2 pack painting

mdclear

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I will be respraying an entire car next weekend, it will be a slightly different colour. Going from dark green to dark purple closed door respray.
Know most of what i need to know have had a fair bit of practice.
But i would like to know what the people here who have more experience have done, Let me have all your information from basics to tips and tricks, so at the end of this thread i can filter through and edit first post to be a painting bible ready for sticky.

Michael
 
I'm undecided on the door jams, will probably do them too. But the engine bay and under car will stay green
 
all i can tell you is get a good air compressor.minimum 12 cfm

i assume you can set the gun up correctly with the right fluid tip 1.4 mm

basically make sure you mask everything you dont want paint on.
follow the wet edges as you spray,overlap the spray pattern 50%.

are you spraying a metallic colour?
 
Yes spraying metallic, can do the gun, but if we put all info in here it will be use full to others later.
 
They're called ISOCYANATES, and yes, pretty damn toxic...

Most experts use 'fresh air' systems to paint 2-pack paints, but the novice can get away with a proper cannister mask... for mostly vented spraying. Don't stay closed up with this stuff.
 
1. Watch that you cover everything and spray inside, overspray does not wipe off when hard!

2. Don't breathe this stuff in, deadly.

3. Don't go over any single-pack primer or acrylic paint, they will react or shrink at different rates, showing up your previous efforts.

4. Don't get caught spraying 2Pack outside of an approved booth... Both Work Cover and our equiv. of EPA would have kittens...

If you're still going ahead with this, consider the types of paint you can use (there are different types of 2Pack paints), the type of gun (and quality of gun - I use Iwata guns) and how much free-air you have (how much can your compressor constantly supply?). I would also use the best type of mask I could afford with the stuff you seem to want to use.

So....

5. This is a must, use a proper 2Pack sealing coat, or 2Pack primer coat, it will allow the paint something to stick to properly, especially if you use bog. Primer will basically not soak into or react with the paint that is already on your car. if you paint your final coat of paint straight over your standard paint they can react with each other and stuff up your job, so painting primer down is a must. It also needs to be proper 2Pack primer, not just any primer off the shelf.

6. Use a separate gun for the primer, you need something with a larger tip, around the 1.8mm and spray it on pretty thick. you have to mix the primer 3 to 1 with hardener and use about a 10% thinners on top. Go to your local paint shop and buy a mixing stick. it has exact measurements of 3:1 and the thinners you need, so you don't actually need to measure anything.

7. When painting any primer, I make sure I do a light dust coat first, this is a very very light coat of primer as a first layer, its looks like just over spray or dust on the paint work. This helps the paint to stick properly.

8. Once you have done the dust coat then you are right to spray all the primer down. It's best to do about 3 thick coats of primer. Don't worry about any rough patch's in the primer coat, remember this all still has to be sanded back. It is a good idea to have a black spray paint ready, and to do whats called a guide coat over the primer. This will allow you to see where you have sanded and if you have any bumps in your paintwork. Basically its just a dust coat of black over the white primer.

9. Once the primer has completely dried then you are ready to start sanding it back. use an 800grade sandpaper and the block - which helps the paint to be dead flat. You will see as you sand over the black guide coat it will disappear. This is what you want. If you are sanding over the black layer of paint and it doesn't come off then you obviously know there is a low part of your paint and you have to get it all straight in that area.

Once you have sanded the whole car back with 800grade sandpaper and it is completely flat and smooth, you are ready to paint. You should be able to run your hand over the primer and it shouldn't' be rough and you shouldn't' feel any high's or low's in the paint.

You will have to wash all the car down again and get rid of any dust. Now if your in a garage/backyard or spray booth it is a good idea to wet down the floors and walls to make sure you don't' blow up any dust on your paint when you are spraying.

