Proton Disc Brakes - Pros/Cons

lancer1993

lancer1993

Active Member
Okay another mod in my long list is the brakes.
I know there are a few options from getting better after market but same size disc rotors and better pads to installing used Proton parts.

What are the pros and cons of putting Proton disc's on the back of a CC Lancer Coupe.
Will it change the offset of my hubs?
How legal are they?
Will it affect the insurance or road worthiness?
Is there a difference between the different model protons.
How do I know I'm getting a good deal when buying them on eBay?

Sorry for the dumb questions but I thought it worthy to start a discussion on the topic.
 
1. Better brake force
2.no
3.if you're worried about legality don't even bother with this mod since its still a long way down on your list
4.if anything will improve road worthiness if done right
5.yes. Different proton models have different handbrake cable length. All models are still interchangeable with cc/ce
6.no one can teach you this
7. Why start so many threads for mods you're planning in the far future. Just chuck the question in your ride thread. Its on the main page practically everyday.
 
lancer1993 said:
Okay another mod in my long list is the brakes.
I know there are a few options from getting better after market but same size disc rotors and better pads to installing used Proton parts.

What are the pros and cons of putting Proton disc's on the back of a CC Lancer Coupe.
Will it change the offset of my hubs?
How legal are they?
Will it affect the insurance or road worthiness?
Is there a difference between the different model protons.
How do I know I'm getting a good deal when buying them on eBay?

Sorry for the dumb questions but I thought it worthy to start a discussion on the topic.
Click to expand...

1 - no cons, just pros... better braking. Would also suggest replacing front brakes and brake booster
2 - no it wont
3 - they are oem items and a bolt on mod, very legal
4 - will not affect either of them
5 - proton m21, satria gti and satria xls will fit the cc coupe, you can use the setup from a wira or persona bit the handbrake cables will be too long, stick to the coupe or hatchs
7 - look around on forums or sale sites first, ring wreckers and get prices. If its cheaper than wreckers than your getting a good deal
 
Thanks for the info, wasn't sure about the offset.
I'd get a mechanic to check the work later.
I have some suspension work planned so 2 birds.

It's one thing to buy some LEDs that stop working, don't want that to happen with brakes but I guess once the setup is in place then if I need new discs or pads I'd go to the Proton bin.

I just thought it's a topic many seem to be talking about and wanting to do so it might be worthy of a thread where those who have done it can advise others wanting to do the mod.
 
This has been discussed and done many many times in the past. There is a specific brake thread all about upgraded brakes that is stickied so would be worth having a read through that. The mini chat is also a good way to talk to people and ask random questions that you want answered rather than starting a new thread for every one. Probably worth having a bit more of a search through the forum.
 
Why is this even a thread? i swear ive answered this somewhere to you before. Just do it. it costs fk all. You may have to order CG lancer rotors if DBA still doesnt have them.
 
I did searches but you put in Proton Brakes and every time someone mentions it it comes up, and not in a thread dedicated to the topic.

I didn't find the brakes thread, where is it stickied? On the CC pages?
 
Man if your wanting more stopping power for cheap just do it. fronts are easy. just get the BMC calipers and buy new pads and rotors for it.
 
main con is you can lose some effectivness of your handbrake
 
Res said:
main con is you can lose some effectivness of your handbrake
Click to expand...
How is this, and can it be fixed?

I have noticed it on even a brand new Pulsar, the biggest issue being you think the hand brake is on okay but they you go to shift it into gear (automatic) as hear a clunk, it's been resting on the auto GB when in park.

Its a bit weird that a new car with 4 when disc and ABS has this kind of issue. Kinda wrecks the whole 'smooth auto' drive experience IMO.

I've been considering these to replace the front discs.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DRILLED-SLOT ... 1c361c3214
 
Res said:
main con is you can lose some effectivness of your handbrake
Click to expand...
Mine is fineish. Just pull the thing up hard enough :p

lancer1993 said:
Res said:
main con is you can lose some effectivness of your handbrake
Click to expand...
How is this, and can it be fixed?

