Proton Disc Brakes - Pros/Cons

You can leave the front cc hubs on and just bolt the proton callipers and disk, the dust plates might be slight bit small though

the rears u will need to replace the whole hub assembly
 
I plan to remove the entire M21 suspension, even bits I don't need right now, might paint them up so when I do the suspension upgrades I can sway them over and have everything looking pretty :)

I'll also grab the brake booster thingy under the bonnet and install that at some point.

I'll need to get a new tire for the 14" M21 steel spare as my 'new' 13" won't fit.
Shame I just got a tire for it and has never touched the road, anyone need a 13" spare to fit standard CC brakes?

Dumb question but I assume the offset it the same for the M21 and CC?
 
The fronts are easy. From what i remember Matt and i pulled the drum off and used the brackets and stuff with the CE rear end.
But your better off swapping the whole rear end seeing as you have the whole thing there.
 
lancer1993 said:
I have noticed it on even a brand new Pulsar, the biggest issue being you think the hand brake is on okay but they you go to shift it into gear (automatic) as hear a clunk, it's been resting on the auto GB when in park.

Its a bit weird that a new car with 4 when disc and ABS has this kind of issue. Kinda wrecks the whole 'smooth auto' drive experience IMO.
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That's normal for autos.. My parents 60k 2012 ford territory does this too. You're meant to put it in gear before you take the hand brake off or take the hand brake off first before putting it in gear, i cant remember which way round, but it wont make as much of a clunk then. Autos are stupid anyway.
 
Put it in Drive before the handbrake comes off. Then into Park and handbrake on when you park it. Main reason is because the box needs a second to swap into Drive, so if you drop the handbrake then change into Drive you're inclined to start moving straight away, when in fact you need to wait for it to change. That massive clunk is you trying to start moving when you haven't even let the box drop into Drive yet. Bloody manual drivers....
 
The only auto Lancer I would buy is the Ralliart, but at around 20k for a good used one I'm a while off affording that.
I've driven my parents 99' Pathfinder and it's much smoother, used it to pickup the M21. Almost a 400km trip with a car trailer, 200 with an extra 1000kg on the back!

I like to choose my gear, even if I occasionally get caught out in the wrong one.

Thanks for the info guys, if I need help installing I'll ask closer to the time.
Taking them off the M21 will be a great help in learning how to put them on the CC.

Already learnt the best way to remove drive shafts (with Rigby watching) so I know how to do that now without breaking things.
 
Stupid dumb question

Now I know to get the entire rear hub and lower arms what about the front?
Do I need the front hubs to do a brake upgrade?
I gather you just need the rotor and caliper set up, is it worth keeping the hub or the front lower arms?
 
lancer1993 said:
Stupid dumb question

Now I know to get the entire rear hub and lower arms what about the front?
Do I need the front hubs to do a brake upgrade?
I gather you just need the rotor and caliper set up, is it worth keeping the hub or the front lower arms?
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Not worth keeping the hubs or front lower arms
 
I know I need some bushes, I might check them out.

They only upside keeping the lower arms would be I'd have time to paint them up for a quick swap over or just to sell them.

Sorry for the dumb questions, I'm learning a lot during this tear down.
 
Just caliper and rotors and pads for the fronts. You also either need to cut or bend your dust shields cus the m21 rotor is too big for them. I just cut mine off.
 
So you can't use the dust shield without switching hubs, I'll probably just grab the entire hum and disassemble them later to paint and prepare.

Another dumb question but how much would it cost if you were to go to Proton and buy new calipers?
I know the rotors cost about $100 for a pair on eBay, $150 for the slotted/dimpled ones and pads from about $30 a set.
I guess new rotors are the expensive bit?
 
Buying dealer parts is a ripoff. You already have everything you need.
 
lancer1993 said:
Another dumb question but how much would it cost if you were to go to Proton and buy new calipers?
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Yes, thats a VERY dumb question and i dont know why you even thought of asking it :mrgreen:
 
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