scholl Concepts Gold Spider Pad, that will give you a good depth finish, some other products you can also use are wolfgang total swirl remover / or poorboys SSR-3 swirl remover / others to finish are products made by pinnacle / polish angel / swissvax, these are just a few of the hundreds available in that price range above.

If you want hydrophobic properties (water repellent finish) spray on nova jet / SI or nova pearl, or similar product, like i said everyone has their favourite products they like to use?

At the end of the day if you’re not sure how to use rotary or orbital buff’s/polishers and don’t want to purchase specialized products then it may be cheaper by far to go to a professional car detailer.
 
fudge wagonmaster that is a lot to comprehend at 430 am! and I think your right, I might leave this topic to the very capable hands of hugh!

but before that, the question still remains. is there something better than nu finish for that amount of $$?
 
You know? Probably not hahah. The subi needs a proper cut and polish, that'll get the scratches out.

As for protection like I said earlier it reaaaallly doesn't matter as long as there is something there. I firmly don't believe in a lot paint protections as I've seen and applied them for yonks and you just don't see that same result for as long as they say they do.

I clay bar'd your SUV and put the super carnauba wax on it, which would have lasted. It's good that you've kept protecting it as it'll be forever till it needs a clay again now.

As for the lazy washer between waxes, get on a 'spray wax' they're the kind of thing the auto car washes used to shoot on cars before they were done. Makes the water bead off and provides some
Protection. Doesn't last awfully long but if you're doing it every week / month between proper wax / polish then it will last just as well. I'll keep my eyes peeled on where to source them at a decent price.

I'm glad so many are taking a keen interest in protecting their rides hahaha, it's awesome to see.
 
Wagonmaster, was wondering when you would get into this thread. Wow what a complete and informative response! Cant understand anyone knocking Nu Finnish.

Sure its maybe not the best polymer sealant but it sure as hell is the best value $ wise and the results you get from it are great and anyway its the only polymer based sealant available through general retailers.
I've used it from time to time with no regrets. As the Australian distributers of Meguiar's according to my phone call to them, appear reluctant to import their polymer sealant,
I have now found a polymer sealant even better, even easier to apply and needs to be applied with a hell of a lot less of it (goes a lot further) and while dearer and more difficult to obtain
lasts longer and is well worth it. Fabulous shine, gleam and when wet, water droplets are tiny indicating excellent protection. Rub your hand over it and its smoother than clean glass.
The product I now use is Zaino 2 pro. Lasts 3 to 4 months. PS Can be used on glass to make it smoother easier to clean and more water repellent but suggest you don't use it on your windscreen.
also doesn't send plastic white or harm it.

If you lean against a car that's used it be careful you don't slide off and deservedly get hurt! Hahaha:grinning:
 
fudge wagonmaster that is a lot to comprehend at 430 am! and I think your right, I might leave this topic to the very capable hands of hugh!
but before that, the question still remains. is there something better than nu finish for that amount of $$?

LaNcE, Today at 4:37 AMReport

LaNcE , if their is i haven't come across it yet, heaps of better products, but not for the $$ its had to beat.


Wagonmaster, was wondering when you would get into this thread. Wow what a complete and informative response! Cant understand anyone knocking Nu Finnish.
peregrine, 26 minutes agoReport

Sorry peregrine, i was trying not to reply but over time this particular thread was driving me deeper and deeper into the depth of madness and i just snapped this morning and just went blah blah blah ramble ramble.
 
remember the Black Suv my father in law had? The mrs bought it from them and that's why I jumped in. its really in a poor condition exterior / interior wise that's why I need to fix it up soon..
 
Hugh-CE said:
Gtech is a piece of *poo*. I've been selling it to for like 4 years. If anything abrasive touches it, it wares away
Click to expand...
Really? Interesting.. we've never had an issue with it at all. Might be the way its being applicated or something and not done properly or not being allowed time to set? Thats interesting.

Also, I like my Rupes 21mm throw Big Foot ahahahaha.
 
Wow, you use a Rupes 21mm throw machine, you really must have a lot of fun doing those tight round corners and panel contours and getting in close to the trims on customers cars with your 21mm throw bigfoot machine!

The 21mm throw is good machine but at the end of the day its designed for speed on large panels like car bonnet/roof/boot, and by its very action will not burn the paint, and it’s a good polisher for a young inexperienced car detailer starting off rather than having him learn on a rotary polisher at the customers expense, but its nowhere near as quick as a rotary polisher, which in the hands of someone who has many years of experience of painting and detailing cars, rotary wins hands down every time for speed on those panels.

Most of the top car detailers around the world use a Rotary Polisher or a 21mm throw orbital to cut and then they will finish the paint to perfection with an 8mm RO polisher to remove any holograms or swirls and to achieve a excellent level of gloss and depth in the paint before applying the next 2 or 3 step applications, the 12mm and 15mm RO polishers are also good, we use those as well, but they are more used more for detailing rather than panel shop cutting/polishing.

I have used the panel shops 12mm / 15mm RO polisher’s lots of times on different car’s side panels, but i also like to use the variable speed rotary to cut larger panels then finish where necessary with a 650watt 8mm RO....... :blush: .......
 
I really like to rotary, like you said wagon master it's soooooo much faster. Combination of that and a random orbital - I usually knock out the process is 15/20minutes before I'm blasting all the excess dust off and then finishing / sealing.


It's not how it's applied luftofile, I got trained by the COO from g-tech. Because we were a big company he came out for the roll out. We're the seed trainer store for the country meaning we'd be responsible for teaching the others. It just doesn't last the time it says it does. It could be a poor continuance of care or maybe the specific ones I've seen go to shambles are ones who have some kind of degreaser / harsh soap applied. Which could be the case when the cars been serviced or something. Iunno, just wasn't impressed with what you got for what you paid.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top