Liom the Chef
Member
Rad000 and myself took it upon ourselves to swap over the CH mivecs brake pads to EBC green stuffs, and figured we might as well take a few pictures and make a quick write up if anyone else felt like doing something similar.
First things first, loosen the wheel nuts and jack the car up, fit it safely on stands, didn't take pictures of this but I'm sure you've gotten this far before.
Once the cars jacked up remove the wheels and have a good look at the disc/caliper.
turn the steering wheel in the appropriate direction to get easier access to the caliper.
To start with typically people use a coat hanger to hook the caliper onto and hang it from the car to prevent the need to remove brake hoses, we didn't do this as there were two of us and we wanted to handle it a lot for photo's
First things first for the front calipers, slightly loosen the two bolts connecting the frame of the caliper, pictures as the two outer bolts, this is just to make it easier to remove later as unfortunately on the fronts to fit the pad spreader in it needs to be taken off. Then remove the two inner bolts securing the caliper to the disc, pictures with the black wd-40 staining.
once you've safely removed it from the disc (it's a little heavy) and the inner nuts are quite tight, we used my little auxiliary powered ratchet gun to loosen them (best 40 dollars I ever spent)
At this point pop the pads out of the caliper, didn't take a photo of this as it's easy done.
After that remove the caliper frame so you can fit your caliper piston spreader in the groove (a clamp also works)
At this point you want to use your caliper piston spreader to push the piston back to fit the new brake pad in the appropriate groove, make sure you have your brake fluid reservoir cap open as this can force some excess fluid up, not as big an issue if you're planning to bleed/drain and replace your fluid but we weren't.
at this point it should look like this
Then it's a matter of re-securing the caliper frame tightening the nuts, then replacing the brake pads into the slots left by the previous pads, attaching the shims to the back of the pad, ours are pictured below.
at this point slide the caliper back onto the disc (after swapping it over if you're changing the discs as well they just slide straight off), then line the bolt thread up to appropriate slot behind the disc. securing it as pictured.
And by this point you've finished, repeat the process for the other side after making sure it's all secure.
The only difference for the rear discs are the scale you're working at as they're much smaller, another thing to note is for the rears you don't need to remove the frame of the caliper in order to compress the piston, it's actually easoer as it's quite difficult to remove one side of the frame as the brake line runs directly across it.
If i've missed anything, or said something incorrect let me know and I'll correct it.
And before anyone comments on the ghetto cable ties, the coilovers don't have the mounting point for them :lol:
After fitting new brake pads keep in mind that it takes some time for them to bed in appropriately depending on the brand you're using, go easy to start with until brake effectiveness is restored
I take no responsibility for any issues that may arise when following my DIY guide.
Thanks to rad000 for the use of his car port and his help and advice showing me how to do them
First things first, loosen the wheel nuts and jack the car up, fit it safely on stands, didn't take pictures of this but I'm sure you've gotten this far before.
Once the cars jacked up remove the wheels and have a good look at the disc/caliper.
turn the steering wheel in the appropriate direction to get easier access to the caliper.
To start with typically people use a coat hanger to hook the caliper onto and hang it from the car to prevent the need to remove brake hoses, we didn't do this as there were two of us and we wanted to handle it a lot for photo's
First things first for the front calipers, slightly loosen the two bolts connecting the frame of the caliper, pictures as the two outer bolts, this is just to make it easier to remove later as unfortunately on the fronts to fit the pad spreader in it needs to be taken off. Then remove the two inner bolts securing the caliper to the disc, pictures with the black wd-40 staining.
once you've safely removed it from the disc (it's a little heavy) and the inner nuts are quite tight, we used my little auxiliary powered ratchet gun to loosen them (best 40 dollars I ever spent)
At this point pop the pads out of the caliper, didn't take a photo of this as it's easy done.
After that remove the caliper frame so you can fit your caliper piston spreader in the groove (a clamp also works)
At this point you want to use your caliper piston spreader to push the piston back to fit the new brake pad in the appropriate groove, make sure you have your brake fluid reservoir cap open as this can force some excess fluid up, not as big an issue if you're planning to bleed/drain and replace your fluid but we weren't.
at this point it should look like this
Then it's a matter of re-securing the caliper frame tightening the nuts, then replacing the brake pads into the slots left by the previous pads, attaching the shims to the back of the pad, ours are pictured below.
at this point slide the caliper back onto the disc (after swapping it over if you're changing the discs as well they just slide straight off), then line the bolt thread up to appropriate slot behind the disc. securing it as pictured.
And by this point you've finished, repeat the process for the other side after making sure it's all secure.
The only difference for the rear discs are the scale you're working at as they're much smaller, another thing to note is for the rears you don't need to remove the frame of the caliper in order to compress the piston, it's actually easoer as it's quite difficult to remove one side of the frame as the brake line runs directly across it.
If i've missed anything, or said something incorrect let me know and I'll correct it.
And before anyone comments on the ghetto cable ties, the coilovers don't have the mounting point for them :lol:
After fitting new brake pads keep in mind that it takes some time for them to bed in appropriately depending on the brand you're using, go easy to start with until brake effectiveness is restored
I take no responsibility for any issues that may arise when following my DIY guide.
Thanks to rad000 for the use of his car port and his help and advice showing me how to do them