4g94 swap for 4g69

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Deano

New Member
Hey guys and gurls! I'm fairly new to cars still and about to do an engine swap after my timing belt slipping in my 2004 CH ES lancer with a 4g94 in it.. So a legend of a friend has giving me a 4g69 out of a 2005 CH ES lancer.. My question for you gods of the lancers, how hard is this going to be? I expect it to take awhile and I have the patience and time on my hands, (money not so much).

I have the 4g69 and gearbox but nothing else really.
Will the 94 ECU work? I'm like 99.99% sure the loom is going to be different because MIVEC.
What about mounts? will I be able to re-use the 94 mounts on the 69? is the fuel pump different?

I'm doing the entire swap outside, no work shop. its just myself, a bunch of tools, youtube and lancer forums.

Plox send halp.
 
Hey mate, good on you for having a go!

You will need:
-4G69 Motor and Box complete assembly
-All 4 4G69 Motor Mounts (i will confirm via part numbers soon)
- Engine ECU to match the motor
- Engine wiring harness
- Keys to match the ECU
- 3x Door Locks to match ECU
- Ignition Barrel to match ECU
- All hoses that come off the motor and its accessories.

You may need new A/C lines, new radiator coolant lines and a new fuel feed line/line end.

You will need to keep the exhaust manifold and complete intake system.

The wiring might be a bit of a mess if you only take the engine loom. The 05 will have ABS, unlikely your 04 does.
 
Thanks man!
I'll be keeping updates on the build when I have something to report, going to take awhile from the looks of things.
As for the aircon, going to be removing that because race car the daily..
as for the transmission, can I use the 94 CVs and stuff on the 69?
 
Deano said:
Thanks man!
I'll be keeping updates on the build when I have something to report, going to take awhile from the looks of things.
As for the aircon, going to be removing that because race car the daily..
as for the transmission, can I use the 94 CVs and stuff on the 69?
Click to expand...

I think the CV's will be the same, but the driveshafts may be different lengths. Can't find information on the G69 driveshafts as Mitsubishi never sold the CH with 2.4L in Japan and all my references only link to Japanese models. Maybe a case of trial and error? Even just have a look to see if they're even similar
 
You will also need the throttle pedal assembly as I believe 4G69 is fly-by-wire and 4G94 is cable
 
Update: Old engine is slowly coming out, didnt realize how much crap was involved in removing the loom.. found out my fuse box has ABS but of course my car doesnt have ABS.
hit a couple problems as one would when they decide to do their first ever engine swap, like, how the *fudge* do you get to the starter motor part of the loom as thats the last bit still connected on the engine side of the loom.
I'll have a list of stuff thats been done, needs to be done, parts list, and how many times I've said "Why the *fudge* am I doing this".
42576583_619703845094192_1314660502571319296_n.jpg
 
Update.
Removal has been on a standstill for this week, require a couple tools I have some how lost. oh and of course this *fudge*ing rain I've had this weekend isn't helping at all.
Engine mounts you only need to get a front mount and right mount, the rest of them will fit the 69 and 94 engines.
Drive shafts are going to need replacing, regardless if I could use them (no you cannot use a 94 drive shaft in a 69).
As for the keys and key barrels stuff, it possible to just have your key flashed to suit the 69 ecu, roughly the same price if not cheaper for a key flash than it is for a new key kit.
 
It may be possible to edit the imob code in the ecu. I know its possible with 4G94 ecu to change the code or remove the imob entirely. You would need ecu flash and a tactrix.
 
Hi Deano, how did you go mate?

I did my first engine swap 1 year ago (almost exactly), on the same engine and same car, same colour even!!
BUT I was ditching my old 4G94 for a another 4G94, direct swap. Same for same, since I had never done it before.
Even then I till had my own, "why the fudge am I doing this" moments.
But I can say, huge feeling of accomplishment when it was done, and we have just ticked over 15K kms on the replacement engine with zero issues.

