Noob Question: Speakers
- Thread starter Geophray
- Start date
Something like this would be ideal:
http://www.ryda.com.au/Kenwood-KAC-M615D-Mono-Amplifier-p/kacm615d.htm
Not all Autobarn stores are as bad as people make them out to be. Quite often the employess are actually very knowledgeable and arent just the 15 year old cheap labour. I used to work for Autobarn in Coffs but I had already done a full Eclipse sound system with 6.5's alround and two 12" subs, and then a full Alpine system with type x splits, type r subs and PDX amps before I started there so had already learnt a fair bit. But there's so much more in car audio out there that most people dont even know about. Like Alpine type X's and Rockford Power series are still really only an entry level speaker. Things start getting really crazy when you get into stuff like Rainbow, Focal Utopia, audison etc. You can pay as much as $7,500 for a set of off-the-shelf splits. Then there's a few guys who build the speakers and subs to the exact specs of the car, where you can expect to pay 1/4 million bux for a system!
http://www.ryda.com.au/Kenwood-KAC-M615D-Mono-Amplifier-p/kacm615d.htm
Not all Autobarn stores are as bad as people make them out to be. Quite often the employess are actually very knowledgeable and arent just the 15 year old cheap labour. I used to work for Autobarn in Coffs but I had already done a full Eclipse sound system with 6.5's alround and two 12" subs, and then a full Alpine system with type x splits, type r subs and PDX amps before I started there so had already learnt a fair bit. But there's so much more in car audio out there that most people dont even know about. Like Alpine type X's and Rockford Power series are still really only an entry level speaker. Things start getting really crazy when you get into stuff like Rainbow, Focal Utopia, audison etc. You can pay as much as $7,500 for a set of off-the-shelf splits. Then there's a few guys who build the speakers and subs to the exact specs of the car, where you can expect to pay 1/4 million bux for a system!
12SHW LANCER
New Member
Yeah your right with the alpine being entry level, I always thought eclipse was top end. They are a great brand but kinda in the middle to what you can get on the market.
Joshyewahh
New Member
ull find alot of the time, the guys in the autobarn stores wana sound more knowledgeable then their customers, so they'll use thier audio talk n stuff, to make u think they know alot more then they actually know.
one tried this on me, n i was able to correct him on 2 things he said to me, but refused to lsiten to me... had to show him first hand to make him realise he was wrong haha
one tried this on me, n i was able to correct him on 2 things he said to me, but refused to lsiten to me... had to show him first hand to make him realise he was wrong haha
As I said, comes down to what you're looking to spend. Sound deadener is good, but not exactly cheap, and to do your boot you're looking at spending more than what the price range of the amp he is looking at is going to cost. No point buying cheap crap sound deadener, Dynamat is the only way to go.
In a system where a bit of money is being spent, and you want to go for a really nice sound or big db then yes I would def say sound deaden the *poo* out of the car. For a budget system build with a cheap sub and amp, I reckon you'd be wasting your money because the sound quality is not going to be that great to start with to warrant sound deadener. Ive got a mate whose pulling 148's in his pulsar (real 148db on termpro, not bull *poo* bogan figures), and he has 3 layers of dynamat covering pretty much the entire car. You tap the roof from the outside of the car and there is no movement at all lol, it's like hitting rock. But yeah, he spent close on 2 grand just on dynamat, and you dont want to know the rest of the costs involved in the build!
One thing I didnt mention about earlier, because it starts getting complicated now, is matching the ohms and RMS wattage, and dual voice coil vs. single voice coil. Do you know the exact model number of your sub? Post it up and I'll have a look at the specs on it, and tell you what sort of power at the right ohms you'll need to run it.
In a system where a bit of money is being spent, and you want to go for a really nice sound or big db then yes I would def say sound deaden the *poo* out of the car. For a budget system build with a cheap sub and amp, I reckon you'd be wasting your money because the sound quality is not going to be that great to start with to warrant sound deadener. Ive got a mate whose pulling 148's in his pulsar (real 148db on termpro, not bull *poo* bogan figures), and he has 3 layers of dynamat covering pretty much the entire car. You tap the roof from the outside of the car and there is no movement at all lol, it's like hitting rock. But yeah, he spent close on 2 grand just on dynamat, and you dont want to know the rest of the costs involved in the build!
