Help - Total Power Loss

I bumped the idle screw up to that level because I'm fairly sure my ISCV is rooted, and when warm the car drops to 600ish rpm and stalls without any throttle. Bumped idle screw brought it to 800-900ish when warm so it doesn't stall. That problem disappears after about 10 minutes of driving as well, it's not constant. If the car was run, then parked for 20-60minutes, that idling issue occurs. If it is started again after a short amount of time or let cool down more, no issue at all. *mum* to diagnose.

TPS was tested and adjusted before and during the intermittent power loss so I doubt that could be the cause but I guess I can check it again.

And no to the water/rain, nothing more than any other car goes through. Cat is stock.
 
Not sure what motor you have 1.8 lt i guess ?, i don't think that this is the problem as both the ISVC and EGR valve are more to do with rough runing/idlying problems not power loss, but you have tried plenty of fixes already, so anyway, you need to remove the ISVC, once is removed lay it on top of your engine on a large rag, turn your ign on till you get the red ign lights but dont start it, grab the plug for the ISCV and plug it back in and listen/feel for any movement or vibration within the unit. If you don't hear anything take it apart and clean it, if it seems to work clean it anyway just to be sure..
Just use carby cleaner on everything plug it into the car again as per the above step with a bit of carby cleaner inside as it moves, try and clean the motor/solenoid shaft using the c/cleaner if you like you can also clean the throttle body itself as there will also be a build up in there too, replace gasket if all good.
Also did you ever do a compression test on the engine at all yet? I'll run this one by my son as well in the morn, he is a specialist mechanic for repco and see if he has ever come across it before.
 
missed your last post while i was typing response, are you talking about power loss while driving or is it more like idle fluctuations, if idle it may well be the ISVC, just check it out, you can buy just the motor/solenoid for a CG/CH for about $60.00 if its faulty, new assembly is around $500 + , as you said CC one is around is around $300 - $375 range.
 
Yeah power loss while driving, the *poo*ty idle has always been a separate, non-related issue that has plagued the car since purchase. I haven't done a compression test no, and I'm scared to do one since the motor has quite a few kms haha. I'll clean the ISCV, TB and check the TPS tomorrow and see how that goes...
 
I'm still having this issue. I change the oil ( I put in thinner oil ) problem goes away. A few thousand kays and the issue comes back until I change the oil again. I even changed the leads back to my old ones to see if this was causing some sort of strange issue but no, only changing the oil works. If you have new lifters and they aren't noisy maybe it is a dodgy knock sensor?

I've also changed to a Sard fuel pressure regulator (This is supposed to fix the Satria GTI flat spot off the line, and it appears to) .. still doesn't stop the issue with the car feeling like a slug again a few thousand kays after the oil change.

The problem with the idle sounds like what happened to me after I changed the leads. I'd pulled off one of the vaccum lines as it was getting in the way. Drove around the block and the idle was erratic. Had a look and realised what I had done.

This sounds odd but it appears that the weather can affect how it is running too. If it is cool and the car has warmed up it appears to run ok again....

This problem occurred after getting a whole heap of work done at a mechanic. The motor was ripped out seals replaced and a whole bunch of stuff. I'm sure it will be something simple but since I got totally ripped off by the mechanic I'm doing all the work on my car myself (Well unless I know I'll need a hoist).

I read on some Malaysian forum of a way to fix the issue with the idle (if it's not the vaccum line). I did it nt long after getting ripped off by the mechanic. I skipped the voltage meter and timing stuff as I don't have a voltage meter and have no idea with the timing (though I do wonder if the issue with my car is the timing as my friendly neighbourhood ripoff mechanic changed the timing belt)..... (I did this even though it is for a 1.6 Wira cos I figured it couldn't hurt)...

I only did from "2) Turn OFF engine"....

Link is here :

https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/728246/all

Here is what you need;

1) flat or Phillips screw driver
2) or no. 8 spanner
3) digital volt meter (must be digital)

Firstly, check the followings;

1) timing set to 12° BTDC (variable range is 8° - 18°) you can set to proper value after adjustment depending on the fuel U use
2) make sure TB Servo is working properly (hot start engine should rev above 1000RPM then drop below that after a couple of seconds)

MUST;
a) set to proper timing of 12° BTDC if not done
b) if TB Servo not working, have it changed

Without meeting a) & b) requirements, this adjustment procedure won't work.

After that, here is the easy part;

1) Start your engine or turn car key to ON position
- measure TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) the 2 green terminals
- variable range must be between 0.5 - 0.95 volts, U try which value is suitable for your car, mind is 0.5 - 0.6 (nice & stable)
2) Turn OFF engine, make sure car key is in OFF position
- turn the air bleed screw all the way clockwise until it locks, not tight - just lock
3) Start the engine & let it run for a minute or so
- engine should open the idle servo to compensate for the lack of air
- engine should automatically rev to >1000RPM then steadily drop to 600/700RPM
4) Engine still running after 1 minute (take your time, let the engine figure out what to do)
- turn air bleed screw 1 full turn anti-clockwise
- engine should again rev >1000RPM then drop to 700RPM or so
5) Let it run a minute or so again
- now ON air-con
- engine should react immediately to the extra load
- ON & OFF air-con a couple of times between intervals of 30 second or so
6) You may turn the air bleed anti-clockwise more, if air-con idle too low
- range is usually 1 - 2.5 turns anti-clockwise

* You are done

If I ever get this problem solved I'll come back here and let you know...
 
