engine performance

R

ray

New Member
Hey Guys,
I have a 2000 Lancer 4 door. It has a 4 inch exhaust. I wanna do some performance mods to it but i got no clue/experience about it. I have some knowledge but dont kno how or where to get the mods done and no idea where 2 start etc. Hence i wanna ask da xperts . I am currently thinking of getting a pod filter. Any comments would be helpful.
Thanks
 
What sort of money are you looking at spending?

With the pod filter, you'll have to make sure it's getting 100% cold air from the front of the car (and not hot air from the engine bay) otherwise you'll find that whilst it sounds nice you'll actually lose power. Also you'll probably find that cannon is massively oversiszed and has meant the car lost alot of low-mid torque so changing to a say 2" sports muffler exhaust system with a high flow cat and headers would help.

If the car hasn't had a good service in a while (or if it's new to you and it's service history is dubious) simple things like ditching cruddy standard spark plugs for iridiums will help (if the leads are looking old then I'd ditch them to), as will changing to a decent synthetic oil.

If you've done the basic exhaust and intake mods, then the next best bang for your buck is going to be a decent suspension setup (coilovers if possible) and new rims with decent tyres (16" is probably the biggest you'd want to go if your looking for handling, anything bigger the profile I daresay will be getting too small on the tyres and not be giving optimal grip). You'll find that any engine mods you do wont do much unless you start spending big dollars, but by improving the handling you'd be surprised how much extra speed that'll allow you to hold through twisty roads... Oh and even a simple front pad and slotted rotor change would help out with your braking.
 
Thanks 4 da info Ryan.
I probably wanna spend i guess $200-300 [i guess prolly more later on afta savin up]. The only "mod" i have done is replaced the radiator after it got smashed [i bought the car as it is 4rm a cuzn]. replacing the radiator surprisingly resulted in better performance and louder noise than b4. so that got me thinking that, like u said i could replace some of the old parts. apart from the exhaust and radiator, it is completely standard.
with the air filter, i thot u just replace the standard one with the pod filter and thats it. with getting the cold air,how will i do that? (do u mean like thru the bonnet scoop?; i have a standard non-evo bonnet but looking 4 an evo5/6 one.) . also what about a cold air intake? is that similar 2 da pod filter?
with servicing, i service my baby regularly (every 6mths or so). i guess i can ask them to put the performance oil in or sumthin. also i use bp unleaded petrol. i alredy hav 16s on my car-> i was thinkin of getting bigger rims but u say 4 per4mance, 16s are good so proly stick wit 'em.

lastly, in the last sentence u mentioned the brakes. well i am getting my servicing done prolly this week 4rm midas so kud u explan dat so i can mention it to them

in the end i wanna make my car fast and sound really sweet......

my car sounds similar 2 this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B--FwvKLms0
 
Ryan said:
With the pod filter, you'll have to make sure it's getting 100% cold air from the front of the car (and not hot air from the engine bay) otherwise you'll find that whilst it sounds nice you'll actually lose power.
Click to expand...

take this advice seriously, ppl dont realise how much power they actually lose from hot air, 100% hot air loses u like 5kws and 100% cold air gains u about 2-7kws depending on ur setup

for a good pod setup set it up like one of these:
this one is a bit of work, u relocate the battery, box in a pod filter and keep the front open so it gets the cold air coming over the headlight,
http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/9329/i ... 201548.jpg

straight up piped to a pod filter down behind the bumper, Iced (henry) on mlga sells this kit for around $250, but its worth it, just watch out for puddles
http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/5416/img1493wr.jpg

this is my setup, fully enclose pod in the engine bay, snorkel down to the front grill, cost $150 very good kit for cost, and its a k&n filter (which is top of the line)
you will need to remove the lower resonator for this, which is easy and the resonator is a useless plastic box, a few bolts and its off (located under ur stock filter box infront of ur front left tyre)
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a134/ ... CF5605.jpg


easiest setup: josh has this one, keep ur factory airbox, either upgrade to a k&n pannel filter (cost ~$100) and remove the useless resonator, then use a $20 flexi pipe from autobarn to pipe it to your grill, optionally add funnel to the end for better air gain at speeds
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p253 ... zle559.jpg
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p253 ... zle380.jpg


so yeh that covers most of the ways u can do it, the more cold air it gets the better gains u will get

also get extractors (cost $450 but are so worth it) extractors replace the exhaust manifold (bit at front of ur engine that continues to ur cat-pipe-muffler) extractors give way better flow

other easy things, remove the coolant lines from ur thottle body, they heat up the throttle with hot coolant (to prevent freezing the TB in icey countries) which heats up the air going into ur engine
u basically just loop the coolant line back into the motor

ontop of that upgrade ur thottle body, well worth power mod

peace out
 
with the pod filter, i am guessin' itz not as easy as getting one and slapping it on. hence to get a good set up (i.e pod filter+some way to get cold air to it etc) -> where can i get it done and how?
moreover i like the setups shown by resuliac. in regards 2 legality, i hav my full licence but my cuzns got green ps, so will this pod filter setup defect my car?