One thing I didnt mention about earlier, because it starts getting complicated now, is matching the ohms and RMS wattage, and dual voice coil vs. single voice coil. Do you know the exact model number of your sub? Post it up and I'll have a look at the specs on it, and tell you what sort of power at the right ohms you'll need to run it.
ozz
New Member
Sorry but I disagree with that totally. Dynamat is hella expensive because of the name only & other products DO do the job exactly the same. I know that geo is working here with a minimal budget so I would be doing the doors only & not the boot area. Both doors can be done properly for under $200(inner & outer skin & sealed) so what he's doing Will yeild significant results & make his speakers blend in real nice with his sub instead of sounding tinny & cheap. I did both my doors and my boot for $150 & I did it bit by bit over a couple of weeks as finances allowed & the results are outstanding compared to non deadened. You sound like you know whats what with audio BI65ND so i'm really surprised you poo poo'ed the deadener when you would know what a difference it makes.
Dont get me wrong, I think its great stuff, I just dont believe it makes that much of a difference on a budget system. I had my lancer completely dynamated and it did improve it, but a cheap speaker will still sound like a cheap speaker regardless of deadening imo. Spray on underbody deadener that you can get from any auto shop would be a good cheap alternative for on a budget.
I used to see a lot of cars come in with the budget brand dynamat and it'd peel off and lose it's adhesiveness after a while. Not sure if it was the heat or moisture in the doors or what, but it'd just lose its stickiness...if thats a word. The Option Audio stuff was probably the worst for it. On the other hand, I had the dynamat brand n the lancer for 2 1/2 years, in the sun everyday for work, even after it got flooded it never came off.
Other downside of sound deadening, it adds a lot of weight lol
I used to see a lot of cars come in with the budget brand dynamat and it'd peel off and lose it's adhesiveness after a while. Not sure if it was the heat or moisture in the doors or what, but it'd just lose its stickiness...if thats a word. The Option Audio stuff was probably the worst for it. On the other hand, I had the dynamat brand n the lancer for 2 1/2 years, in the sun everyday for work, even after it got flooded it never came off.
Other downside of sound deadening, it adds a lot of weight lol
ozz
New Member
Ok, sorry BI65ND i'm not trying to pick a fight here so please don't get me wrong...I'm just speaking from my own experience here but yes a cheap speaker will always sound like a cheap speaker...BUT... I had a set of option audio OA60C's in the front of mine a fair while back & everyman & their dog was trying to talk me into sound deadening which I then believed to be a fad thing & everyone was doing it because everyone was doing it. I ended up talking with a great mate of mine that is a real pro with audio stuff & he convinced me that it was the way to go so I gave it a shot on one door. Once it was done I did the left/right channel thing & I swear blind that I had 2 entirely different speakers running. The side I deadened & sealed was so much richer, fuller & the mid bass was there compared to the right one undeadened which was all high pitched & tinny with bugger all mid bass. So for me there is no contest if it should be done or not no matter how good or cheap the speaker set up is...it just works.
Now as far as the option audio deadener is concerned, there is absolutely no issue with it sticking or peeling off. I have this brand in my car & have had for the last year & 1/2 and it has not lifted, peeled or fallen off because I prepared the surface properly. The ones you have seen where it has come off I will bet that it was just slapped on with no surface preparation whatsoever or at the least not done well enough.
I have a mate that lives around the corner (par14h http://www.auslancer.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=130) & he had some of the same deadener put into his boot from a local audio joint & they just slapped it on quick & dirty, needless to say it has since fallen off because of no surface prep.
Yes it adds weight, thats the point of it & how it works but to do just the doors you might be looking at an extra 5kg at the most so it's not really too much of an issue.
