Ce Coupe 1.5 to 1.8 Conversion?

Will see if my mechanic friend can set that up. I doubt it though. I really dont want to have to replace the barrel though as then I'll have two keys for getting in and turning on the damn car.

I've done a fair bit of research over the past few days. Apparently the 4g15 dizzy just slaps right on. Same with the transmission.

Heres a quote from RPW00mirage who did a 1.5 to- 1.8 swap located on a different forum:
so i got the 1.5 transmission mated up to the 1.8 engine. using the 1.8 flywheel, and pressure plate (thanks gregg) with a minty fresh 1.5 disc i had. difference in OD seemed negligible... less than 1/4 inch. getting it into the car was tougher than usual as i was beat and i've apparently developed a hemorrhoid in the last week (let me tell you it f'ing SUCKS). glad i had a few extra hands

used the 1.8 starter i got from rem-rock, however the 1.5 starter is exactly the same despite different part numbers. hmmmmm?

i removed the CAS trigger wheel from the end of the camshaft, and then bolted the distributor in the CAS mounting location. its the same orientation as was the 1.5 . the keyway groove on the end of the 1.8 cam is the exact same shape and orientation as the 1.5 .

i was able to line up and bolt down the distributor to the 1.8 head no problem as-is on the 1.5, it is keyed one way.

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This may be a noob question but I need to learn. Is there any difference between the 4 and 5G 1.5/1.8 engines?!?! Mounting etc? I see this mentioned on another forum a LOT but not on this one? Is this an American thing maybe?? If you have any ideas let me know :D


BTW... Is your car an auto or manual? Reason I ask; I've got a complete wiring loom & ECU here to suit an auto 1.8lt swap & has had the immobiliser bypassed (not sure how, they guy I bought it from did it).
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Damn! Manual :( Oh hey maybe we can find out how it was done from this example!? Thoughts?
 
1. Go to an auction
2. Purchase a crashed MR (seen them go for around the 4-600 mark regularly)
3. Swap everything from the wreck into yours - looms, engine, ecu, ignition barrell and door locks (they are so simple to swap over)
4. Enjoy

It will probably work out cheaper than trying to buy all the parts separately and you will also get extra goodies like Mr tacho, black interior parts and skirts if they're still in ok condition, AND you'll only have one key
 
Hmmm. Good suggestion there Bi65nd haha! Considering thats cheaper/same price as an engine itself! (Quoted from a wrecker that is) Does anyone have any auction suggestions around Victoria? West of City??.. Or the best was to go about finding a decent auction
 
fowels is just on kororoit cr rd harry,might want to google some wreckers on sunshine and deerpark for places.

Personally, i would keep the coilpacks and 1.8 ignition system because that is what the car is designed for, plus i thought coilpacks last longer'/more reliability?

4g and 5g and that is to do with the years the car was made and the biggest difference is the look of the car, with smaller changes to the engines.

Can use either throttle body, the 1.8l is larger, and will naturally be larger. using the 1.8 ecu too, the 1.5ecu was written for a 1.5l engine, not 1.8
 
There would be almost no benifits from keeping the 1.5 dizzy even if it did work, the coils are way more efficiant, and it would be too much of a muck around to get it working right compared to swapping a whole loom over instead. The 1.5 ecu would be getting different signals from sensors id imagine. You'll probably bring on an engine light.
Just do what big5nd said


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^agreed^ do it once do it right, it probaby wont cost much more

cost me $400 for literally EVERYTHING i need to convert
 
Yer thats fair enough. Where did you get that res? Where can i get all the parts i need/a whole wreck of an MR for around $400 without grabing a mechanic to take me to auctions??!! If i go to a local wreck they will charge a lot more then that??
 
Here's a couple... neither of these are MR's, if you're set on one you just gotta keep an eye out on auction sites, ebay, etc. Not sure on the white one because there's no engine shot, I have a feeling it's a 1.8 because it has the tacho cluster, someone might know a bit more than I do about them?

http://www.pickles.com.au/damaged/item/-/details/07-01--Mitsubishi--Lancer/1252274987

Or this one, which comes with a wicked droid body kit and altezzas oofffttt

http://www.pickles.com.au/damaged/item/-/details/09-03--Mitsubishi--Lancer/1252278333
 
i think speed merchant ran a 93 with 4g15 ecu/distributer and taped a hole in the manifold for the MAP sensor.
 
unclepaulie said:
i think speed merchant ran a 93 with 4g15 ecu/distributer and taped a hole in the manifold for the MAP sensor.
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Not quite. I'm running a standard 4g93 with all it's usual coilpacks and wiring. I just have binned the MAF as it does nothing at all, but I did wire my air temp sensor into the MAF plug though.

For proof, see below.
 
