Official too lazy to search, noob friendly thread.
- Thread starter unclepaulie
- Start date
Tim
Member
What are you using them for?
The engines are the same whether attached to an auto or manual box. You just need the corresponding torque convertor for whichever box you use, g15 or g93. You can use either box but the torque convertor has to match the box.
So, everytime I do an engine swap I forget to pay attention to/mark which fuel tank hose is which. I've had a quick look through some build threads and bay pics with nought to show. Which hard line coming from the tank goes to the charcoal/emissions canister and which goes to the rail return?
Also, After about 10 minutes of research I have a little bit of knowledge on pumps, but hopefully someone can nail it down. Should a fuel pump for an MPI car run constantly? Should it switch on/off at different points during operation/acceleration? Or does the FPR do all the work while the pump just continuously hums away. SO that the system constantly cycles fresh fuel from tank-rail-tank...?
Also, After about 10 minutes of research I have a little bit of knowledge on pumps, but hopefully someone can nail it down. Should a fuel pump for an MPI car run constantly? Should it switch on/off at different points during operation/acceleration? Or does the FPR do all the work while the pump just continuously hums away. SO that the system constantly cycles fresh fuel from tank-rail-tank...?
Couple very quick, very noob questions
Did any 1.5s come factory with tacho clusters?
Do all Ce tach clusters all have red needles?
Is it possible to change over needles from one cluster to another?
If so - what's the procedure/difficulty?
Cheers in advance
Did any 1.5s come factory with tacho clusters?
Do all Ce tach clusters all have red needles?
Is it possible to change over needles from one cluster to another?
If so - what's the procedure/difficulty?
Cheers in advance
Tim
Member
VRX Mirage did, probably VRX lancer too.
I've seen red and white/greyish needles.
And Yes.
Look in CE DIY's for cluster change DIY
Four, two on each side.
Unplug the brake light, make sure the wiring is loose before you pull it out
One fan is to cool the Air-con condenser and will kick in when stationary. The other fan is the radiator fan, which kicks in for 30seconds or so when coolant temps hit somewhere around ~95*. Moving them to the front should not cause any issues as the fans normally only kick in when stationary
From my googling, that looks like a 5 stud rotor, not suitable without a 5stud conversion
I got that too (that's why I'm checking), but on the DBA site it says they're 4 hole. They're for a 2004 mini, I'm just checking they're the right part number.
Yes, you will fail a roadworthy check with them on.
Right..... so anyways I'm about to put them on and I'm not 100% on my method. The plan is to take the wheel off, measure the centre and stick the spacer on the wheel with a little dab of sikaflex so it stays in the center wile I'm putting it back on. Is this a good way to do it? Should I let the sika get tack dry before putting the wheel back on?