After I completed that, I started to think about more performance based engine swaps, once this car is no longer the one we need to relay on for our general family transportation.
So I was thinking a 4G69 myself.
Keen to hear how you get on mate.
 
Hey guys I am doing a Cg lancer vrx swap for the 4g69 since I blew the rods on my 94, I bought the entire car with the 69 in it for 500$ so I pretty much have everything needed for the swap, just wondering if anyone knows much about the wiring part of things, will I need an adapter for the 69 wiring loom to fit, is it just straight drop in, never done a engine swap myself but I have basic knowledge of what to do, any help would be much appreciated
 
Hi Sam,

Hi commented on this thread back at the end of 2018. I had just completed a same for same engine swap on my CH Lancer. That was a 4G94. Pretty easy as far as engine swaps go. It was an automatic as well so no clutch to deal with.
All pretty standard.

In September last year I actually blew that motor up. So I went down the route of finding a donor car. I found a crash damaged low kms manual 2007 CH Lancer with the 4G69 in it. I was able to completely disassemble the 2007 donor and bolt literally everything into my 2003.
Well, of course the wiring looms were different because one was automatic and one was manual. Also, the engine and interior wiring harnesses were different as well.
So I ended up just literally taking everything and putting it in the other car.
I don’t think you’re going to be able to use your existing wiring harness at all, unless you’re willing to splice it, and stuff that job!
You will also need the ECU, and keys, ignition barrel which is mounted to the steering column, door key barrels and boot key barrel.
Of course check for ABS as well my donor had ABS and my original car didn’t. So I had to swap out all of the brake lines, the ABS module, the hubs and knuckles, front and rear.
Also the fuel systems were different. My original fuel system was a return system, and the new one was a non-return so I ended up switching out the fuel tank, the fuel lines, the charcoal canister, everything. It was a big job, but worth it for me. It wasn’t financially worth it at all LOL. But, it was a sentimental car for us and we wanted to keep it.

I also did a full interior swap.
Since the new car had so little kilometres on it (76,000), everything was in better condition than my original car which had 370,000 km on it. So it was in my interest literally changes as much as I could to get more use out of the newer parts.

I just got the car back on the road at the start of May. Having a little bit of difficulty with the clutch being too hard for some reason. Haven’t worked that out yet but everything else is working wonderfully.
 
Nathan Wallace said:
Hi Sam,

Hi commented on this thread back at the end of 2018. I had just completed a same for same engine swap on my CH Lancer. That was a 4G94. Pretty easy as far as engine swaps go. It was an automatic as well so no clutch to deal with.
All pretty standard.

In September last year I actually blew that motor up. So I went down the route of finding a donor car. I found a crash damaged low kms manual 2007 CH Lancer with the 4G69 in it. I was able to completely disassemble the 2007 donor and bolt literally everything into my 2003.
Well, of course the wiring looms were different because one was automatic and one was manual. Also, the engine and interior wiring harnesses were different as well.
So I ended up just literally taking everything and putting it in the other car.
I don’t think you’re going to be able to use your existing wiring harness at all, unless you’re willing to splice it, and stuff that job!
You will also need the ECU, and keys, ignition barrel which is mounted to the steering column, door key barrels and boot key barrel.
Of course check for ABS as well my donor had ABS and my original car didn’t. So I had to swap out all of the brake lines, the ABS module, the hubs and knuckles, front and rear.
Also the fuel systems were different. My original fuel system was a return system, and the new one was a non-return so I ended up switching out the fuel tank, the fuel lines, the charcoal canister, everything. It was a big job, but worth it for me. It wasn’t financially worth it at all LOL. But, it was a sentimental car for us and we wanted to keep it.

I also did a full interior swap.
Since the new car had so little kilometres on it (76,000), everything was in better condition than my original car which had 370,000 km on it. So it was in my interest literally changes as much as I could to get more use out of the newer parts.

