Lancer 4G93 Track build

Harley.C

Harley.C

New Member
First post so be gentle
Also I'm 17, and don't have much money to spend on mods (So wrecker upgrades) but eager to learn

I have so many questions
I want to upgrade my injectors as its still got the stock 210cc injectors and I was wondering what would be the cheapest injectors and or rail that gives significant fuel flow increase? Also do I need to upgrade the fuel pump as well? If so, also cheapest option
Then I'd need to upgrade my throttle body and intake to counteract the fuel increase, will any old relocated CAI pod filter do? And what can I pull a larger throttle body from?
Then I'll need a standalone system and a tune to run it all? Also, cheap but still adequate
Also if I get a standalone system would that mean I could then do a DOHC conversation??
Lowered spring? Coilovers? Less than $500?

Thank you again
Any feed back will be gratefully appreciated
 
For a track car the things to upgrade are brakes and tyres. You can run larger front rotors and callipers from a magna and I would suggest a 15 inch by 6.5 inch Wheels. A better seat is a good idea so you can use a harness seat belt. Learn how to drive slowly then upgrade power as your skills increase.
 
Welcome to the forum.
I think most veteran members will tell you than you'd be best to do supporting mods like brakes and suspension before engine mods. Once you can go fast around corners and stop well, then up the power. So look for brake upgrades, Coilovers, and a rear sway bar. Urethane bushes also tighten things up too.

Doing a DOHC conversion wouldn't be worth your while, parts are hard to get and expensive.
See if you can find Joshy's thread with his 1.8 SOHC, he did some interesting stuff with one.
 
Thank you,
Would lowering springs be worth my while? I have new monro shocks all around and it rides crazy high, I don't want to pay for coils
Also I'm planning on doing a Proton Wira brake swap next weekend as well
What exactly do I need?
What would I scavange sway bars from and do I just buy fresh bushing from Ebay?
Thanks I'll have a look for the thread now
 
Have you bought the car already? If not, I'd look at something that someone has already modded up. Then you can just tweak as needed. Would probably be cheaper.

But if you already have the car, I'd start with some decent tyres, decent pads, rear sway bar, anti lift kit, other bushes eg rear trailing arm, brake upgrade, coil overs <- in that order.
 
For the brake upgrade you need adapter plates, rotors, calipers, pads and handbrake cables to suit.
Get superlows if you want a lower ride but if it's a purpose built track car coils are better.
276mm brake upgradr from ftos and magnas is also good.
And you can also use rear sway bars from protons
 
Thanks guys, yeah I've already got the car. I want to learn how to work on my car and have fun doing it
Sweet so magna calipers will fit on a proton rear adapter plate or do I just put them on the front and stick to the proton calipers on the rear?
Worth upgrading the brake booster?
Also do I just get any sway bar from a proton or FTO? Are the proton ones much stiffer than a CE? Or is it really the fresh Urethane bushing that makes the difference?

I really appreciate the help guys
 
For a track car, the first and most important mod you have to do is to put a cage in it.
Then the brakes , bigger fronts and leave the drums on the back, they don't do that much and by putting disc on the rear will only add weight.
 
Also if anyone that reads this has does this stuff before and found good deals on stuff like bushing or a short shifter or SL Springs please don't hesitate to link addresses
 
Low springs (kings? Whiteline?)
New shocks
276mm front brakes /new pads
Brake Fluid flush
FTO master/booster
Rear swaybar
Front strut bar
Cold air feed to factory air box, kn filter
Maybe ditch stock rear muffler so you can hear it a bit better.
Good drivers seat, like a sparco fixed back.
Good Tyres.


That's all you'll need, Go to the track. Anything else won't net you as much gain with out spending big coin.
 
Keep an eye to the various Facebook pages for parts.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1526198444269407/?ref=bookmarks
https://www.facebook.com/groups/mitsuparts/?ref=group_browse_new
https://www.facebook.com/groups/MitsubishiLancerBuySwapSellAndPartsTareeNSW/?ref=group_browse_new
https://www.facebook.com/groups/590016724369349/?ref=group_browse_new
Things pop up all the time.
If your Sydney based, it also might pay sign up to Pick n Payless site and get notifications of new cars wrecking.

I'm not in total agreement with Zipper about getting a cage in first thing.
Cages can be stupid expensive, I know plenty of guys who do track days currently(mainly because I'm in a track driving club), only one or two have a cage. Many cars I see on track days are daily drivers, they drive them in and drive them home again end of the day. If you can get a cage at a good price get it, if you know someone who can build one for you without taking out a home loan, awesome!

If you at least get your wheels/tyres, brakes and suspension sorted, you can get out there and get the feel for it. As you get more serious for it. Then look at taking it further.

If your going to change bushes, just buy new from Peps or Repco or who ever.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mitsubis...731190?hash=item4164e6f276:g:w90AAMXQatBScCfK
^^^^ above is the short shifter many of us here have bought, from this seller. Quality kit.
 
Having been involved in motorsport from club level to national and international level, there is NOTHING more important than safety first. I have seen some very bad crashes and even cars rolling in motorkhanas, so to not put a cage in is just irresponsible. I just made a half cage for our Cheap car challange car for $250, so its not out of reach.
 
