Wheel Track - Control Arms, Hubs, Trailings Arms swap info

Re: Wheel Track - Control Arms, Hubs, Trailings Arms swap in

JDMminievo said:
http://wiki.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?title=S13_Suspension_Conversion in this thread they use a ce lancer rack with s14 control arms and s13 tie rod ends in a r31 , can the reverse be done with suspension/steering setups fiting into a lancer? also heard rumors the rear ends of s13s fit in CEs

All this is saying is the S13 tie rod ends have the same thread as the CE Lancer Rack ends, nothing more. So does this mean the S13 rack will fit in Lancers? Well as the tie rod ends have the same thread the lancer ends will fit on the rack, but the whole reason these Nissan guys are thinking of using Lancer parts is the length of the rack as the lancer one is longer to suit their further out knuckles, so even assuming the rack mounts up the same (Probably won't) its too short anyway. S14 control arms are totally wrong shape, Nissan Knuckles would be required to have the same lower ball joint as a Lancer/FTO/Evo LCAs and you would need to use Nissan Brakes and Coilovers with Lancer Strut Tops, then there is the possibility of all sorts of issues with turning circle, arms fouling, extra/reduced steering angle, drive shafts, brake lines, track, scrubbing etc... And what are you gaining?

Bottom line is trying to fit anything Nissan into our cars would be a massive massive stuff around of great effort and cost, which when compared to the vast parts bin of cheap and confirmed Mitsubishi stuff already available to us will make no sense in almost all situations. If you want a sharper steering rack use an FTO/Evo 4,5,6 item and research what others have required to make them fit. If you want 5 stud use FTO gear. Want brembo's use Evo 4 LCA's, Knuckles, brakes etc.

That being said if there is a modification you are considering that will require another manufacturers components and you feel that it will make a meaningful difference over what the Mitsubishi parts bin has to offer then my best advice (and this implies to retrofitting Mitsubishi stuff as well to an extent) is go and measure everything yourself or at least make sure the measurements you are getting are from a reputable source. From there you can work out what needs to be modified, if you can do it yourself and if not how much it will cost/is it even feasible. It's a long time consuming and potentially expensive process so this really you'd only be going down this path if there is massive gain or no other alternative to achieve what you want.
 
Re: Wheel Track - Control Arms, Hubs, Trailings Arms swap in

thanks for a solid answer man ! i am able to aquire an S13 shell off a mate for like $500 which has all steering/suspension components and had heard that the rear end is a bolt up fit so was just trying to get some info before committing to the shell, while evo parts are a great! the equivalent price/ rarity is definitely a factor, if it was possible that S13 gear fits,Then the amount of cheaply available aftermarket parts and spares you now get access to , to me is definitely a worthwhile benefit, plus the s13s handle some as good as some of the best cars i have ever driven, but you make good points and i seem to have got my answer that it isnt some secret awesome easier mod that is overlooked by the majority!
and also worth noting my car is AWD so would be getting allot bigger benefit with upgrading the rear end then most... these are legit upgrade questions
 
Re: Wheel Track - Control Arms, Hubs, Trailings Arms swap in

does anyone know the front and rear track of an evo 4? any different to the ce?
 
Re: Wheel Track - Control Arms, Hubs, Trailings Arms swap in

Evo 4 - 1470mm Front 1470mm Rear
Evo 5 (w17s) - 1510mm Front 1505mm Rear

CE (w14s) - 1450mm Front 1460mm Rear

Evo 4 has a +45mm offset, evo 5 has +38mm offset
 
Re: Wheel Track - Control Arms, Hubs, Trailings Arms swap in

Trondabron said:
Evo 4 - 1470mm Front 1470mm Rear
Evo 5 (w17s) - 1510mm Front 1505mm Rear

CE (w14s) - 1450mm Front 1460mm Rear

Evo 4 has a +45mm offset, evo 5 has +38mm offset
thanks dude, so an evo 4 awd swap would still widen the track on a ce :problem:
 
Re: Wheel Track - Control Arms, Hubs, Trailings Arms swap in

With your R32 wheels your probs running more track than an evo 4.

