Riley's CE Coupe 4G94 2.1L Build
- Thread starter Starke02
- Start date
Starke02
Active Member
The downside of buying my injectors are that I bought them used. They have been refurbished and cleaned but I dont feel comfortable using used injectors without them being flow tested so I will have to do that in the next few weeks before I get my cam.
Ill also have to check if the valves are sealing completely but I can do that at home. I may have to get the head shaved as little as possible to ensure its nice and flat before fitting to the block as there's some head gasket material left which I cant remove without damaging it myself. Maybe I'll shave by 10 thou or so to increase compression a little but I have to work out valve to piston clearance. I also only have a standard oem mitsu head gasket so yeah
Ill also have to check if the valves are sealing completely but I can do that at home. I may have to get the head shaved as little as possible to ensure its nice and flat before fitting to the block as there's some head gasket material left which I cant remove without damaging it myself. Maybe I'll shave by 10 thou or so to increase compression a little but I have to work out valve to piston clearance. I also only have a standard oem mitsu head gasket so yeah
Starke02
Active Member
With everything I've removed from the car including the new wheels and all that I reckon the car is probably weighing around 870kg or so. I may decide to go with lexan passenger and driver windows but the car will be used both as a daily and a light duty track car and lexan scratches and hazes easily. I'll also one day try and find a fibreglass bonnet thats looks like an oem metal bonnet. I dont want those gay ricer bonnets with vents and crap and im not even sure if anyone even makes just a standard looking fibreglass bonnet so r.i.p
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Hi Starke02, great build thread so far man. Really interesting to see people buy these cars and modify them from the base up, brings back memories for myself! I also like your direction of weight reduction and mods youve done so far as that are the type of things i did. Looking forward to seeing more progress!
in regards to the dry ice, in my experience you can buy them without a licence from BOC Gas & Gear in Wetheril Park - although the last time i bought some was in early 2020, so maybe things have changed? I would give them a call for that if your interested.
in regards to the dry ice, in my experience you can buy them without a licence from BOC Gas & Gear in Wetheril Park - although the last time i bought some was in early 2020, so maybe things have changed? I would give them a call for that if your interested.
Starke02
Active Member
When I went to some dry ice companies near me they said I needed a commercial license to purchase, but maybe that was only in large quantities? Dunno but already removed it all so nvm
Starke02
Active Member
To let the cam breathe even more, I've opted to go for a custom intake manifold and larger throttle body from Luis. If I were to buy this from RPW itd cost around 1500 bucks maybe a little more and with Luis products itd cost me a little over 900 or so, and I dont think there's a quality difference. I have no doubt ill get at the least a 37hp gain, from 113hp to 150hp, with the tb, larger intake manifold, ported head and stage 3 cam.
Starke02
Active Member
When I've finished building and installing the head and all its accessories, I'll upgrade the clutch to a stage 1 exedy clutch which is nice enough to still use on the street, then I'll get a lightened flywheel. Probably not the best on street, especially on uphill driving as there won't be much inertia compared to the stock flywheel but eh gotta make sacrifices somewhere right?
With lightweight components in mind, ill also look at getting a lightweight crank pulley. I have the special tool needed to take the stock one off but where its located I think I'd need to lift the engine up on my hoist to even have any access to it. If anyone ever done this before I'd love to hear if its possible just by taking off the wheel
With lightweight components in mind, ill also look at getting a lightweight crank pulley. I have the special tool needed to take the stock one off but where its located I think I'd need to lift the engine up on my hoist to even have any access to it. If anyone ever done this before I'd love to hear if its possible just by taking off the wheel
Starke02
Active Member
Oh and I forgot to mention im going to opt for a 65mm tb. 70mm is too large for my application and I feel like I'd stop getting any real gains past 65mm. Low end torque and power may suffer a little more but mid to high range should be much stronger so I'm willing to go this large
Starke02
Active Member
Thanks bro appreciate it heaps. With just head work and full bolt-ons I aim for around 115kw to the wheels, thatd be a huge increase in power. I want this car to be a na monster that can beat a stock ss from 0 to 100. That is my goal on the street; to hit around 5.5s 0-100. Rn with just ihe and weight reduction im at 7 flat so I think its doable. However I dont just want it going fast in a straight line and I'd rlly love to take it to track days on weekends so after I've got my current engine mods set up I'll be focusing on suspension, such as rear sway bar, coilovers and anti lift kit.
