CE Lancer Possible Engine Conversions
- Thread starter denemay
- Start date
if u want to run a t25/8 this manifold is great
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbo-Exhaus ... 4173a53694
yezz is running this one at the moment, its cheap its a log style and cast so its not going to crack easy, and it has a built in external gate port
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbo-Exhaus ... 4173a53694
yezz is running this one at the moment, its cheap its a log style and cast so its not going to crack easy, and it has a built in external gate port
sebastiandivita
New Member
Res said:
Wow this is fantastic and cheap ! im liking this ! Thanks heaps for the link !
Keep in mind, its highly unlikely you can use the stock T28 wastegate, cost in the price of an external wastegate aswell.
BrentonsCE
Member
Upon the same subject who is the best member to ask for a list of parts required to turbo the 4g93 as i am rebuilding my spare engine turbo ready so when time comes swap engines and put turbo conversion straight in to save time off the road so i know i need the manifold ,t25/8 turbo and from what i have seen in other threads it looks like a evo 4/5 ic what else is required (ecu upgrade obviously)
BrentonsCE
Member
Thanks i must of missed it when flicking through threads last night
BrentonsCE
Member
I re looked this morning and dont know how i missed it 
joel_aiken
New Member
hit up *************
don't.
and going dohc and mivec is a waste of time and money unless you're completely replacing the engine. i know as i've been doing a ton of research on this for the past month, just turbo the sohc. if you want more power then new cam, and more aggressive tune, maybe run e85.
and going dohc and mivec is a waste of time and money unless you're completely replacing the engine. i know as i've been doing a ton of research on this for the past month, just turbo the sohc. if you want more power then new cam, and more aggressive tune, maybe run e85.
Just thought Id mention the option I went with. You could try the 4G69 2.4L Mivec out of the CH Lancer VRX. You can check out my thread here for more information about it. If you have a stock mirage and do the 4g69 motor, 2.5inch exhaust, 3inch intake, standalone computer with a tune you WILL do a mid to high 13 on street tyres with stock suspension consistently. Ive proven it many times. Its awesome to have an NA option like this to compete with the Honda guys.
viewtopic.php?f=23&t=4592
Hope that helps.
viewtopic.php?f=23&t=4592
Hope that helps.
Here are some tips relating to putting a 4G63 into a CE Chassis. This was posted by a user called - matrox - from the miragelancer.com forum in 2008.
There are pictures that go with this text but its only shots of the halfcut and stuff, if you really really want them PM me. Other then that, the following is plenty.
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OK, if your really serious about this.... shop around for your front cut, I only paid $2500 for the front and $1 :shock: lol, for the rear cut (wrecker had no need for it, just taking up space) Research is the key before you attempt to start a project like this. Ive had mine for a while though but you sure you want to do this as its pretty full on. Anyway, I tracked down a cheap cut, hired a flat truck with some mates and took a trip to pick it up. If that’s the prices you found, id keep trying dude cause that’s just a rip off.
Before you start anything, Id suggest you find a Mitsubishi CAPS program. I must stress that unless you want the car off the road for a year, you need to act quickly to find a part, especially at a workshop. the CAPS program (like what the spare parts bloke uses at Mitsubishi) has all the part numbers you need. Its a great tool so that you can start collecting what you require. The bible is the Mitsubishi Technical Information Manual.
- Try to steer clear of evo 4 engines if you can as many can have crankwalk which can end up costing you another 1k to fix. Evo 6 was a better engine.
Look around as some cuts have fantastic goodies as mine did. A cut with a $2000 radiator, HKS coilovers etc means you can strip and sell to pay for other items if you require them.
- Find bargains from sites like ebay & http://www.trademe.co.nz. Don’t limit yourself to Australia as ive had to search from the UK, Japan and NZ to get the parts I need. You'd be surprised how cheap some items can be. Example, I bought my first set of evo6 oz racing rims for $200 with rubber and my evo 8 brembos for $350 (full set). Also lurk through evo forums in the for sale section.
Kempys in NZ is also a good place to start.
