camshafts

and does anyone know of any shift kits for the 4spd auto i've seen one from a2 designs and was wondering if shift kits are the way to go or if the newer 6spd tranny will fit my motor
 
if you have the 94 then you'll be looking at the 4g93 dohc head, quite rare but if you look hard enough you will find them
i will warn you this is still in the $2k area of cost

if you cant find 93 dohc head then you could contact Luie (LLT racing) altho he has a fairly bad rep within the club, but thats cos he is slow at importing and sending stuff, but he's the guy who will find it if you cant

if i where to day which mod would be best cost:gain ratio for you i would say single TB upgrade, could cost u all of $200, and will give u some top ends, combine with underdrive pully, that makes for ~$400tot.
you will be looking at noticable gains hi and low end

if your coming from 8's and 6's then you have alot to get used to, NA lancers will never be straight line power houses, you get the best out of them by building up their handling they can out handle alot of cars round the twisties very well.
 
donza81 said:
and does anyone know of any shift kits for the 4spd auto i've seen one from a2 designs and was wondering if shift kits are the way to go or if the newer 6spd tranny will fit my motor

5 speed manual conversion if your serious about power and performance, i would do this b4 anything else
 
mine already has the sports suspension from the factory with strut brace but i'm thinking of upgrading springs and swaybars already got a quote about 700 and i can fit these items myself and i understand that these cars aren't gonna be super fast but its realistic to expect more power from them with some good mods and autos are still capable of good performance and the can take a lot of power mine has sports shift but it runs out of steam at about 140-150 so i thought an extra gear or 2 would help
 
wont work the 4b1x heads dont match up to the 4g9x blocks at all, completely different
get a whiteline or ultra racing rear swaybar, rear strutbrace, coilovers or lowered units with some good performance shocks

they may come factory with what mitsu calls 'sports' suspension, there is so much better handling out there than the stock setup

burning out a 150km/h (hopefully at drags) you could look into getting longer gear ratios, but this would make it sluggish down low
 
yeah i like the gearing on it but an extra gear would be good as i do a lot of highway driving and an extra gear would bring the revs down and make it more cruisy at highway speeds
 
and i did a bit of checking and a lot of people say the dohc conversion doesen't make much of a difference does anyone know some one who has done this before as it would be good to see what they have to say about it instead of just hearing people say no no its to hard don't bother
 
i know LLT racing has built a few 93dohc and dohc miv.
it will give u stronger longer top end power band, with minor loss on the low end from the extra weight of an additional camshaft and gear having to be turned.

it is worth it, but i would exhaust your cheaper options 1st (underdrive pully, single TB upgrade)
also have u considered light weight rims? if your serious about your acceleration lightweight parts are the way to go, make a hell of a difference
 
For what you're talking about will probably cost you around $10,000 it would get you power but you would not be driving it in traffic. As I stated previously go with the same mods I've listed and then go with the bigger things. The way you're talking is backwards and will probably lose you power until everything is done.
 
not a bad ITB custom setup diy find there tron
i have seen neater custom plenum jobs tho, that ones plenum kinda sucks, good find tho

i would love to know if the TPS sensor still worked okay being only on the 1st ITB and how he cabled them to open each one evenly
 
matty said:
For what you're talking about will probably cost you around $10,000 it would get you power but you would not be driving it in traffic. As I stated previously go with the same mods I've listed and then go with the bigger things. The way you're talking is backwards and will probably lose you power until everything is done.
+1

also simple rule here.
A stock fuel map is quite rich from midrange to redline.
If you do mods that will require more fuel in these areas you might need more than a interceptor.
standalone > piggyback > interceptor
Indepedant mapping of fuel and ignition is the best way to go.
Systems that end mimicking a different engine load to make the ecu think it has less load and therefore increase injector duty time are not a good idea.
However some cars will need piggyback aplications by using a standalone. eg auto transmission vehicles.
 
There are ECU signal mixers in motorcycling that give you much more than stock tabling will afford or piggy-back will give, but I have yet to see a genuine application of these in the car sector. I would suggest listening to the two who replied above, they know their stuff.

Stand alone is the only way to go.. That said, you sound like you could do more for less... have you thought about a half-cut?
 
Sorry old thread by a week or so but I could not help myself have to put in my 2C worth... quad T/B ? have you driven a car with quads ? please do not build your car around a quad T/B as this is a very serious setup that is really on good for on the track you would not be able to drive it on the road... if you go quads you will need a very aggressive cam shaft/s (if you go DOHC) you would want a full stand alone ECU as a piggy back ecu is just not going to tune the car your idles speed will be around the 1400rpm with a good ecu... you will also have to put in new valves and springs because you have upgraded the cams to deal with the extra air via you new quads..

A really good sound upgrade is either go boost but the engine internals may need upgrading depending on the size turbo and how much psi you intend to have in there... if it was me I would look at a ported 4G93 intake manifold a 60mm T/B with a very good exhaust, a 4G93 cam is also a good upgrade and a adjustable cam gear and under crank pulley... this would make for a very nice street car... but certainly coilovers will make a big difference. If you do your homework you should be able to collect most of the parts for just a few hundred
 
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