Rattling noise during engine braking after clutch replacement

[alb9user]

Alright so I replaced my clutch on my 01 Lancer ~3 weekends ago. The only issue I have noticed is during engine braking (i.e. 2nd gear ~4k rpm) with no throttle, there is what sounds like a loud rattling / thumping noise coming from approximately the front left of the car. The noise sounds rhythmic, with it increasing in higher engine rpm.

If I press the clutch in the noise disappears. The clutch appears to engage and disengage fine. And this doesn't appear to happen under acceleration, light or heavy. If it were clutch shudder, I imagine this wouldn't only occur during engine braking?

I'd appreciate any suggestions as to what this could be, and I'll try and get a recording of the sound up asap.

Edit: Got the sound recorded. https://soundcloud.com/brok9n/noise. I'm in 2nd gear throughout the clip. The sound is most notable while decelerating downhill as in the clip. And in hindsight, rattling isn't the best description.

 

[wagonmaster]

Once again, hard to pinpoint unless you see the car, but here are a few things to check/think about first.

• First off check your clutch slave pin etc for wear, its been known to make a similar noise (as you described?) on de-acceleration.
• Did you replace spigot bearing when you did the clutch
• Throw out bearing, did you replace? , under normal conditions you would only get throw-out bearing noise when you push the clutch in, if its dead silent with the clutch disengaged, chances are its not that, its a remote possible, but i have seen this happen only once with a noisey TOB in 40 yrs with clutch not disengaged, but highly unlikely.
• Noisy bearing in the gearbox, if it wasn't there before clutch change, its highly unlikely that.
• Obviously you checked oil levels in gearbox first?
• Correct about what you said about clutch shudder, what brand assembly did you use anyway?

I hope its something simple, especially after just replacing the clutch already

 

[frosty7]

Are the driveshafts plugged in all the way? Oil level?

 

[alb9user]

Once again, hard to pinpoint unless you see the car, but here are a few things to check/think about first.

• First off check your clutch slave pin etc for wear, its been known to make a similar noise (as you described?) on de-acceleration.
• Did you replace spigot bearing when you did the clutch
• Throw out bearing, did you replace? , under normal conditions you would only get throw-out bearing noise when you push the clutch in, if its dead silent with the clutch disengaged, chances are its not that, its a remote possible, but i have seen this happen only once with a noisey TOB in 40 yrs with clutch not disengaged, but highly unlikely.
• Noisy bearing in the gearbox, if it wasn't there before clutch change, its highly unlikely that.
• Obviously you checked oil levels in gearbox first?
• Correct about what you said about clutch shudder, what brand assembly did you use anyway?

I hope its something simple, especially after just replacing the clutch already

I'll definitely be checking out the slave pin this weekend. The car surprisingly did not have a spigot bearing (place I bought the clutch kit from was also suprised but he was certain it didn't have one, and he was correct). And the clutch release bearing was changed, that was why I changed the clutch originally (it also had very little friction material remaining anyway).

The transmission oil was changed a week or so prior to the clutch change so I just put the fluid back in (well 99% of it, but I'll definitely double check it also).

And I used the only one I could get on a Saturday morning, it was by Clutch Pro if I recall correctly. I wanted exedy but no one had it in stock (funny thing is that kit from exedy had the spigot bearing in it, but it was unnecessary apparently).

Appreciate the suggestions mate, last thing I want to do is take the clutch back out.

Are the driveshafts plugged in all the way? Oil level?

Pretty confident they are in correctly, but I will also double check them and the oil level this weekend. Can't hurt to be 100% certian that's for sure. Thanks for the suggestion


Edit: One thing I want to add is we half took apart the left side ball joint before deciding it was easier to just disconnect the knuckle from the shock. We did retorque it to spec without load on the suspension though.