Brake Upgrade Information

I never sandblast i.e beadblast calipers anymore. They get stuck in the seal grooves threads, back in the piston body, everywhere and it is a nightmare. You are asking for trouble. If you dont spend 15-30min per caliper cleaning it 4 times over.

If you really want then you should just blast the caliper with the piston body complete and with slide pins threaded on.
 
Inverted flare? On which part of the caliper?

You mean the fitting? From looking at multiple pictures and posts i understand the larger piston where banjo and the smaller werent.
 
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If i recall correctly, the prop valve is the same between CE, FTO, Magna, and Evo. I cant remember who found this info, but the part numbers were all the same
The prop valve on our drum rear cars is different to the FTO and EVO GSR.
But it is the same as EVO 4-6 RS. The RS model comes standard with 276mm twin piston caliper with the large 160mm bolt spacing.
 
Inverted flare? On which part of the caliper?

You mean the fitting? From looking at multiple pictures and posts i understand the larger piston where banjo and the smaller werent.
Google inverted flare. They are found all around the Mitsu vehicle on brake lines hardline to soft line and fuel lines.
Banjo fitting calipers have a banjo brake hose fitting. Not sure how to explain it further. If the caliper has no brake hose on it at all then the way to tell is the banjo style one comes straight out of the centre. The thread is M10 and is a through hole.
THe invert flare type has the same thread but is not a through hole. There is an inverted flare seat. and the thread surface is on an angle toward the top of the piston body.

Invert flare seals on the flare taper.
Banjo seals with 2 washers.
 
Yeah no i understand. I have the 2207 cast. The fitting comes out at a 45degree angle.

So would a female swivel m10x1.00 fitting be correct as i actually want to get some custom hel lines made. I know the fitting on the other side is a female circlip m10x1.00.
 
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Yeah. No worries his post is very confusing. Because in another post he had a picture of a 2311 cast calliper and even wrote that he had used a 2311 (smaller piston) but in the post your refering to he shows a picture of a 4304 (larger piston) cast. Maybe he uploaded wrong picture? I dunno lol.

*EDIT*

Its also entirely plausible that he got the 4304 castings from a car that had new pistons installed from the 42mm pistons because from what i can tell the bore diameter is the same across all 3 castings and technically you can put in any variation of pistons as long as you use the right sealing kits.


So I test fitted all the seals and everything fit fine.
I am not sure if because the seals are rubber that means they just stretch to the right size?
I installed the seal in the caliper and then the piston, there was a bit of resistance to get it in (when the piston met the seal) but then it was fine.
The piston dust boot inner diameter is exactly the same as the piston area that it goes onto (29.75mm I measured). The other kit has 26.XXmm piston dust boot inner diameter according to the link I posted. I am not sure though if the smaller ID is just so the fit is more snug?
At this stage the fit is "exact" and there is no rubber stretch but perhaps the design is to stretch the rubber to provide a better seal?

Nothing is indicating to me that this is the wrong kit but at the same time I feel that even the wrong kit would basically fit due to rubber elasticity etc and we are talking about a 1mm difference.

My piston OD is 42.75mm
 
Also another question, is there a way to differentiate left and right caliper carriers/brackets?

And is it essential to paint the calipers to avoid rust or anything?
The sandblasted calipers and brackets look like new and just have a clean bare metal look which I am thinking about leave (alternatively I have matte black high temp paint)
 
I ended up rebuilding them last night, the reseal kit fitted perfectly.
I am not sure if perhaps the 1mm difference just doesn't matter or doesn't seem to matter or whether I simply have the correct kit for the calipers.

I also did end up painting them in matte black. They aren't on the car yet but off the car they look good in black. I'm hoping this doesn't make them look like they are covered in brake dust when on the car.

As for the left and right brackets they have different stampings on them, different part numbers and also visually (but I could be wrong) it seems like the caliper will sit a few mm off depending on which side they go on.
I labeled everything before giving it into the brake shop to sandblast and micropolish the pistons and pins and they put everything back into the labeled sandwich bags I had for all the individual pins, pistons etc but the brackets I had a tag on which they didn't put back :rage:
 
Edit. There should be 2207 2 and 2207 4. I will check which 1 is which for you.

Either way essentially the calipers tell you if they are left or right. So if you test fit the brackets with the slide pins (slide pins should have the G & L markings the corrispond to whhich side of the caliper they go on.) The plastic grommet tip will only go into a bracket configuration. Try both and you may find 1 doesnt slide in.
 
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I see what you mean.
And the pin that has the rubber grommet goes on the top judging from the diagrams?
Do let me know if you find out nonetheless.
 
Yes it should go on the top side where the bleeder nipple should be facing upwards aswell i guess best way to tell.
 
Im assuming because the top 1 has the grommet. Its so you can undo the bottom one and lift the caliper like a hinge to change pads instead if removing both. The gronmet must allow the hinge movement better.
 
Hey guys silly question...
How do you remove the rear rotor?
I took my brake calipers and carriers off but the rotor is not coming off.
Do I need to undo the centre cap thing or something?
 
Hey guys silly question...
How do you remove the rear rotor?
I took my brake calipers and carriers off but the rotor is not coming off.
Do I need to undo the centre cap thing or something?
Might be a little flat head screw thats holding the rotor to the hub
 
Just did the proton rear brake swap on my rage. I didn't have the control arms like a lot of peeps do so I used the following parts:

- Proton GTI caliper, caliper mount and dust shield (dust shield isn't technically required)
- New rotors and pads to suit proton GTI
- New braided brake lines with GTI banjo bolt (can use stock proton ones but mine had been cut, the stock drums are hardlines so can't be used)
- Proton GTI handbrake cables with all the stock mirage mounting tabs
- Stock mirage hub (identical to GTI hub, same part number)

Tools required were 30mm socket for the axle, Front = 32mm, rear = 30mm
Once the axle nut is off the hub will just slide straight off, no pulling tools required.
14, 12 and 10mm sockets for the various caliper bolts and handbrake cable mount bolts
hammer, pliers, screw drivers etc.

Toughest part is running the new handbrake cables, but it's done now. Just thought I'd list up a few things I was missing or confused about when I started this :)

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