I've done my doors, the entire boot area & the boot lid, am carrying 2 amps, a set of splits, 6x9's(atm), a 12" sub & box & heavier guage wiring(probably an extra 40-50kg) in my old 4g15 & there is no issues with it getting up & going but the quality of sound is there & thats what I wanted for mine.
Now as far as the option audio deadener is concerned, there is absolutely no issue with it sticking or peeling off. I have this brand in my car & have had for the last year & 1/2 and it has not lifted, peeled or fallen off because I prepared the surface properly. The ones you have seen where it has come off I will bet that it was just slapped on with no surface preparation whatsoever or at the least not done well enough.
I have a mate that lives around the corner (par14h http://www.auslancer.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=130) & he had some of the same deadener put into his boot from a local audio joint & they just slapped it on quick & dirty, needless to say it has since fallen off because of no surface prep.
Yes it adds weight, thats the point of it & how it works but to do just the doors you might be looking at an extra 5kg at the most so it's not really too much of an issue.
I've done my doors, the entire boot area & the boot lid, am carrying 2 amps, a set of splits, 6x9's(atm), a 12" sub & box & heavier guage wiring(probably an extra 40-50kg) in my old 4g15 & there is no issues with it getting up & going but the quality of sound is there & thats what I wanted for mine.
Damplifier is a much better product than Dynamat from what i've read. The problem is it just doesn't have the brand name Dynamat behind it so no-one imports it into Asutralia. Because of this is makes it a bit dearer than Dynamat to import it yourself via airmail into Australia.
12SHW LANCER
New Member
I'm with bigsnd. I would only use dynamat, you can get it for $200 a box on eBay in aust.
And I have no issue with option audio, they are a great budget system. But if you put a higher priced speaker next to the OA's your gonna hear the difference with full sound deadening.
And I have no issue with option audio, they are a great budget system. But if you put a higher priced speaker next to the OA's your gonna hear the difference with full sound deadening.
Geophray
New Member
I'm not gonna be dynamat'ing anytime soon.
But this ones mainly for Sam/BI65ND (and other audio knowledgeable people)
Firstly, before I mention it, remember that I am on a budget. Thoughts on these: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... 1541wt_958
Says they're 125RMS each, which is double the amount of the Kenwoods I have atm.
But this ones mainly for Sam/BI65ND (and other audio knowledgeable people)
Firstly, before I mention it, remember that I am on a budget. Thoughts on these: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... 1541wt_958
Says they're 125RMS each, which is double the amount of the Kenwoods I have atm.
ozz
New Member
Man there's cheap & there's cheap. Do your ears a favour & don't skimp. Get the best quality you can even if it means saving up for a little while otherwise you will end up dissatisfied & end up spending more on upgrading. I think the general rule is spend 3/4 of your budget on front stage ie a good set of splits & worry about the rear fill later on when you can afford it.
I agree with MOR31 about those not being a true rms rating...besides you said you won't be amping them I think so really the rms isn't an issue because you won't be running them to their full potential. As MOR31 said, visit some audio shops & hear some diff sets to see what YOUR ears like & don't like.
I agree with MOR31 about those not being a true rms rating...besides you said you won't be amping them I think so really the rms isn't an issue because you won't be running them to their full potential. As MOR31 said, visit some audio shops & hear some diff sets to see what YOUR ears like & don't like.
12SHW LANCER
New Member
Geo like I said the other night, and like the guys are saying to you now. Where are your ears? In the front. Right. So focus on the front stage, and like I said 6x9s are just fill sound, you don't want anything over powering the front.
I'm suggestion is find a good set of splits, you can get alpine, DD, eclipse, crossfire around the 200 mark for 6.5 splits. They are all good brands on a budget. And then find a good small 2ch amp and power them up. After that look into subs and a mono block.
I'm suggestion is find a good set of splits, you can get alpine, DD, eclipse, crossfire around the 200 mark for 6.5 splits. They are all good brands on a budget. And then find a good small 2ch amp and power them up. After that look into subs and a mono block.