thanks alot 4 da great advice guys ;)
 
where do u live? (what state) as your state determines the laws on how u can set up ur intake

if your not really confident in putting one on ur car i sugest josh's setup which i outlined above^^
resuliac said:
easiest setup: josh has this one, keep ur factory airbox, either upgrade to a k&n pannel filter (cost ~$100) and remove the useless resonator, then use a $20 flexi pipe from autobarn to pipe it to your grill, optionally add funnel to the end for better air gain at speeds
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p253 ... zle559.jpg
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p253 ... zle380.jpg
Click to expand...

basically go to a auto parts store (ie: supercheap, autobarn, repco) ask for a "K&N pannel filter" and they will ask you what car its for and what year etc... it'll cost ~$100, but its a filter that lasts for life
then remove the lower resonators located infront of ur left hand front wheel, get under the car, see a black box, remove that, there are a few tricky bolts but overall relativly easy
then you should have a large hole near ur Air box in the engine bay, which u can put a flexi pipe (autobarn $20) and pipe it from ur airbox to the front bumper (even better if u can face the opening of the pipe in an open grill at the front)

then secure the pipe so it doesnt flick around alot etc.... done, easy cheap and gives just as good performance as a pod setup,
the more u fit the piping into the air box and seal it the more cold air u will get (more cold air = better gains)
 
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nsw[westmead]. i think getting the pod filter will be easy. with installing it can just get the filter n pipe and ask some mechanic or sumthin to set it up [i m getting my car serviced 4rm midas, maybe they kud do the setup]?

anyway thanks alot 4 da great info.
 
Pods in NSW are a defect (unless they are in a fully enclosed and can also land you a $84 ticket. Honestly unless you are keen on building a box and setup, then just slap a K&N panel filter in and leave it at that, it'll be cheaper and keep you out of trouble with the cops.....
 
ah well in nsw ur pod will have to be fully enclosed and bracketed to the cars chassy so it doesnt wobble around thats the law

i wouldnt bother getting midas to do it, its really easy to do, + doing it urself gives u satasfaction, u kno how well the job has been done + u will learn (thats why ur here isnt it)
its very easy, not worth the $$$ on getting a mechanic to do it
but its ur choice in the end
 
is there anything in the resonator? just curious been wondering how ima put the cai into the new panel filter if its a usless box ill get rid of of it straight away
 
The resonator has something to do with smoothing out the air pulses and buffeting in the intake.

Not really sure how the CE responds to it being removed, but on my CJ I replaced my stock intake which has a resonator with the large Ralliart Lancer one which doesnt have a resonator and it seems to have better throttle response according to my butt dyno...
 
i don't usually involved in these talks about intakes and such, but i thought i would mention that a while ago hot4s tested the effectiveness of the resonator on a mirage. using a dyno to test their results, they found that completely removing the resonator actually robbed the car of power. they also tested with all sorts of sizes (even using a coke bottle). i couldn't remember the results but i think it was a resonator off a h22a prelude that yielded the optimal results on the mirage.

my point.. all the parts of your engine is part of a delicate balance. without using a dyno to prove any "mods" that you do, more often that not you're disturbing that balance and doing more harm than good. i don't care what people say, when someone tells me their car "feels" like it has 4kw more, i call bullshit.. or rather it's the placebo effect. bottom line, if mitsubishi put something there, it's there for a reason. sure, sometimes they restrict something for emissions purposes and removing those restrictions can yield some gains. but don't just tinker without properly understanding what it is you're doing. just coz someone "heard" something doesn't make it true. if i told you that pissing in your radiator is actually a more effective coolant, would you do it?

anyways, end of rant here. carry on.
 
damn u service your car every 6 months? that's very regularly.. lol ive done 3 in the last 6 months.... do a service every 5000 kms...


and damn l2english
 
I had a feeling I had read about that dyno test with and w/o the resonator on the CE but I wasn't sure.