10. You are ready to mix up the paint. With 2Pack paint you can get it in a couple different options, 2k which means you get the paint and just mix it with 1:1 paint to thinners. If you get the other type of 2Pack paint then you have to mix the paint with 2:1 paint to hardener and then 10% thinners. You might find using a 1:1 mix of thinners to paint a lot more economical because the thinners is cheap and you get 2L of paint from only 1L.

Make sure you always mix the paint correctly. If you don't use enough thinners the paint will not be glossy, it will look very rough.

Because the paint isn't very thick you have to stand back and bit and don't paint it on too thick or you will get runs. Use a fairly broad spray pattern and adjust the gun to spray more air than paint. Use even strokes and go back and forward, top to bottom. Do the roof and bonnet/boot first. Learning to paint isn't easy, you have to spray the paint on perfectly, it has to be as thick as you can get it, without it running. This will give you the glossiest paint work, you will be surprised how thick you can paint the paint on without it running, as it dries very quickly.

Once you have painted the whole car with about 3 coats of paint you are ready for the clear.

The clear is mixed 2 to 1 clear to hardener and 10% thinners. the clear has to be painted on with thick glossy coats, but it is easy to get runs in the clear because it is very slow to dry, so be careful. If you do get runs in the clear coat just leave them, they are easy to get out once the clear coat has dried.

Paint on about 4 layers of clear.

Once the clear has dried test fit all your panels back on, don't do them up tight or you will mark the clear coat. just sit them all on. rub back all the clear with a 1200grade sandpaper and then wash it all off. Paint a couple more coats of clear over the whole car. this will match all the paint up and make sure that it all looks the same colour, also by sanding the clear coat back it will make the paint look even smoother.

11. Once the clear coat is finished, leave it to dry. If it is in a booth the heat will dry the paint quickly, if you are in your back yard then leave the car for about a week in the sun. Take off all the paper and sticky tape and start putting your panels back on properly, start putting the lights and rubbers back in.

Once its is completely dry and hard, sand the whole car back with a wet and dry 2000grade sandpaper and then either buff it yourself or take it to a car detailer and get them to buff it properly.
 
Nice work trgy, that there is a basic wiki.
Interested to see others opinions on what you've said.
 
I painted my mates minitruck last weekend matt black. I can only say one thing is just trowel it on, thickest coats u can spray. We used 3lts of paint and 3lts of thinners on a single cab bravo, its very thick but it was also white before and we didnt prime it cause cbf...
 
mdclear said:
Nice work trgy, that there is a basic wiki.
Interested to see others opinions on what you've said.


What, that is not from Wiki..

It is a conglomeration of posts found here and on other clubs I have been a member of in the past...

Of note, I don't use 2Pack, I use acryllic, but I get great results because I start with good quality body work, then use good quality products, including an $800 gun and big compressor... but nothing beats experience and I have effed up tons of stuff before I actually did anything that was of any quality.

Because it's just plain wise to do so; practice on a scrap panel for a few attempts first... best advice I can give.
 
Why the need to paint 2Pack? Why not just use super-friendly acrylic?!?!

You can use a sealer if you're concerned that the paints will react.

I understand the hardness of 2Pack, but the benefits are nothing but expense if you get it wrong... it's and expensive system to paint and hazardous (mentioned enough).

I love acrylic paints, easy to match and consistent to spray with.

Just my 2c
 
I will be using 2k so no hardener. I have never sprayed acrylic before only 2pk and 2k
 
I heard on the grapevine that there is isocyanate-free 2Pack, but I have not yet found any solid leads on this...

I have great success with acrylic. I sprayed the last bike I rebuilt in mica flecked acrylic and 3 coats of clear...awesome.
 
The point is.. a good finish, done by someone competent can be repaired easily and cheaply... That hardness benefit of 2K systems or other 2Pack systems means nothing if it's best left to a professional to spray it..

It's just more difficult. I have helped my old man spray gelcoat and 2Pack, these are jobs that look awesome when done by professionals, acrylic is a bit more forgiving for an amateur (me included).
 
Acrylic job, before and after.
DSC01407.jpg
DSC01431.jpg
 
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