Sweet so magna calipers will fit on a proton rear adapter plate or do I just put them on the front and stick to the proton calipers on the rear? Magna calipers (276mm) can work on the fronts but can't use magna discs unless you get them redrilled to 4x100 or whatever your pcd is. Same with FTO as they are both 5 stud. Either buy blank rotors and redrill them or redrill the used FTO/magna calipers. Otherwise it's a bolt-on conversion. Protons are 4stud so with the rears you need the adapter plate to change from drum to disc brakes. Then the rotor and caliper go on that and connect the new handbrake cables to the disc brakes (get satria/coupe cables for a mirage, or get sedan cables and cross them over to opposite sides because they will be slightly longer, crossing them takes some of the length away). In saying this you don't actually need rear disc brakes, the front are what you really wanna upgrade. Protons have 256mm brakes which is also a slight upgrade from stock but obviously 276mm is better.
Worth upgrading the brake booster? Up to you. Only worth it if you do every supporting mod like braided lines, slotted rotors and bitey pads etc. Will just make the pedal more firm so you can try to brake more evenly but it's not necessary.
Also do I just get any sway bar from a proton or FTO? Are the proton ones much stiffer than a CE? Or is it really the fresh Urethane bushing that makes the difference? Lancers don't have rear sway bars, Protons and FTOs etc do. Size isn't the important factor here, actually having a rear sway bar no matter the size, stock or aftermarket, is what you're after. Usually you try to match the sizes pretty closely and from memory the front is.... 14mm? Aftermarket ones sit between 20 and 25mm but you don't wanna stiffen one end way more than the other so try to keep them the same size.

Also *fudge* a cage.
 
Awesome
I should have said this first but the car is my daily driver until I get a second so I won't be doing any crazy big mods until then, just brakes and handling
So I've decided I'll go with proton brakes and rotors all around (I like the look of all discs)
I've ordered the short shifter (Thanks ARC)
I'm also from Bundaberg (4hrs north of Brisbane)
And I'll pinch a rear sway bar when I grab the brakes
What's everyones take on pod filters? I knooow they don't give power but I like the induction sound and it would be cool to pump a CAI under the battery to where the resonator box is factory? Or relocate the battery closer to the strut tower and plum it behind the light?
And yes when I do get a second car, first thing I'm getting done is a cage
Thanks guys
 
Zipper, that is an ultimate extreme. There's no way he'll be running at that level right away.
But it is a magnificent example of how a cage will save your life.

Zipper said:
Having been involved in motorsport from club level to national and international level, there is NOTHING more important than safety first. I have seen some very bad crashes and even cars rolling in motorkhanas, so to not put a cage in is just irresponsible. I just made a half cage for our Cheap car challange car for $250, so its not out of reach.
Click to expand...

I'm not at all denying that safety is important, as your involvement has been substantial you'll know bucket loads of amateurs take their dailies out to track days without going to the level of safety of a cage. I've never really had an interest in track days till this year, so have done a few days this year waving flags and scrutineering at Eastern Creek, so I've seen the cars that come through. From stock dailies to trailered in racecars. It goes to show any newbie with a L2S license can go racing.

One thing Zipper mentioned above which I love is motokhana, it would probably really good for you @Harley.C and be a great start for you to learn car control and have a bit of fun without the worry of high speed accidents. Just losing a few seconds off your time for knocking over a cone. I rarely get out of first gear so It's not fast like on an open track, but it's more technical. I'd highly recommend it if you can find a place that does it up your way. I've tried to get all the long time regs on auslancer to come on a motorkhana with me, but they're all girly boys who'd rather have chats around their modified cars at maccas talking about mods that see little to no practical use. :tongueout:

Here's a vid of one of my runs a few months back.

 
You need to grab the LCAs with the sway bar as Lancers don't have the brackets to bolt just the bar itself on. May aswell also get the Proton booster/master cyl while you're getting the brakes. 15/16" is bigger than stock.
 
Yes Zipper I will definitely. Once I get to track racing Ill get a full roll cage, I have seen that video before and I know how important cages are
That's awesome ARC! I was planning on starting with Motorkhana! I can't wait!
I'd definitely run with you if I'm ever down south
Thanks Rigby I will
 
Ill come out and have a run in a khana at the creek. Do I have to be an ARCD member or any club ok?
Khanas are a great way to learn car control and you don't need a cage but having one will stiffen the car.
I know that video is extreme but it can and doe's happen. I was at a super sprint at Amaroo, there was a guy running a Bellet GT with a turbo twin cam and no cage. He got a little sideways going through the kink up the hill, the rear wheel dug in and the car rolled end for end 6 times, he was lucky that it landed on every part of the car except the roof above the driver, if it had landed on that part of the car he would not have walked away from it.
A friends old LA lancer fell over in a khana, he had a cage but it was only a light roll on to it roof
 
Glenn, the more the merrier. Would be great to have you. You don't have to be a ARDC member, Just a L2S CAMS License.
http://www.rtdc.com.au/event-registration - is where you sign up.
You can join the club if you like and get a discount on the event cost. Worthwhile if you do the whole year or do multiple events in a year.
With any luck I'll see you out there. I know I will be, I'm already paid up.
 
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