The CJ though definitely seems to benefit from replacing with a bigger cold air intake though because it runs extremely rich and the intake leans it out a bit... (RPW got something like a 5kW gain on the dyno using a generic K&N Apolo enclosed pod filter kit, but now people discovered the RA intake fits on the N/A CJs and are cheaper with similar benefits, so people tend to go for these now. When I had a RRM Short Ram Intake (short length of aluminium pipe with a pod) there was a noticeable difference in engine response, to the point you didn't need a dyno to figure out once the stock intake went back on it was running significantly better (due to no heat soak)...

Nothing wrong either with the average person servicing their car every 6 months (asssuming you're not travelling more than 5000-7500km in that time), alot of people don't service for 12months or 10,000/15,000km... Comparing a worked Civic which revs to 8000odd RPM to a near stock daily run-a-bout lancer is a little bit different too....
 
ive gone from normal oil to fully synthetic and noticed a huge difference in engines willingness to rev up and seems to go quite a bit harder through the hills and seems to run a lot nicer when everythings getting hot ...definately recommend you do pod / panel filter, spark plugs, new oil...
 
Sorry drakos, I don't want this to sound harsh but I call bullsh!t on that. Someone once went on and on to me about how good their oil was, with all sorts of claims of extra kws. So I decided to give it a go. Now, this was straight after a dyno tune on my first turbo conversion. My car had fresh cheap $20 repco oil in it with $10 worth of treatment. We dropped the oil, put in the $140 worth of this "special" oil in. Then we put it on the dyno and... Nothing. Not even an extra half a kw.

Take my example how you will, your mileage may vary. Now the are other things that good oil does and I'm not challenging things like it's protective properties, but claims of more power, in my case, was quite bs.
 
Search Youtube, there's a video on there between a few of the different oils and dyno runs in an Evo and a HSV, surprisingly there was differences in power. At the end of the day a synthetic oil has a significantly lower coefficient of friction and forms a 'stronger' film on surfaces. If you reduce friction that means less wear in the motor and as a result less power being lost as heat from the friction between the moving surfaces in the engine. Not to mention that a more viscous oil will take more energy to be pumped and forced through the key ways,etc around the motor, which will in turn put resistance on the oil pump robbing the engine of power. So yes a power increase is very plausible, how much so of an increase well that's anyone's guess.

My engine runs alot smoother on synthetic oils as does everyone I know that's made the switch from mineral to synthetic oils. I'm not going to say how much of a difference it makes in terms of power, but you can definitely notice a difference in the fuel economy and running of the motor. Even my gf thought it was bullshit until I switched her car recently over to 10W-40 synthetic oils.

Oh and it's a well-known fact that even your choice in oil will play a part in fuel economy...

Beleive it or not, but it's like the whole alternator debate, some people would argue straight for ages that your alternator has no affect on power or fuel economy...
 
power gains in evos and hsvs.. highly plausible. power gains in ce lancers.. well, still have my doubts that any differences would be significantly "felt" by a driver. and really, that's all i'm saying. i am definitely not saying you should not use good oil.

you have your youtube videos, i have my past experience. i guess we will just have to agree to disagree. but, what would i know, i'm just an IT geek at the end of the day. i'm also a skeptical bastard and i question everything people tell me - unless i know and trust the source (and even then, i can have my doubts).

at the end of the day, people should take my opinion with a grain of salt. my knowledge of na lancers is minimal. i turbo'd my lancer faster than you can say "what's a bov?". and in the time my lancer was stock it was always on fully synthetic so i've never experience "the switch". i did spend a good chunk of my 20s in workshops and on dynos, but these workshops don't "bother" with lancers unless they come with an evo badge.

not wanting to sound pretentious, but mods in the league of 2-5kw gains don't interest me, which is why i say my knowledge in this area is minimal. so yea, like i said, take my opinion with a grain of salt - unless of course, you're interested in building stupidly powerful, turbo-charged beasts of a machine - then i might know a thing or two. :D
 
i dont believe there si a differenc between oils really (performance wise)

lol every 6 months service is bad i probably service mine every 2 months 5,000kms, not as bad as my other friend tho, he thinks coz he uses "genuine" nissan oil in his maxima that he only nees to service it every 100,000kms... i mean come on thats gotta kill ur car

from experience of having every kind of intake imaginable on my car bar the full stainless piped one, i think the lower resonators dont do sh*t, the higher resonator on the other hand is good at dampening the thottle sound and maybe good for +1kw
for pest performance from ur intake on an NA car (non-turbo car) get an intake setup that is 100% enclosed from engine bay and gets air forced up the piping by the movemnt of the car
eliminates the risk of water and heat soak and provides really good performance, i have had 5 or 6 different setups and this was by far the best
 
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