DIY Transformation

tryg

New Member
A lot of people ask me what my car was/is. It is a built up from stock CVT 2.0 ES. Nothing special.
Then the question is how, how much, how long... I thought I would start a CJ thread going through each of the mods, in the order I did them, how much I found them for (realistically achievable by all) and how they made me feel about the car.

I did all my mods over an 18-month period, spending about $12K all up, but when you think I only spent $15K on the car to begin with (year old, from auction, with 18,000km), then its really only VR prices...

Here is a total list of mods thus-far.

List of mods:
from bog stock CVT ES;

Exterior-
18" VRX wheels
X-Factor copies of OEM side skirts and airdams
Fogs
Chrome fog rings
boot lip (guerney)
Billet fuel door
LED taillights
illuminated front Mitsu emblem
X-Factor widow visors
Talon rear diffuser
RPW twin stainless exhaust
Chrome lip and diffuser striping
blacked out nose
bolle-branded tint
go-fast ralliart badging
2" Perrin shorty
red decals for mitsu emblems
Bosch Aerotwin wipers

Interior-
7" Kenwood dvd (with digital tv receiver and gps nav module)
flappy paddles
9" dvd leather headrests
ipod dock
500gb hdd for kenwood
dashmat
leather wheel with bluetooth controls (from Outlander)
audio controls added
Polk momo bridged 4-channel amp for front speakers
Polk momo bridged 4-channel amp for rear speakers
Kenwood 1800w mono-block digital amp for sub
Polk MM front splits
Polk MM rear coax
Polk MM 12" sub
dynamat everywhere!!!
floor mats
stainless door sills
CF pillar gauge mount
PLX colour LCD screen multi OBD gauge
Leather seat re-trim in tiger and black
VR Lancer centre console with arm rest, trimmed in black leather

Performance mods-
RA air intake
RA twin pot front calipers
DBA 4000 series Club T3 slotted rotors
Braided brake lines
Bendix Ultimates
K&N filter
Super Circuit headers
RPW twin 2.5" stainless zorst
Ultra Racing bars; 9 in total
Kings superlow rear
Kings low front
XZ series Whiteline sways front and rear
Alutec lightweight crank pulley

Other stuff-
stainless gas bonnet struts
painted engine covers
Philips Crystal vision bulbs all around
Spirit of Competition sticker
Vinyl spats


All of my mods were done by myself, at home, with a modest range of tools... but I would like to think a great deal of knowhow. Never cutting safety corners or damaging my car.

The majority of my mods were found on eBay (or could be found on eBay) for the same prices as other clubs' fantastic group buys that take too much time and ultimately have deprived people of money, when stolen...

All but a few of these mods are simple, can-do types that all would enjoy. I believe my starting point was a modest 'mum's taxi' type of car that was begging for something to be done. Keeping a good eye on the eBay pages every week, I found most of my stuff either second hand or imported at a fraction of the price of OEM Mitsu or Australian-landed products. A bit of luck never hurts either...!

Here is a pic of the start and what it looks like now:
transformation.jpg


I was fortunate to get the 16" wheels and a full-sized spare when purchased, but nothing else was done to the car...

I found a Ralliart driver selling his wheels on eBay for $500, with excellent rubber, that I am still using. He must have changed wheels almost immediately, putting on 19" wheels. So, for $500 I had RA/VRX wheels. My rubber sold for $450, that leaves a total cost of $50 for the wheels. That was my first mod.

Secondly, I had a tint done. Now you can scrimp or spend on a tint. Personally I bought the lifetime warranted Bolle brand tint from 3M. It is a good looking metalised tint film that is very optically clear and looks good. Not too dark. Spend what you want to, but the tint was my second mod.

Because I had no exterior body kit parts, I sourced a boot lip spoiler (not a fan of wings) for a bargain price of $130, painted. That was my third mod.

Then, I found a website in Singapore, that sells complete painted OEM-style body kits, at a fraction of the price of factory. I bought the VRX front and side moldings, $480 delivered. My fourth set of mods.

After that, I bit the bullet and bought a factory set of fog lamps, to make it even more VRX style. I didnt pay $500 plus, but ordered it from the US, via Mitsubishi dealer. I installed it myself and had it flashed. Simple.

Everyone was doing it, so I also then did the nose centre black-out and chrome trim, total cost of $40.
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I was not happy being very similar to all others, so I cut out some red decal and stuck over the chrome Mitsu emblem, I also cut out the front emblem and illuminated it, using 5mm perspex and some LEDs, a relay and a switch. I still have not seen another yet around Brisbane or Toowoomba, its a neat stand-out at night. Lots of comments. Total cost $8!
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As is popular, I de-badged the car and added some Ralliart-inspired badging.. not everyone's taste but its cheap to do.

Then I bought some King Springs, low front and superlow rear, $270 total. Installation took 4 hours on my own. Great end result and handling is so much better.
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I painted my engine bay, added some chrome gas struts and a tower bar, all up $240. GIves the engine bay a good look.

