Amp?

[LATEZ91]

Hey guys
I dont understand what kind of amp u need to run stuff. at the moment i have a 400Watt kenwood amp and clarion speakers 6" or 6.5". dunno what type or how many watts etc.. I want to get Type-R 6-1/2" Component 2-Way Speaker (SPR-17s) for the doors and Type-R 6 x 9" Coaxial 2-Way Speaker (SPR-69c) for the back. if i got those would my kenwood 400watt amp be fine to run them and sound good? because i heard that the type R's are pretty good. coz at the moment i have literally no bass and it is really frustrating. lol.

 

[cesario]

im not too knowledgeable on this stuff either, but i do know if you want a bit more performance/clarity in your speaker a better amp would be ideal
also (imo) upgrade the standard wiring for the speakers to the amp, cause you will notice a diff between 12ga and 16ga(or whatever is stock)
does you head unit have rca preouts for the amp?
as for understanding the watts, rms, 2/3/4ch speaker etc... nfi lol
but im sure someone has a link handy that id like to read too

 

[Geophray]

Not very knowledgeable in the audio department, but I shall share what I know. Wait until BI65ND finds this topic and shares his wisdom (John and Sam are quite knowledgeable also).

*fudge* off with that Kenwood *poo*. Just don't buy Kenwood. End of story.

It all depends really on the rated/RMS wattage of the speakers. They should definitely say them on there somewhere, but don't get fooled by the MAX power. *poo* audio companies (i.e. Kenwood, Clarion, Sony, etc.) will advertise the *poo* out of their MAX power so it appeals to wankers who think good audio comes from a $100 note. MAX power doesn't mean *poo* if it hasn't got the RMS power and a good crossover point.

I couldn't personally suggest a good audio brand/RMS wattage to go by, but from advice given from Sam - look in to some Digital Designs gear. Extremely good equipment for when you don't want to spend a *poo* load on extremely good gear (i.e. Morel, etc.).

 

[ozz]

I have a vibe 4x75w amp running my front & rear splits that does the job very nicely. It's not the absolute best brand out there but a long way from the worst. I think each of my splits are rated at 120rms & think from memory that the Alpines are similar rms so any amp pumping out at least 75 would be suitable.
Really it comes down to budget & what you want to achieve with audio, one thing though is sound deaden & seal your doors cause no matter what speakers you run with the deadening will bring out the full sound of your purchase instead of being tinny.

 

[MOR31]

this will run them for a lil while

 

[tryg]

Another good brand, that isn't WAY-OUT expensive is POLK. There are 3 different series, so people have a choice of quality and price ranges... I bought in the middle, MM Series. Absolutely stunning sound and a clean, clean sound too. Polk are an American brand, still made in China. Definitely not cheap rubbish though.

I have 2 Polk and one Kenwood Amp in my car. The Kenwood is an 1800w Digital Mono-block, for the sub. The other two are MM Momo Series 4-channel bridged amps, running MM series Coax and Splits. The sub is a 1500w MM series Polk, in a Kenwood enclosure. All up, you would need to spend about $2500 for that package. But you would not be top or bottom shelf, great SQL and not bad SPL either.

Just my 2c

 

[nzau]

Another good brand, that isn't WAY-OUT expensive is POLK.

Ok, I'm pretty knowledgeable on audio gear, I guess lol. Stay away from Polk they are no good, same as Kenwood. Mono/2/3/4 channel just means how many channels the amp has. Each channel can have one set of wires plugged in to it. As for RMS and Peak, Peak doesn't mean *poo*. RMS is all you should look at, and the quality of the coils.

Say your splits are 300RMS, you would need an amp that can handle 300WRMS on one channel. Now say you add another set of splits that are 300WRMS, you would need a 600WRMS 2ch amp that can run 300WRMS on each channel. Usually the more channels you add to an amp the less it can run. For example, a 560WRMS 4ch amp would be able to run 560W on one channel, 250WRMS on two channels, 150WRMS on three etc, etc.