- Find a reputable workshop who can do the work you cant. Ive got a knack for finding items quickly & cheaply but suck at welding so I listened to JB & Marc and went to Meek Automotive in Sydney. Im sure there’s a workshop up in Qld that someone can recommend. I cant disclose the price I paid for my install as that’s just unfair to the workshop who helped me through the process. Prices change and that’s something you'd have to negotiate with people directly. I was the oddball in that there’s only 4 sedans that I know of in Australia that have been converted completely to evo spec. Could be more but its hard to tell once there kitted. A few coupes and some mirages coming out lately which is bloody cool. Dye-04 is a 4g63t 2wd mirage, ask him about his setup.
Basically in a nutshell, the rear on the CE sedan is very close to the Evo4,5,6 bar the boot pan. A section needs to be cut up and grafted to your car to support the cradle, diff, control arms etc. so ensure this part is not damaged on your rear cut as that’s the most important piece. Just because the body is similar doesnt mean the grafting process is easy though.
This was the only structural body section required for the sedan. I also got the front gusset plates on the firewall (very important as the flex in the body from extra power can warp & crack your firewall) and the V brace behind the rear seat. I don’t know about QLD rules but engineers in NSW seem to look for this.
At this stage, most rear cuts have rooted fuel tanks from forklifts in Japan. These are near impossible to import unless near or with a cut therefore you need to make a contacts list. these blokes I dealt with don’t sell for a living but have spares that they might part with. I cant just give out there details and I know it sounds like im a prick but I had to ask around and do the dirty work myself and don’t expect lazy people to just make a call. if anyone is really, really stuck, of course id help though.
Front section should be a piece of piss compared to the rear, bolt in with some mods. Both bodies share some mounting holes but dont think the evo is basically a sedan on a *poo* load of steroids. It shares a lancer badge and has a few bits of the interior, thats where it ends. This isnt a case of if it smells like *poo*.......
Engine wise, I cant believe how stupid people can be to not replace parts with new once the motor is out. If someone doesn’t change the basics because of being tightarses like belts, water pump etc, they deserve the *poo*ty motor they will inherit.
Lastly, If you want a Evo 6 widebody, that’s another story which I can explain with pics...if not, go for the evo 4 suspension gear however note that should you ever wish to use brembos, your wheels will rub badly with the 17 rims due to the rear offset, even in Evo 4 which is slightly wider in track than the standard lancer.
hope ive made some sense. I could go for hours trying to explain the exact process but its too hard to type.
If you do decide to do this, once you go to 4WD, you never go back, trust me. Im so fu*king happy i decided to go the whole way. I mean, LSD for the fronts is an option but if you really want to take on the full potential of the evo package, the extra price is justified when you can take a corner in the wet like skids on the toilet bowl and take offs are sharp.
In the end, if i had to do it again, I would as my situation was different as I stockpiled parts since 1999 and had personal reasons but my advice to anyone else, unless your prepared to find everything yourself, research religiously and have $$$ to spare and spend quickly, id save for the real evo and be happy with your daily driver or consider a 6a12 FTO engine.
Each to there own, no one has the right to say do it or dont as we all have different circumstances, tastes and goals. The choice is yours. My advice would be to weigh up the costs for you compared to a real evo or reshell build and speak to a workshop. really consider the 6a12 though & keep your options open. (i said it again hint.)
********************************************************************************
There are pictures that go with this text but its only shots of the halfcut and stuff, if you really really want them PM me. Other then that, the following is plenty.
*********************************************************************************************************************************
OK, if your really serious about this.... shop around for your front cut, I only paid $2500 for the front and $1 :shock: lol, for the rear cut (wrecker had no need for it, just taking up space) Research is the key before you attempt to start a project like this. Ive had mine for a while though but you sure you want to do this as its pretty full on. Anyway, I tracked down a cheap cut, hired a flat truck with some mates and took a trip to pick it up. If that’s the prices you found, id keep trying dude cause that’s just a rip off.
Before you start anything, Id suggest you find a Mitsubishi CAPS program. I must stress that unless you want the car off the road for a year, you need to act quickly to find a part, especially at a workshop. the CAPS program (like what the spare parts bloke uses at Mitsubishi) has all the part numbers you need. Its a great tool so that you can start collecting what you require. The bible is the Mitsubishi Technical Information Manual.