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Thanks guys. Gonna attempt some of this tonight and see what difference it makes. Also going to see a specialist in the coming week and if they manage to find the culprit I'll update this thread, but if you still have any more ideas before that, I'm all ears.
 
Hi rigby, If your car uses an computer . Borrow a computer, change over shops should be willing to do this, then if this is the problem purchase a reco: unit from them.

Happened to me years ago in an Ausy: Skyline. Got to the stage, where I took off at the intersection when traffic lights turned green and was still trying to clear the intersection when the traffic lights turned red.

That was it! Fitted Reco: ECU all fixed for the next 14 years. Hope this helps.

PS dumb question but have you checked your fuel filter and fuel lines for obstructions. Also friend had a Mercedes. Ran OK then every now and then refused to even start, tried everything.
Took it to a Mercedes specialist, said Ill fix it $400 Your problem is someone has put Ethanol fuel in this car. Have to drain it completely and put a ? gas through the system. All fixed.

Did you use ethanol when this happened? Would it affect these cars anyway, just a thought.
 
Fuel filter and pump have been replaced in the last 6 months, fuel lines I don't know about. I'm inclined to think they're fine since I've been running rich since forever, it's hardly starving for fuel haha.

I have also swapped from a proton m21 to gsr to proton m21 to proton gti to proton m21 ecu, no changes in regards to the issue.

And I never use e10 petrol, 91 at the very least. E10 shouldn't affect lancers in general unless high comp or turbo (mine is kinda high comp so I never use it).

It's hard to describe the power loss. Think as if you're waiting for the turbo to kick in and it just never does, lag forever. Can still get to 100 easily, just takes a while. Car revs freely, just makes *Richard* all power when it does it.

Thank you for your suggestions
 
A tooth out will effect it JFYI


The isc shouldnt effect much. I have ran without 1 and no issues.

Other things to check are fpr, afm, knock sensor, also make sure the timing jumper isnt earthed after they set the timing.

Do you know what they set timing at?
 
EVL20T said:
A tooth out will effect it JFYI


The isc shouldnt effect much. I have ran without 1 and no issues.

Other things to check are fpr, afm, knock sensor, also make sure the timing jumper isnt earthed after they set the timing.

Do you know what they set timing at?
Click to expand...

Not a clue, what should it be set at? FPR might be another thing to look into since it's been mentioned twice, any way of checking if that's faulty or are the symptoms the indication? AFM I'm assuming is fine, have tried different ones and they didn't affect anything but I also cleaned it today so when I put it back together we'll see.

Are my symptoms those of being a tooth out or would it be more severe than just power loss? And is there a way to check the knock sensor?

What is a timing jumper and how do I check if it's earthed? This is all new ground for me, sorry for the newbness.
 
Cleaned the AFM and it's plug/pins, cleaned and re-oiled my panel filter, dumped some fuel additive into the fuel tank and double checked the tps was adjusted correctly. Bumped the idle screw back up as well, will report on it tomorrow.
 
I didn't, What I meant to say is I feel as if it could have slipped one tooth due to oil leaking onto it, and the mechanics replaced the belt, also one tooth out, thinking it was the already in the right position and not already 1 tooth out.
 
The change of FPR didn't fix the issue with my gti ... just got rid of the flat spot that is inherent using the standard Proton FPR. As your issue sounds like the one I've been having I'm not sure the FPR would be the answer...
 
Wouldn't hurt to kill a flat spot though seeing as I have the same engine. And just another thing I can rule out.

The AFM cleaning etc got my car like 5% of it's power back if that. So.... yay? Booked in Wednesday morning to see diagnostic wizards.
 
I still recon it could be ECU. So many things similar To problems I had with my skyline. (1) Would not start then after numerous try's bang OK. (2) Driving along under 80kph dash lights up car stops hit starter away it goes.
(3) Driving along over 80kph dash lights flash on momentary engine cuts out then dash lights flash off, car just continues on normally. (4) Occasionally put your foot down and nothing happens car just limps forward. Worst and finally
stopped at traffic lights, lights turn green, take off, still trying to clear intersection, lights turn red, still trying to clear intersection. Lucky reach my Office just 200 meters away. Rang my mechanic and he brought over a
change over reco computer. Everything fixed for the next 14 years I had the car.
 
Unfortunately none of those symptoms are happening to me. The only thing is sluggish performance. Very sluggish. 0-100 is now a 15ish second thing instead of 8ish seconds. No issues at any speed, just no balls anymore. Everything revs and moves freely. No lights on or off or any issue like that. Spark is fine, starts first time every time.
 
Have you put a fuel cleaner through it? Liquimoly do a ripper one that does everything on its way through
 
I have, don't remember the brand but I did use that brand as the AFM cleaner. Didn't seem to make a difference. Might do some injector cleaner next but it still runs rich so I don't think it's fuel related
 
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