Anyway, as for brands that really depends on your budget. Top of the line in my opinion is Digital Designs, Alpine, Clarion, McIntosh (this brand is amazing), MTX, Rockford Fosgate, DLS, Hifonics. Midrange are: Kicker, Soundstream, JL Audio, Nakamichi (Japanese), Alphasonik, Kicker, Audison, MB Quartz, Hertz. Entry level amplifiers are things from JB Hifi and Autobarn. Stay away from Sony, Kenwood, and definitely POLK! and Chinese crap.

Out of those if you want a nice solid sound, to play metal and the likes, go with Nakamichi and/or MB Quartz.

And to answer your question, I will assume that the speakers are 110WRMS each. So yes they would run fine (most likely) on your amp, if it's two channel. Also, if you want bass why not get a subwoofer?

 

[tryg]

Another good brand, that isn't WAY-OUT expensive is POLK.

Ok, I'm pretty knowledgeable on audio gear, I guess lol. Stay away from Polk they are no good

Excuse me, but that is personal opinion and have you ever owned MM series or SR series Polk? Funnily, you mentioned your brand choices and most of those are assembled in China, unless you buy the extreme high-end...

I said Polk was mid-shelf. I happen to have a Kenwood DDX-8034BT, and its an awesome headunit. I am sure you will have disparaging things to say about it, but lets see yours...

I spent $4500 almost on mine and its very clear and quite loud.

I don't think many of the readers on here are looking at $25K systems, now do you??

Thanks for the hate. :clap:

 

[tryg]

Best not to flame people's choices on here, because;

a) you have just stated your expertise, what do you own a Car Audio shop? I believe you stated earlier on this site, that you currently have Sony 'rubbish' (your words, not mine) and you're looking to update it with Alpine Type R. Good choice, but I am afraid to say, only mid-range stuff too.... not exactly a Type X buyer yourself, eh!? , and

b) RESPECT other's point of view.

 

[MOR31]

im with TRYG, and as if audison are mid range, yes they have cheaper range than the thesis but for what your payin you get a far better amp that any other big brand.


look at mdclear thread , by far the best audio system on this fourm

 

[nzau]

Bought t5's and Quartz gear now(Y) How old is that thread huh?

As for you saying assembled in China, everything is... obviously?

4.5k is way too expensive if you are running Polk (is that including the head unit though cause that thing is like 2k?). You got ripped off. 25k systems my ass, maybe if you are looking to buy a 30,000WRMS amp.

Also, what's wrong with me stating my knowledge? I never said I was an expert; just quite knowledgeable. I know form trial, just like many others, that Polk are not-too-flash.

Do you enjoy being a hypocrite? If you don't get why you are then read your posts a couple more times...

 

[Ryan]

Say your splits are 300RMS, you would need an amp that can handle 300WRMS on one channel. Now say you add another set of splits that are 300WRMS, you would need a 600WRMS 2ch amp that can run 300WRMS on each channel.

No the rating of your speakers is the MAX they can take. You don't have to have an amp as big but at the same point you shouldn't massively undersize the amp. The importance is that you tune the gain so that if the amp is lower rated than the speakers you won't clip and if the amp is rated higher than the speakers you don't run the gains to high to avoid overpowering.

Usually the more channels you add to an amp the less it can run. For example, a 560WRMS 4ch amp would be able to run 560W on one channel, 250WRMS on two channels, 150WRMS on three etc, etc.

This is oh so very wrong. Generally you will find an amp is sold and the stated power figure is all the channels combined. Take for example the JL Audio 300/4 (a very nice amp and can be picked up for a good buy at a JB HiFi) it is rated at 300W RMS combined for all channels where each individual channel is only capable of only delivering 75WRMS. What you can do though is bridge two of the channels together and get a 150WRMS output to power large speakers or a sub (not ideal though as you should use a Class D amp for a subwoofer due to higher efficiency levels).

