Immobiliser? Car Won't Turn Over.

LanceOne

New Member
So, after roughly an hour trying to start my car, I think I've found the problem, maybe.

I've just replaced the battery with a new one from repco, changed spark plugs, now the car won't start.

It was all good a day ago, now when ever I try to start, she turns but won't completely turn over. There's spark, there's fuel in rail, from what I've read this could be an immobiliser problem.

I do have two Lancers and have gotten keys mixed accidentally once or twice so maybe this could've tripped the immobiliser?

Also there's this red led that has fallen out of place, it doesn't light up any more, the led is located just above the coin compartment but now it's just dangling under the steering wheel column. Immobiliser related?

CE Lancer Coupe stock 4g93.
 
Do you have an alarm? Might have blown a fuse in that. Couldn't think battery and plugs would do anything to the immobiliser
 
No, car doesn't have an alarm, when I changed the battery I also removed a dodgy sub install from the previous owner, there were sparks in the back when the wires came loose and clipped each other.
 
Battery terminals on tight? Lol
Plugs on spark plugs on properly?
Spark leads in correct order?
 
Yep, everything's tight and in correct positions, got full power, everything works, changed fuses and everything, just won't completely turn over

Edit; so I had a chat with the previous owner, he told me the car use to have an alarm but was removed when he bought it off the owner before, obviously the car worked fine since removal, just stopped working a day ago, the only thing that's changed since working to not working is probably the battery dying, couldn't start without power so I did the works today replacing battery and spark plugs and now problems.
 
LanceOne said:
just won't completely turn over

Can you elaborate on what you mean there?
Wont turn over very quickly?
or can't make a complete revolution of the engine with the starter motor?

Either way... is the battery charged? are the terminals tight and in good condition?

Where did the sparks come from in the boot from the sub leads? were they directly connected to the battery?

From memory, the immobiliser is only a fuel cut. So if you can get fuel pressure from the rail that isn't your issue.
 
I think that's exactly the problem, when I turn the key to start the car it kicks as normal but won't actually start, as if there's no fuel, tank is 3/4 full since I last drove it. Battery is charged, there's power throughout the whole car, it was the sub wires that sparked, they nicked each other for about a second or two, wired straight from the battery terminal to boot, I've removed it from the battery connector. Everything is tight and in order. It's just that the car doesn't start after the initial kicks, that's why I'm thinking it's an immobiliser issue.

Is there any way to just bypass the immobiliser or just remove it entirely? Even if just a temp bypass just so I can rule it out if it is or isn't the immobiliser which I'm fairly sure it is, I honestly can't find any other problem that could be causing this.
 
So radio and dash lights up fine im guessing, but when you go to start the car it doesnt turn over or it does but doesn't start? Because I had a similar problem with my car. I could use the key at acc and everything would light up and work fine but when I went to turn over the engine it just kept turning over and didnt start. Inside of the key theres an inboliliser chip and mine had fked its self, if this has happened to you it will set you back atleast $200. But im not sure if this is your problem
 
Yes Steve, this is what I'm thinking too, everything electrical is fine. So I guess I'm *poo* out of luck and need to contact Mitsubishi and sort out a new key with chip? Is there no way to just remove the immobiliser entirely?
 
Take the fuel rail out but leave all injectors and wires connected, if the injectors shoot, its something else, if they dont shoot fuel, its immobilizer, the reader can be shorted out momentarily by joining the two wires on the reader together, if it you do it right, the immobilizer will fail for a few minutes and allow you to kick the car over, alternatively... if the injectors aint shooting, theres two relays behind the stereo, their both for the injectors, one of them could be failing, turn the ignition off, and back to ON and listen for clicks in the relays, one click means working

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk
 
Just go to any locksmith key cutter and he will charge you half the price of mitsubishi cost me $200 for new key with the imobilizer chip and it worked fine
 
Must have i guess, almost 2 years is a long time to be trying to start your CE lancer !

Hi Isaiah,

Welcome to the club, go to the home page and then introductions and open up a new thread and introduce yourself, tell us what car you have / mods / and post some pics so all the members can say hello !

Cheers
 
Take the fuel rail out but leave all injectors and wires connected, if the injectors shoot, its something else, if they dont shoot fuel, its immobilizer, the reader can be shorted out momentarily by joining the two wires on the reader together, if it you do it right, the immobilizer will fail for a few minutes and allow you to kick the car over, alternatively... if the injectors aint shooting, theres two relays behind the stereo, their both for the injectors, one of them could be failing, turn the ignition off, and back to ON and listen for clicks in the relays, one click means working

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk
Do I pin the wire together at the reader at the ignition
 
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