I have noticed it on even a brand new Pulsar, the biggest issue being you think the hand brake is on okay but they you go to shift it into gear (automatic) as hear a clunk, it's been resting on the auto GB when in park.

Its a bit weird that a new car with 4 when disc and ABS has this kind of issue. Kinda wrecks the whole 'smooth auto' drive experience IMO.

I've been considering these to replace the front discs.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DRILLED-SLOT ... 1c361c3214
Click to expand...


I have no idea what your trying to say about the pulsar or what relevance it has. but cheap small cars use this design because its cheap.
The piston on the rear is a screw type and it also doubles as a handbrake. Not the best design but does the job. larger cars use a drum in disc design, and have the rear calipers as just brakes.
If you dont want to spend more money on the brakes and are happy with the current ones by all means get the slotted standard rotors and some new pads.
 
I'm just exploring my options thats all. And even if I get discs on the back I'd still look at new rotors and pads up front.

I agree for most having discs on the back is more for looks than performance when it comes to a coupe weighing in at less than 1000kg.

I wouldn't call a new Pulsar at $24k a cheap car, yes it's towards the lower end and I have no idea what brake it uses for the hand brake. I was just wondering if that is the reason it feels like crap on a slop when you have to put the hand brake on. Hate to think they might have the same design on the SSS which is really not a cheap car.
 
if you adjust the handbrake PROPERLY on intsall the handbrake is quite effective. (mine sucks while moving thanks to awd and the drive power to the rear being to much for it.

the correct way to set the handbrake is to leave the cable at the leaver fully relaxed.

then prime the rear by pummping the foot brake a few times then get out and prime the hand brake by levering the handbrake mechanism on the caliper (until the pad just touches the disk) then get in and set the handbrake cable if you set the handbrake cable first you just end up pulling the handbrake mechanism until you run out of cable to work with resulting in a long handbrake actuation and poor performance. mines pre bad atm i might do a DIY on it
 
Okay since I last posted here I've got my hands on an M21 (if you didn't know) now I want to do a disc conversion on all 4 wheels. Ideally it's do all 4 at once with new slotted rotors and pads, also new lower springs and shocks but I just don't have the $1500 needed for the parts for just a job right now. So on to plan B, I'll do it in stages.

1) Front discs swap, with stock used pads and rotors. Make sure they are working, replace the pads and rotors if needed after.
2) Rear discs maybe with lower arm for sway bar if it fits. Again do the rotors/pads if needed.
3) Suspension when I can afford it, maybe use the M21s front swap bar if it's bigger.

I need to know what extra tools I might need, and doing the discs will I need an alignment check, only got done a few months back.
Also what is the best way to check the performance, I'd like to just hit the brakes and see how long the current ones take to stop, without locking up. Then repeat the process as I go.

Right now I'd like to get this started over the Christmas holidays. Still need to rip them off the M21 and paint them up, planning to have them off the Proton before December.
 
Go out in your street, hit 80 or so, then brake really hard until you feel it start to lock up. Swap brakes, try again. Notice that you now have to push that much harder to lock up. The end.

Also you only need new discs if yours are warped, pads should be fine if they are meaty but scrub them up a bit anyway. You can swap the fronts in about an hour if you take your time, 30mins or less if you know what you're doing + bleeding them. Keep your brake fluid topped up while you bleed them.

OT: Did your car get hailed on?
 
Dont need an alignment as you aren't touching the steering/hub or anything. You will find out what you need when you pull them off :p
 
I thought you needed to swap the whole hub?
I'll be taking off most of the suspension when I do the job.

So is the M21 front sway bar bigger than the 93 CC coupe?

@Rigby - the CC was inside, good thing I wasn't out in the storm. Went for a drive to Maroochydore this morning.
Only had a sprinkling of pea size hail here, haven't checked the M21 yet but the sunroof should be fine.
 
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