Anyway, as for brands that really depends on your budget. Top of the line in my opinion is Digital Designs, Alpine, Clarion, McIntosh (this brand is amazing), MTX, Rockford Fosgate, DLS, Hifonics. Midrange are: Kicker, Soundstream, JL Audio, Nakamichi (Japanese), Alphasonik, Kicker, Audison, MB Quartz, Hertz. Entry level amplifiers are things from JB Hifi and Autobarn. Stay away from Sony, Kenwood, and definitely POLK! and Chinese crap.

1. Clarion is bargain basement crap, not top end. The slits I have tried of there's were dearer than Type R's but in my opinion worse than Type S coaxials.
2. You do realise JB sell stuff like JL Audio and Kicker don't you?? You contradict yourself in what you say!

 

[tryg]

hey, I promise not to heed the advice of a guy half my age! Actually, you had better educate me where I am being hypocritical.. I never suggested your choices were not sound, or rubbished you...

I had Alpine in cars way before you were born probably... I never said they were not good, just defending Polk, which are not rubbish. Like I suggested earlier, if you, like me, have owned a lot of systems, then you might say Polk is reasonably good value for money.

I don't think I was ripped off at all.. I bought from one of Australia's cheapest sellers (RYDA) and they took care of me... that price was for 3 amps, an enclosure, sub, headunit, cabling, SWI JAC, speakers and 3 Dynamat Extreme bulk kits. I think I did very, very well.

Why don't you post up some AWESOME pics of your ride, since you have none, so we can all see your excellent system...

Spend less time looking like an @ss on here, respect other's choices...

 

[MOR31]

Why don't you post up some AWESOME pics of your ride, since you have none, so we can all see your excellent system...

Spend less time looking like an @ss on here, respect other's choices...

this

Bought t5's and Quartz gear now(Y) How old is that thread huh?

As for you saying assembled in China, everything is... obviously? wrong

4.5k is way too expensive if you are running Polk (is that including the head unit though cause that thing is like 2k?). You got ripped off. 25k systems my ass, maybe if you are looking to buy a 30,000WRMS amp.

Also, what's wrong with me stating my knowledge? I never said I was an expert; just quite knowledgeable. I know form trial, just like many others, that Polk are not-too-flash. polk are good for there price, if i wasnt goin as silly as i am with my system i would be lookin at polk maybe
Do you enjoy being a hypocrite? If you don't get why you are then read your posts a couple more times...if you say so

 

[tryg]

this will run them for a lil while

Oh, me likey !!!


I would love these, but I might put them in the wife's Renault Megane Convertible.. not waste it on my boggy ES!!!

 

[mdclear]

All i can say is WTF

Top of the line in my opinion is Digital Designs, Alpine=NO, Clarion=NO, McIntosh (this brand is amazing)<---Sounds like the computer, MTX=NO, Rockford Fosgate=NO, DLS, Hifonics. Midrange are: Kicker, Soundstream, JL Audio, Nakamichi (Japanese), Alphasonik, Kicker, Audison, MB Quartz, Hertz.

This hole sentance is crap... Audison and hertz will smash the F out of any other thing listed here, match any of the side by side price range any eat your words...

 

[MOR31]

All i can say is WTF

Top of the line in my opinion is Digital Designs, Alpine=NO, Clarion=NO, McIntosh (this brand is amazing)<---Sounds like the computer, MTX=NO, Rockford Fosgate=NO, DLS, Hifonics. Midrange are: Kicker, Soundstream, JL Audio, Nakamichi (Japanese), Alphasonik, Kicker, Audison, MB Quartz, Hertz.

This hole sentance is crap... Audison and hertz will smash the F out of any other thing listed here, match any of the side by side price range any eat your words...

was waitin for you to get in on this

 

[mdclear]

you don't spend 18g on audio instal and listen to people saying it mid range...lol

 

[MOR31]

you don't spend 18g on audio instal and listen to people saying it mid range...lol

spech when all the gear in my missis car is being called midrange but still kicks the crap out of system 2-3 times the amount

 

[mdclear]

yeah, there is nothing that comes close to touching this stuff