- Try to steer clear of evo 4 engines if you can as many can have crankwalk which can end up costing you another 1k to fix. Evo 6 was a better engine.
Look around as some cuts have fantastic goodies as mine did. A cut with a $2000 radiator, HKS coilovers etc means you can strip and sell to pay for other items if you require them.
- Find bargains from sites like ebay & http://www.trademe.co.nz. Don’t limit yourself to Australia as ive had to search from the UK, Japan and NZ to get the parts I need. You'd be surprised how cheap some items can be. Example, I bought my first set of evo6 oz racing rims for $200 with rubber and my evo 8 brembos for $350 (full set). Also lurk through evo forums in the for sale section.
Kempys in NZ is also a good place to start.
- Find a reputable workshop who can do the work you cant. Ive got a knack for finding items quickly & cheaply but suck at welding so I listened to JB & Marc and went to Meek Automotive in Sydney. Im sure there’s a workshop up in Qld that someone can recommend. I cant disclose the price I paid for my install as that’s just unfair to the workshop who helped me through the process. Prices change and that’s something you'd have to negotiate with people directly. I was the oddball in that there’s only 4 sedans that I know of in Australia that have been converted completely to evo spec. Could be more but its hard to tell once there kitted. A few coupes and some mirages coming out lately which is bloody cool. Dye-04 is a 4g63t 2wd mirage, ask him about his setup.
Basically in a nutshell, the rear on the CE sedan is very close to the Evo4,5,6 bar the boot pan. A section needs to be cut up and grafted to your car to support the cradle, diff, control arms etc. so ensure this part is not damaged on your rear cut as that’s the most important piece. Just because the body is similar doesnt mean the grafting process is easy though.
This was the only structural body section required for the sedan. I also got the front gusset plates on the firewall (very important as the flex in the body from extra power can warp & crack your firewall) and the V brace behind the rear seat. I don’t know about QLD rules but engineers in NSW seem to look for this.
At this stage, most rear cuts have rooted fuel tanks from forklifts in Japan. These are near impossible to import unless near or with a cut therefore you need to make a contacts list. these blokes I dealt with don’t sell for a living but have spares that they might part with. I cant just give out there details and I know it sounds like im a prick but I had to ask around and do the dirty work myself and don’t expect lazy people to just make a call. if anyone is really, really stuck, of course id help though.
Front section should be a piece of piss compared to the rear, bolt in with some mods. Both bodies share some mounting holes but dont think the evo is basically a sedan on a *poo* load of steroids. It shares a lancer badge and has a few bits of the interior, thats where it ends. This isnt a case of if it smells like *poo*.......
Engine wise, I cant believe how stupid people can be to not replace parts with new once the motor is out. If someone doesn’t change the basics because of being tightarses like belts, water pump etc, they deserve the *poo*ty motor they will inherit.
Lastly, If you want a Evo 6 widebody, that’s another story which I can explain with pics...if not, go for the evo 4 suspension gear however note that should you ever wish to use brembos, your wheels will rub badly with the 17 rims due to the rear offset, even in Evo 4 which is slightly wider in track than the standard lancer.
hope ive made some sense. I could go for hours trying to explain the exact process but its too hard to type.
If you do decide to do this, once you go to 4WD, you never go back, trust me. Im so fu*king happy i decided to go the whole way. I mean, LSD for the fronts is an option but if you really want to take on the full potential of the evo package, the extra price is justified when you can take a corner in the wet like skids on the toilet bowl and take offs are sharp.
In the end, if i had to do it again, I would as my situation was different as I stockpiled parts since 1999 and had personal reasons but my advice to anyone else, unless your prepared to find everything yourself, research religiously and have $$$ to spare and spend quickly, id save for the real evo and be happy with your daily driver or consider a 6a12 FTO engine.
Each to there own, no one has the right to say do it or dont as we all have different circumstances, tastes and goals. The choice is yours. My advice would be to weigh up the costs for you compared to a real evo or reshell build and speak to a workshop. really consider the 6a12 though & keep your options open. (i said it again hint.)
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