Ok. I'll be hitting some auctions over the next few weeks. This thread may go dead until I hit a win but I may keep a log of how the auctions go so others who give it a shot can have an idea of what to expect.

-HM
 
have a look on gumtree always some young gun that has no insurance and has crashed his car.... try and find a car that is the same series as yours as this will save on swapping out too many other lines such as power steering brakes etc... keep the swap as original as possible to what came from factory as you still have to get it covered off by a mechanic so you dont want some ghetto looking swap done.
It really is a easy swap when you have a complete car there... and another good thing is that you will have a spare engine and chassis so slap your old 4g15 banger into the wreck and sell the wreck off again... but if you have the storage space buying a complete wreck an selling off the remaining parts is quite economical
 
Some people are giving bad advice, and have no solid understanding of how the engine harness connects to interior loom, sensors, ecu etc.
Sure I know everyone wants to help but when someone already needs some advice and gets fed snippets of wrong information thats not going to help them.

Unless you remove the immobiliser from the standard ecu be prepared to take everything from a donor car including keys, immobiliser ecu, engine ecu or have the ecu reflashed to provide the accept the signal from the key/imobiliser set you are using.

You can even use the 4g15 loom on a 4g93 and run coil packs. Ive done so by wiring in a few additional wires for the coil packs since there is 2x over the 1x distributor, wiring in extra wiring for the cam sensor, extending crank sensor wiring since the crank sensor wiring for the 4g15 is in a different location on the cam, using the cam trigger wheel for crank angle sensing. Of course this is in a car that ive done to run a standalone ecu since in the long run the factory is far too limited for tuning. Ease of tuning and flexibility is just not there.

I do exactly as Speed Merchant mentioned in regarding to air temp sensor wiring. Once we bin the maf and run a map since he to is running a standalone ecu.

When people talk about splicing looms this and that. That is a completely mess of a job. Ask Steve. The loom he has provided me is a mad hack job loom. For me I rather bin all of that and instead we are going too be running and standalone ecu for his new setup.
If you wanted to all you need to do is depin the connectors on the original car side and wire them up to the 4g93 harness.
The engine harness has wiring for sensors and a few other things like aircon relay and condesnsor fan relay signals.

For a performance build I would ditch the factory ecu anyway.
The stock ecu can be reflashed if you are on a budget. But since tuning it is not real time it is more time consuming to tune.
You can do without even removing the dash at all to do a 4g93 swap into a Ce with 4g15 engine or a Mirage with 4g15.
All depends what route you take,.
 
Thanks hens I really appreciate it. Ill probably be replacing the cars ignition\locks. Unless getting the ecu flashed to use the 4g15 keys is cheap/easy?

Ill defibately be getting a whole wreck and most likely selling all remaining parts that im not gonna need to cover some of the costs. May even sell the 4g15 engine as its in pretty decent nic/low k's for its year.

Once i understand what each sensor does and is needed for; wiring etc. is not a problem as I'm fairly proficient with electronics.

Assuming i take the 4g93 ecu etc. How much would i benefit from a tune and whats this about a stand-alone ecu hens?
 
He's talking about using a loom that was spliced/hacked up to adopt an engine into another car. If you're getting a full 1.8 wreck it should be unmolestered and you won't have this problem. You won't need a standalone if you're going to swap everything over. Unless you want to go the performance route, say turboing or some pretty serious NA mods.
 
HMHAMz said:
I understand the first part. I was just querying for further details on the 'standalone ecu'.
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A standalone ecu is a ecu that is completely tuned by a tuner shop and/or someone with the technology to do it. They will be able to adjust air/fuel ratio's, injectors, temps for all fluids bar a couple, and more.
 
I can do standalone ecu installs and tune from start to finish.
All cold start/water temp enrichment, throttle enrichment etc.
No one else touches the car but me.
Tuned for perfect air fuels on the street. Safe ignition timing, so if you pick a lesser quality batch of fuel you engine isnt going to pick up detonation. I can also put it on the dyno and tune for max torque and power unless the you hit the knock threshold before MBT then I would just back it off a notch.

And on all cars ive tuned they all passed im240 emissions and get excellent fuel economy as good as stock or better.
 
Well my cars 1996 so I don't have to worry about emissions so much I believe!? Does that mean more fun tune/exhaust availability? hehe.

I see now. I don't think a stand-alone ecu is going to be within my budget for quiet a while so I think this engine install is going to have to rock off the old 1.8 ecu. So any tips for utilizing the 1.8 ecu? Should I get a tune for the conversion? Will I have any issues if I dont? How much would it cost to either get a tune, change the immobilizer key/ tune+immobilizer? And will I have any issues if I don't. (Keep in mind I'll probably just swap all the locks/ignition over; not change the ecu key.)
 
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