Did the cheap breathing mod, added an RA intake and K&N filter, total $250. Has helped a lot.
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I took the opportunity to Dynamat the entire inside of the car, except the roof, as I was installing a bigger stereo with sub, total cost $550 (probably overdone but a great result).
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Couple of rainy-day simple mods were the shorter antenna and billet fuel filler, total $185.
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Stereos are a personal choice, not saying mine is elite or ultimate.. just to my taste. I bought a 7" TV DVD GPS Kenwood with Polk amps, splits, coax and sub.
garage.jpg


Exhaust was replace and headers installed. Total $950
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I finished the look with a rear diffuser and some added chrome trim. Total $440
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I bought and installed flappy paddles $250, a leather steering wheel ($50 new, but the find of the century), audio controls $100, PLX OBD gauge and CF holder $320 and full leather seat retrims $595 (cheap if you install yourself).
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Some other mods along the way; LED Taillights $420, reversing tv camera $35, lightened crank pulley $165, lots of Ultimate Racing bars for anti twist/sway. Whiteline XZ series sway bars, (excellent mod, bit tricky to fit front) $440.
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I also have braided brake lines, some CF film decals in the interior, iPhone charging holder/transfer cable to my stereo, 500Gb HDD for stereo, chrome fog rings, bigger catalytic converter and mid-pipe (only thing to be manufactured for me, which I did not fit), a stage 1 RPW tune, some uprated bulbs etc..

One of the most satisfying things is that all but one of the mods were done without any assistance from mechanics or others. This has kept the costs low and the amount of mods that I was able to do high.... if you cannot do them yourself, then don't, but there are very talented members on this site who might be able to assist.

I think having a base model is not the end of the world!
 
tryg said:
I think having a base model is not the end of the world!

thats the truth, just makes the journey a bit longer and the end product more personalised and enjoyable

lots of good work you have put into it :thumbup:
my fave of ur mods is the light up mitsu badge in the front grille, very personalised and cool
 
give me a dremel and I can change the world! Thanks for the compliment. I agree totally with your sentiments about a personalised journey.
 
thats a really well put together build thread. most people would say y not just buy a vrx would be similar in price but its not whta u buy its what u build. i really like what u have done to it/ what it has come from
 
That is so much writing I will amit that i didn't read it all/or much, where did you find the time....

But the car as travelled some distance to get where it is today, It looks 100 time better then a vrx anyway. Good job hope people follow suit.
 
Super lows in the rear to counteract the fact that lows in the rear make the car pitch forward?

I probably should have just investigated that option instead of returning to stock, though the whole issue of the front being completely smashed every time you hit a small bump was another concerning issue that just didn't seem right. Not just a regular thud noise either. Felt like someone hitting under underside of the car with a sledge hammer.
 
Dave, the only thing that touches down is my 4-point brace, if I go over a sharp speed hump, too fast... the superlows are good at keeping the whole car level, but useless if you regularly taking 3 full-sized blokes for drives...! Out handles some other more expensive cars, for sure.. A Maloo ute had some difficulty keeping with me in some savage corners.... pity he spent $70,000 for a big straight-line car....
 
Go the Accord, Roy.

But Tryg, such a tastefully modded car. Upon first glance you don't notice all the work that you've done to it, which I think is quite good. Not one of those people that just slap $1.5k worth of fiberglass on their car.

Love it.
 
looks good mate.

+1 for doing as much as you can DIY. i even made my own custom catback lol....not sure if that was a good or crazy idea.


i like all the personal touches and especially the rear bar. would love one on my vr4
 
UnclePaulie, I can weld also, but having it up on a hoist and those guys just go, 'bend, tack, bend, weld...'

Just made sense for me to let them do this one thing... all the rest was me... including the mother of a pain in the @r$e jobs, the front sway...
 
you need to remove the grille. The chrome Mitsu emblem (on mine) is adhered with two-sided tap. Be careful levering it off with something like a precision flat-blade screwdriver. Heat helps here.

Then you lay that over a sheet of 5mm acrylic. Trace out the diamond shapes and cut the acrylic (jig-saw or dremel). Then you cut out the relief molding (what is behind the chrome emblem (or depending on what is behind) adhere the acrylic over the area and drill 10mm holes into each segment. Insert three white 10mm LEDs. Attach chrome emblem to the front of the acrylic pieces.

Combine all the pos+ wires and all the neg- wires together. Then route those to a automotive relay. Power the impetus wire from the parker lamps. Take power from the battery to the relay and earth the correct post. Now your front emblem is powered when your parkers illuminates.

You can add a switch in between for even more control.

Hope this has helped.
 
another Lancer forum is buying illuminated emblems in from O/S, but paying some ridiculous amount of money for them... They will still need to cut out the old and insert the new..

FWIW, this cost me $8 to do, seeing as though I had the relay already... if you needed to buy a relay, it would cost you a grand total of $15.

Why pay $100 for someone else's product, which you will still have to cut into your grille to fit?!?! May as well save the money and do it this way.
 
I was down in Capalaba today with my mate Phoenix. We work together at Canungra.

We had a tip (from another Lancer club member) that the Mitsubishi 380 brakes were a direct RA replacement. Unfortunately the most important measurement was well off.

The caliper mounting bracket had a 160mm centre, the ES and VR have only 130mm centres. All the other measurements would have worked (unfortunate for me!).

Would have been nice to have 294mm rotors with twin piston calipers!

But the trip was not all in vain.... I spied a wrecked VR and grabbed a few bits my car does not have... such as a centre console with arm-rest and leather gear knob. Luckily I trimmed up the centre console and it now looks the business with black leather and gold stitching.

$60 spent, I now have an arm-rest where I didn't before!
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Hard to tell, but that is a leather stitched knob! Yay!
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later versions of the VRX have a flap over the cup-holders... they retail for $125-ish... but now I want that middle piece, with the flap! Keeping my eyes open for wrecked CJs!
 
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