Stock CE offset is what? +46, so thats 8mm either side, 16mm total, so your like 6mm wider than Evo 4.
 
Re: Wheel Track - Control Arms, Hubs, Trailings Arms swap in

oh right, i'm talking hub to hub so as if the cars were running identical spec'd wheels what is the difference in track?
if its 16mm difference from wheels then that would make the evo 2mm wider at the hubs each side at the front and 3mm less wide at the rear each side?
 
Re: Wheel Track - Control Arms, Hubs, Trailings Arms swap in

In my CE coupe "Swap Everything" car I have on the rear a set of Evo 3 swing arms hubs etc... now this all fits up perfectly but I have since discovered I need to put new bearings in there but the B!tch is that I have no idea as to how to go about removing this stuff off the car without having to drop the whole unit and start from there - has anyone got an exploded diagram or a manual that I could use as referrence.


If anyone is wondering why I have gone with the EVO 3 it was because of the stud patern 4x114.3 for the fronts I used a combination of FTO CE and CH Mivec

Edit*** Update***
I have now swapped out the bearing and put car back together again... But there is a bit of camber in the rear which I think is the cause for the sloppy feeling I feel in the rear of the car, I only have stock suspension in the car, Henry has suggested that if I use Hardrace or similar adjustable camber arms which should bring alignment back.
 
Re: Wheel Track - Control Arms, Hubs, Trailings Arms swap in

chowetime said:
In my CE coupe "Swap Everything" car I have on the rear a set of Evo 3 swing arms hubs etc... now this all fits up perfectly but I have since discovered I need to put new bearings in there but the B!tch is that I have no idea as to how to go about removing this stuff off the car without having to drop the whole unit and start from there - has anyone got an exploded diagram or a manual that I could use as referrence.


If anyone is wondering why I have gone with the EVO 3 it was because of the stud patern 4x114.3 for the fronts I used a combination of FTO CE and CH Mivec
Id go 4x114.3 just for old school wheel options tbh
 
Re: Wheel Track - Control Arms, Hubs, Trailings Arms swap in

Does anyone know what front struts will fit the Mirage/Lancer also. I am trying to hunt down some coilovers or struts with narrower/relocated spring mounts so I can run bigger diameter wheels and tyres (don't ask, just an odd project) and thought I might have more luck getting EVO coilovers than just looking around for CE stuff .. any ideas?
 
Re: Wheel Track - Control Arms, Hubs, Trailings Arms swap in

Evo 4-6 will fit up front but needs a different base for the rear to fit non evos. Normal Ce coil overs are easy to find so better off gett what fits rather then trying to make something fit
 
Re: Wheel Track - Control Arms, Hubs, Trailings Arms swap in

Thanks for the fast reply, greatly appreciated.

I only need fronts and I want them used/cheap so there are many more EVO sets around than specific CE shocks. I read that FTO shocks are a direct replacement front and rear also, can you confirm or deny?
 
Re: Wheel Track - Control Arms, Hubs, Trailings Arms swap in

yeah fto ones are straight bolt in too
 
Re: Wheel Track - Control Arms, Hubs, Trailings Arms swap in

I noticed you have a lot of awards noted in your signature there, although none for "best avatar" yet although I can see you are trying ;)
 
Re: Wheel Track - Control Arms, Hubs, Trailings Arms swap in

maybe with time it can be added
 
Does anyone know if the front LCA ball joints can be replaced without having to buy a whole new LCA?
Apparently Mitsubishi only sell complete LCAs and do not sell the ball joint separately
 
Does anyone know if the front LCA ball joints can be replaced without having to buy a whole new LCA?
Apparently Mitsubishi only sell complete LCAs and do not sell the ball joint separately
You can "with care", smash out the ball joint like i did, and get a new one pressed in. Not sure on brand, but i got my joint brand new from Bursons.
 
How difficult was this to do?
eBay UK sell the Febi/Bilstein ball joints for the CE which is what I'd be going for as from my research the Transteering and Roadsafe are questionable in quality and these are what seem to be for sale in Australia

I was hoping to use a tool like this so I won't need to remove the whole LCA and can do it while on the car. Any idea whether it'd be compatible with the CE LCA?

image_23089.jpg
 
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