Brake Upgrade Information

HOLD THE PHONE!!
look at this.
This is what the wreckers sold me as a pair of calipers.
Now its the one on the right that I have been trying to fit.
Looks like its back to the muppets at the wreckers to see if they can sell me a matching pair.
So Sorry to all and Donki, how could I ever doubt you.
Cheers Ben.IMG_0673s.jpg
 
It just sucks when you have very limited time to work on your car and this happens.
I generally dont do things off recommendations on forums and the like, cause usually "yeah, just bolts straight up"
usually means grinders, welders and cnc lathes. But I had, and still have now, full faith in this forum, so it was easy to blame the interwebs at first glance.
 
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Benvette said:
Has anyone actually done this? Or is this just in "theory"? Because I just went and bought all this sh!t and it dont Fit!!
The rotors are too big and the bolts dont line up with the calipers.
F#*kn glad I wasted $500 bucks on all that sh!t!!!
Click to expand...

If the the rotors are 'too big' then you may have found yourself with the 256mm 4cyl magna calipers. Did you pull the calipers off the car yourself?

I fitted magna calipers with the mini 276mm rotor to my CE and biggest/only issue I had was not being able to get the banjo bolt filed/cut down due to a lack of appropriate tools and my own lack of research. Calipers bolted on and rotors fit as the information reads.


Edit* nevermind, just saw your pic lol. Matching calipers would be a good start :p
 
What is everybody doing for the rears.
I am trying to get a complete Satria GTi for $400 to use the rear brake and handbrake cable setup.
Is there any other options. (save me reading 28 pages of this thread).
 
You can also go evo123 and fto. Best bet is to take the whole rear. 1st page also mentions it. I haven't done it but I will do one of those eventually whatever I find first.
 
Benvette said:
What is everybody doing for the rears.
I am trying to get a complete Satria GTi for $400 to use the rear brake and handbrake cable setup.
Is there any other options. (save me reading 28 pages of this thread).
Click to expand...

$400 is a bit rich, I bought a pair of GTi ones with cables for $250, Another set I got of a Proton Wira for $200.
I'd shop around a bit more.
 
Yeah cool, so a wira has the same rear brakes?
I just thought a whole car for 400 nay be advantageous.
Is there anything else I can use on it?
Twin cam 4G93 has got to be worth something.
 
Oh, A complete Satria for $400... thats not bad at all.

Yes its what I used initially a few years back.
My old Proton Wira sedan rear brakes in all thier glory.

D34EAF55-A4FA-4191-8076-3AE9A03B09DD-2172-0000050768366089-1.jpg


And as fitted afterwards.

77039DEB-30AA-4987-B9C1-8B708186B1F4-7986-00000C6F48D484A4.jpg
 
I believe mine are wira rears as well but satria cables? They're 260mm. I forget what specs your wheels are but they can be a challenge if you have low offset rears etc. But if you can fit 276mm you should be fine
 
Hey guys,
I'm looking to put new rotors on my car.
I have the 260mm rear brake setup (unsure what care it came from).
Am I correct in that all 4x100 260mm rotors should fit (ie, from Satria, M21 etc)?

Also I am unable to find DBA rotors and vaguely remember it being mentioned they are no longer made. What options are there?
I have found RDA rotors but the car is for track use and I am not sure RDA rotors are up to the task as they warp quite easily
 
I habe never warped a set of rotors in mt life... generally warping happens when too much heat gets inteoduces too quickly. All rda rotors should come with a bed in procedure. Mine procedure that i have is similar to that, its just the rda procedure done twice essentially.

I habe used rda on every track car i have owned and every car i have done brakea for followed the same procedure and never experienced warping. The most recent brake job i did was intalling Skyline R33 gtr brakes on an S15. New pads and rdas. 3 monthes later and 2 tracks days its all G.

I also give intructions to go easy on brake usage, as in how hard they press and how long for, for about 300kms
 
Mine either came warped or got warped on my first drive.
However I may be slightly to blame... It was the first time I swapped rotors/pads out and I neglected to clean and relube the slide pins and turns out they were seized so the brakes were only applying pressure on one side of the rotor rather than both sides.
I am not sure if this is enough to warp them but my theory was that if half the rotor heats up and expands while the other half does not then this is likely to warp it as there will be opposing forces on it.
 
Spetz said:
Mine either came warped or got warped on my first drive.
However I may be slightly to blame... It was the first time I swapped rotors/pads out and I neglected to clean and relube the slide pins and turns out they were seized so the brakes were only applying pressure on one side of the rotor rather than both sides.
I am not sure if this is enough to warp them but my theory was that if half the rotor heats up and expands while the other half does not then this is likely to warp it as there will be opposing forces on it.
Click to expand...
The uneven pressure is definetly the problem.
People get confused when they talk about warped rotors. It is very difficult if not impossible to actually warp the brake rotors unless on a proper race car. What actually happens is brake pad material transfers unevenly onto the brake rotors and makes them feel warped.
 
Well it felt really rough the first time I applied medium to heavy brakes.
Then after cleaning and greasing the slide pins most of the roughness went away but even currently around the 60km/h mark I feel roughness through the brakes.
It wasn't like that with my old rotors and pads... so I'll likely have to replace them again now
 
Completely disagree with impossible. I have come across dozens of cases of warped rotors due to heat.

Generally if i suspect a case the rotors go on to a lathe and a dial gauge is used to confirm. If there isnt a lot of wear on the rotors, they can be skimmed as long as its within legal tolerances.

I have only personally seen 3 or 4 cases of a slide pin causing such problems.

Trouble is most mechanics these days are too lazy to do thibg properly. They see a note that says bed in procesure isnt necessary. All in a bid to save time and money.

With any brake job i always checked caliper and piston movement, lube applicable slides and check seals and boots.
 
Warping can come from not tightening wheel nuts evenly, hub face not clean or pad transfer where keeping your foot on the pedal when the brakes are red hot. Don't blame the rotors too quickly.
 
Guys I know I've brought this up before but never had a conclusive answer...
The brake bias/prop valve on cars with drum brakes seems to be inefficient once going to disc brakes.
My bias was 91/9 after doing the disc conversion.
Has anyone checked what other prop valves would fix up the bias closer to 70/30?
Currently due to availability I'll be looking at some FTO ones but unsure whether auto/manual and ABS/non-ABS makes a difference?
 
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