I just got the car back on the road at the start of May. Having a little bit of difficulty with the clutch being too hard for some reason. Haven’t worked that out yet but everything else is working wonderfully.
Click to expand...
Man that’s so cool, really good seeing people work on these cars man, but I’m not going to use abs just because of the extra effort as I’ve had this car out of commission for a while now so I don’t really want to do all the extra work of changing brake lines and all of that for the and system. Is there a way to bypass it at all? Can I just splice the abs wire and close it off? Also both my 94 n 69 are manual aswell I’ve got all key barrels, and so I’d really just have to change over my fuel line systems correct?
 
Yeah, that’s a difficult one. I am not a mechanic, but I can change parts!
I work as a refrigeration mechanic so I’m quite mechanically minded, but when it comes to diagnosing issues or figuring out what you can and can’t do, I have no idea. I will assume that you can’t just cut the wire out of the loom. You have to use the new ECU, because of the key immobiliser in the steering column and all the bits and pieces for the engine itself, and the fact that the 4G69 is a flyby wire accelerator and not a cable like the 4G94 (oh yeah, that’s something else you’ll need to change, the whole accelerator pedal assembly). That ECU is going to be looking for the ABS module. If you just cut it out of the wiring loom, I’m pretty sure it’s gonna bring up some error codes and the check engine light or the ABS light all the time (which is going to create problems if you ever need to get a roadworthy certificate).
Don’t quote me though. This is where you would really need to speak to somebody who has some auto electrician experience.
Just for your knowledge, everything just bolted in. Literally single thing bolted in perfectly to the chassis.
 
Nathan Wallace said:
Yeah, that’s a difficult one. I am not a mechanic, but I can change parts!
I work as a refrigeration mechanic so I’m quite mechanically minded, but when it comes to diagnosing issues or figuring out what you can and can’t do, I have no idea. I will assume that you can’t just cut the wire out of the loom. You have to use the new ECU, because of the key immobiliser in the steering column and all the bits and pieces for the engine itself, and the fact that the 4G69 is a flyby wire accelerator and not a cable like the 4G94 (oh yeah, that’s something else you’ll need to change, the whole accelerator pedal assembly). That ECU is going to be looking for the ABS module. If you just cut it out of the wiring loom, I’m pretty sure it’s gonna bring up some error codes and the check engine light or the ABS light all the time (which is going to create problems if you ever need to get a roadworthy certificate).
Don’t quote me though. This is where you would really need to speak to somebody who has some auto electrician experience.
Just for your knowledge, everything just bolted in. Literally single thing bolted in perfectly to the chassis.
Click to expand...
Thanks man I really appreciate your input, it’s helped me confirm a lot of things I was having trouble with, but I think I might be able to run a. Loop on the abs wire and have it run it’s current into itself that way it doesn’t mess with the car or bring any the check engine light, again not sure if it’ll work but worth to ask a auto elec, thanks for your help man I’ll post photos along the way
 
IMG_1004.jpegHey guys so update I’ve got in finally all wired up and that but have come into another issue. I’ve got crank but doesn’t start, I have fuel getting into the engine so I’ve crossed that out, started looking into the spark plugs n coils, I ended up changing those aswell and I still have no start I’m assuming it could possibly be my crank angle sensor that isnt allowing the car to start but I just wanted to come n ask if anyone knows where the ground cable by the trans goes to I have a photo of ground I’m talking about, but I feel like I’ve placed it in the wrong area and just want to make sure before I buy another sensor
 
samhiroki said:
View attachment 10074Hey guys so update I’ve got in finally all wired up and that but have come into another issue. I’ve got crank but doesn’t start, I have fuel getting into the engine so I’ve crossed that out, started looking into the spark plugs n coils, I ended up changing those aswell and I still have no start I’m assuming it could possibly be my crank angle sensor that isnt allowing the car to start but I just wanted to come n ask if anyone knows where the ground cable by the trans goes to I have a photo of ground I’m talking about, but I feel like I’ve placed it in the wrong area and just want to make sure before I buy another sensor
Click to expand...
Also just to add this ground is mounted between the bolts that mount the trans up to the block, car started previously before being taken out so I’m not sure why it’s not starting anymore
 
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