I rlly just want this car to be an ultimate street daily and light track use car without going overboards and making it unstreetable.
when I have another car one day I'll be able to take the engine out and do major work to the bottom end with forged rods and pistons, and will probably stroke it out to 2.0L or 2.1L for some extra well needed low end torque for more street friendly driving
I rlly just want this car to be an ultimate street daily and light track use car without going overboards and making it unstreetable.
when I have another car one day I'll be able to take the engine out and do major work to the bottom end with forged rods and pistons, and will probably stroke it out to 2.0L or 2.1L for some extra well needed low end torque for more street friendly driving
Starke02
Active Member
Even though I'm not introducing a whole lot of power after the cam and headwork i can hopefully get about a 40% increase over stock which is very impressive. And with the stiffer valve springs and big cam ill be able to safely raise the rpm limit about 500rpm or a little more so ill be close to optimal power range when shifting into 2nd during 0 to 100 runs so this should rlly lower my times drastically. The main reason why its accelerates so slowly when shifting into 2nd is bc it shifts too low in the rpm range and bogs down a fair so raising it should help the 1st to 2nd gear shift.
*fudge* sorry for the rants
sounds pretty good. when thinking of tyres, i would advise to skip the street tyres like RE003, and spend a bit more money on a AD08R or equivalent.
Starke02
Active Member
Yeah I've also been thinking of this. I dont want two different sets of tires and rims as I wanna save money so when I finally end up tracking the car I'll find a set of tires which are great on track but also decent and safe on the street, and safe in the wet too. And yeah I've heard good stuff about those tires
Starke02
Active Member
Are they rlly as good as you say? I'll go and have a look at the prices of them and look at some reviews. Do they last similarly to most performance tires?
Starke02
Active Member
Just had a look at em, 220 bucks is def expensive but they look incredibly sticky
yeh man, i gained 2 secs a lap on luddenham going from the re003s to ad08rs. its worth it
www.bobjane.com.au
you might be able to get em for $10-20 cheap per tyre, but that price is ok. you dont need to go bigger then 195 atm as well as you still gotta use your car and see what the different mods do to it
the thing is man, with performance tyres, there not going to last you 50,000kms or more like a regular tyre.
the ad08rs will last you 15000-30000kms with decently hard driving all the time. but the performance is much great. so its a trade off you cant have it all
Yokohama Advan Neova AD08R 195/50R15 82V | 195/50R15 Tyres for sale
Street tyres work well when cold. Conventional rubber compounds reach their limit during high speed driving as heat softening quickly saps the tyres ability to grip the road. Using street tyres on…
you might be able to get em for $10-20 cheap per tyre, but that price is ok. you dont need to go bigger then 195 atm as well as you still gotta use your car and see what the different mods do to it
the thing is man, with performance tyres, there not going to last you 50,000kms or more like a regular tyre.
the ad08rs will last you 15000-30000kms with decently hard driving all the time. but the performance is much great. so its a trade off you cant have it all
Starke02
Active Member
Yeah true true, you gotta decide which trade off you'd prefer.yeh man, i gained 2 secs a lap on luddenham going from the re003s to ad08rs. its worth it
Yokohama Advan Neova AD08R 195/50R15 82V | 195/50R15 Tyres for sale
Street tyres work well when cold. Conventional rubber compounds reach their limit during high speed driving as heat softening quickly saps the tyres ability to grip the road. Using street tyres on…
you might be able to get em for $10-20 cheap per tyre, but that price is ok. you dont need to go bigger then 195 atm as well as you still gotta use your car and see what the different mods do to it
the thing is man, with performance tyres, there not going to last you 50,000kms or more like a regular tyre.
the ad08rs will last you 15000-30000kms with decently hard driving all the time. but the performance is much great. so its a trade off you cant have it all
Two seconds tho is a crap tonne faster tho. holy moly!
Yeah nice! Keen to see how this goes! No one has done a lot of NA stuff to a 4g9x in a little while
Starke02
Active Member
Thanks man!
Yeah I love seeing all the turbo 4gs but idk seeing mad NA builds is just on another level. And there isnt enough NA builds recently so that's one of the main reasons I'm building it like this