jonzeyfsu10
Member
this is an awesome write up riggers been looking for ages about this as my bumpers need a refresh so thanks mate :thumbup:
DIY: How to Paint (Professional Amateur Results)
- Thread starter rigby
- Start date
HOONIGAN
Member
Anyone had experience with Septone acrylic paint? It's pretty cheap, does it's price reflect it's quality? I'm just wondering about their acrylic clear coat, not so much base colour, unless their base is of good quality and will stand the test of time?
SCA has a 20% store wide sale so I'd like to know asap.
Thanks
SCA has a 20% store wide sale so I'd like to know asap.
Thanks
PhreekRice
New Member
I cant remember if I've asked this already. Running into a few problems with my front bumper. I'm stupid and tried to repair it by putting fiberglass on the outside of the bumper rather than the inside.. now it just looks like a giant Web all over it. I've sanded the *poo* out of it but the fiberglass refuses to budge.. do I just put bog or filler over it and then sand that til it's level with the rest of the bumper ?
And another thing, I spent all day trying to sand the yellow clear coat and base coat paint off my side skirts... no luck. I got like a tiny bit off but I'm sanding by hand.. this is as much as I could get off
Like what's the roughest sandpaper I can use to just quickly get all coats of paint off everything without it being bad for the actual panels ?
And another thing, I spent all day trying to sand the yellow clear coat and base coat paint off my side skirts... no luck. I got like a tiny bit off but I'm sanding by hand.. this is as much as I could get off
Like what's the roughest sandpaper I can use to just quickly get all coats of paint off everything without it being bad for the actual panels ?
400grit is the roughest I would go for stripping paint. Wet sand it, don't dry sand. You need to use circular motions like when you brush your teeth, not back n forward in straight lines.
As for the front bumper... Fiberglass and it's resin are quite strong. You will never sand it down by hand unless you have the immense strength and patience. At this point I would just smash/break the entire area you fiberglass over on the front, and repair it from the back. Yes that means a huge chunk to repair, but it's the simplest solution with the problem you now face.
Defs ask questions before you do this stuff. Do it once, do it right :thumbup:
As for the front bumper... Fiberglass and it's resin are quite strong. You will never sand it down by hand unless you have the immense strength and patience. At this point I would just smash/break the entire area you fiberglass over on the front, and repair it from the back. Yes that means a huge chunk to repair, but it's the simplest solution with the problem you now face.
Defs ask questions before you do this stuff. Do it once, do it right :thumbup:
PhreekRice
New Member
Fuark that doesn't sound fun :/ I'd probably end up breaking more of what i actually want haha I'll give it a go though, cheers riggers.rigby said:
HMHAMz
Member
Woaahhh, woaaahhhh, hold on there; if you think you can get away with bogging over the fiberglass, and sanding to shape without making it look too lumpy (just make sure you feather out a long way along the piece, then you would be fine to do this... Otherwise just cut out the work you did with a dremel or something similar and start again..PhreekRice said:Fuark that doesn't sound fun :/ I'd probably end up breaking more of what i actually want haha I'll give it a go though, cheers riggers.rigby said:
Regarding sanding your car; you can definitely use 240 grit DRY to start (anything higher grit is going to take you YEARS to sand through old 2pac paint). Just make sure that you buy 400 and 600 wet to clean up the scratches left behind
Sanding is a slow process, but you will see the results if you do it properly from the start and take it slow! Also; LET THE SANDPAPER DO THE WORK, don't put too much pressure into the pad.So TLDR:
-Sanding back paint = 240 Dry > 400 Wet > 600 Wet hand sanding the entire area/panel to be painted with a soft block
-Fcked up repair job = either cut out what you've done with a dremel or if its not too lumpy; bog over and try to get as flat as possible with panel. If you want to keep sanding, use lower grit (could even go as low as 80 and then work way up), but WEAR A MASK! You don't want that sharp dust in your lungs.
HOONIGAN
Member
I used fibre glass filler to repair a rust hole about 10x20cm on my bonnet. I'm pretty sure I sanded it with like 80grit then went up a few steps to get to 400g. Have yet to prime the bonnet. Just go hard at it with some wet low grit paper on a block and use high fill primer after to fill the scratches....
PhreekRice
New Member
Yep just export paint Lel.rigby said:
Another thing Rigby, or anyone that has any idea what I'm talking about.. there's really fine lines all through the bumper.. like they look like cracks I dunno if I should do anything with them, orrrr...
They look like scratches but they're definitely cracks..
Same goes for the bonnet lol.. body filler/putty > sandpaper ?
Q: After applying a few coats of clear over my properly painted panel, i now need to bring it to that perfect shine. Some sections of the panel are shiny due to a few thick layers of clearcoat, whereas other sections of the panel have many many light layers of clearcoat but are not shiney. What do i need to do?