Front-Back body roll

Skippy

Skippy

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Pretty much, my shocks have had it, which is causing a lot of 'roll' I guess is what you'd call it, under quick acceleration, the car rears unnaturally high, even more noticable at night (head lights on car infront will go up 3-5inches.) and under braking it'll roll forward a lot... Now I am getting coilovers, and I know this will help a bit, but is there anything else I can do eg. via bracing to help prevent this?
 
Is the car at stock and height now and if so how much are you willing to drop it for the coilovers?
 
Car is at stock height, but will be dropped to just above the rims (almost sitting on em)
 
thought this is an easy one. sway bars all round
underbody braces n wat not. heaps you can get for your car.
check out tryg's ride thread he has a heap of chassis stiffening in his.
 
lancr99 said:
thought this is an easy one. sway bars all round
underbody braces n wat not. heaps you can get for your car.
check out tryg's ride thread he has a heap of chassis stiffening in his.
Click to expand...

From what I understand, this will not help as much as you think. I could be way off track.

Sway bars only help stop side-side roll as they are a springy bar that is mounted to only take load under torsion. which occurs when the control arms are in different rent positions. ie. going around a corner.

Braces only help chassis flex, by "bracing" lol. the just join a few different parts of the chassis together with an inelastic material (steel) in with a cross section that withstands buckling relatively well. So unless skippys chassis is flexing a *poo* load from front to rear (in that case he has bigger problems than sway bars LOL) these things wont help much.

Just put really hard springs, and low profile tires with high tire pressure.
 
coilovers
swaybars
bushes, prothane, urethane etc.


body braces to exactly what they're named after. they brace the body and stop chassis flex. they wont help with body roll/pitch
 
So lower center of gravity seems key.

I'm trying to avoid in cabin, rear tower braces, as I need my space due to travelling all the time. I don't know if there is a rear strut tower brace that allows for keeping of storage space.

Whilst we're here, BC Reds, should I get these or got straight to golds?
 
As you said you travel alot so I'd be going the reds, as they are softer. Golds are more focused on track performance so are a fair bit stiffer than the reds. Reds are still very stiff - but going to be more comfortable than the golds.
 
Alright sounds good, roughly how much will my car drop with them wound all the way up, since my car is going to be going gravel this summer... but it's not that much of a problem I can make up gaurds for my skirts/bumpers.
 
skippy said:
Alright sounds good, roughly how much will my car drop with them wound all the way up, since my car is going to be going gravel this summer... but it's not that much of a problem I can make up gaurds for my skirts/bumpers.
Click to expand...

Gravel should be fine, aslong as its not really rough roads with hoops and hollers. If its like a granite road youll be fine.
 
Anti-Lift Kit, will stop a LOT of the weight transfer.


Also, rim-to-guard was my original goal, but its fairly hard to do without a lot of research, and a lot of trial and error with tyre sizes. I spent 70+ hours looking up tyre sizes and checking out what looks good with the mirage's guards,

Unless its been done before, you'll pretty much be on your own (theres less then a handful of people with rim-to-guard mirage's that look good, and there's even less info on them)
 
Gravel is a mix of red clay roads, and compacted limestone, It'll only be short stints on gravel, as most of the road into town is paved, but the gravel gets DESTROYED during harvest, The door of the ute fell off last harvest.

Will look into the anti-lift kits
 
My cg had reds in it (yours will sit almost identically), when I get home tonight ill find a pic of it. As they came preset, the fronts sat the guards right on top of the tyre. The rears I spun all the way down -without adjusting the spring rate at all and it tucked a slight bit of tyre. You can still go much lower by winding the springs up, but when I did it I wanted to keep the spring rates as they were
 
Here's the pic of how mine sat with the reds (unfortunately the only photo I've got of it at level height - was a sad day, god damn floods):

DSC00273.jpg
 
VRX side skirts, talon rear skirts on the standard bar, and ralliart front bar
 
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