DIY - CC Power Windows

lancer1993

Active Member
Doing this DIY just in case there are any CC owners not knowing if they can add power windows or how easy it can be with the right parts from a Proton.

First you'll need to get parts to suit your CC whether its a coupe or sedan, I got most from a Proton M21 coupe.
Call wreckers, check on eBay and Gumtree.

Parts list
Door cards
Door and dash wiring looms
Switches
Regulators (power window motors)

Supplies needed
Zip tires
Connectors (if plugs are missing)
Electrical tape
Silicone spray lube

Optional
New plastic liner
Rust paint
Speakers

You'll need the best part of a day to do the work, to make sure it all works and don't rush.
Also you might need an electrician to find a suitable power source.
I wired mine up to the accessories power so they work without starting the engine.
There are also relays you can get to give them power for a few seconds after you remove the keys.
I also wired up power mirrors at the same time, also worth it so you don't have to door it later, get the wires and put them in the door.

I didn't photograph every step but I'll try and cover what you need to do.

First here is the standard door found on most CC coupes.


The ones off an M21 or Satria should do the job, if you want to fit door speakers try finding ones with the factory speaker grill.


Here is the wiring, I was lucky to get the (near) complete dash wiring, stripped out the power window wires if your not doing a dash swap. Take your time and make sure not to cut any wires unless you need to.


You'll need a power source, I used a spare car battery, make sure its a 12 volt source. You might want to wire up a plug to use the cars lighter power. Test the regulators before putting them in. No point getting them in the door only to find they are more working. Remember buyer be where when getting any used parts but if they aren't working and you got them from a wrecker then return them for replacements. If you have all the wiring then you can hook up the switches and test it all before the install.


Now lets get started, take of the old cards.
- There are screws under a tab near the mirror and one above the latch, also don't forget the ones at the handle.
- To remove the old window handle you can buy a special tool but it's not needed, get a small flat screwdriver in behind to release the clip. Sorry but you might need to check YouTube and Google for this.
- Once the handle and all screws are removed then use a plastic tool for panel removal, they can be bought at most auto parts shops and in this case well worth the money for future use. Otherwise use an old screwdriver and cloth to get under the edge of the card. Start at the bottom and work your way along the card, once you have unclipped the first few you should be able to use your fingers. There are clips along the bottom and up both sides.
- When the clips are loose the card should lift right off.
- Next peal back the plastic lining, you may need to replace this later with a new piece. The plastic can be bought at Bunnings.


Now I don't have photos for removing the manual regulator so here goes.
- There are screws around the winder, also at the top and bottom of the rail holding the glass. You'll need to use the winder (on last time) to wind the window down to undo the screws holding the glass on. At this point go to you new regulators and using your power put them down to the same place, so you can fit the glass. You may need someone to hold the glass closed and out of the way after undoing the screws. You'll need to wiggle the regulator through the big hole provided to get it out and the new one back in.

You'll need to find where the wires run from the car to the door, you should have the rubber tube that protects the wires between the door and car.
Push the wires in from the between the door and car, if there are existing wires for speakers or power locks you will need to allow room for them, try putting them through the one rubber tube, this takes time and the one of the reasons you may need a full day to complete the job.
Once the wires are in the door you'll need to feed them to the regulator and where the switch goes. Remember they will need to avoid the glass as it goes down so it might take time to find the right place.
Use the power and connect things up, remember both switches will need to be connecting for the passenger side window to work.
Once it's all working you can use zip ties to hold things in place.


This is how the rubber tube will look once the wiring is done, it should lock into place.


To do the passenger side repeat the process but you'll also need to remove the plastic panels under the steering where and the glove box, make sure they don't inter fear with anything else and aren't in the way of any controls, again this takes time.


Unfortunately my wiring loom was cut from a damaged car so missing the passengers side plug. If you need to join wires soldering is always best but your 2nd option is to use joiners, make sure they are tight and working before you tape things up.


I had an electrician get power from under the steering, it is advisable if you don't know what you're doing you can screw up you car and stop it from working. If you have every thing in place an electrician shouldn't charge much to do the final connection, I used the temp lighter power and it costs me $50 to to get the job done.


While you have the door cards off remember to use a silicone based spray lube on the window tracks and moving parts. Also you might want to clean up the door, a quick spray with some rust paint on any suspect spots.


Cut the plastic to approx size if it needs replacing and make sure it's all working before you put the card back on.


Finished job.


You might also want to repaint the cards a different color, replace the material, I used some carbon fiber wrap.

Also you can add those door speakers before putting the cards back on.

Hope this is helpful, it can be a lot of work but is well worth is to have power windows in you 20 year old CC coupe.
 
would like to add. as someone whos done this

under the hood in the fusebox there is infact a fuse location for power windows (evo's come with them factory) in our coupe it only has one pin in the box this pin is a live power source. i used some 30A capable wire and a blade connector to tap into this point and ran it through a 30A fuse as listed on the fuse-box cover.

in my setup i didn't have the dash loom it is however quite a simple system i mearly ran 3 wires from one side to the other i believe one was an earth 2 where power this allowed the drivers control to work the pax side as well as the pax switch

i will note with my install
the following occurs
always powered can wind window up down regardless of ignition easily fixed with a relay on the main power supply wire.
window lock does not work. (pain in the ass when you passenger insists on winding down the window even though you have your ac blaring)
 
Yeah I know the power can come from the fuse box but unless you know what you're doing at that point it's always best to see a sparkie.

I mainly did this DIY for those not knowing it is possible to do it in a CC and make it look like a factory install with proper switches and no extra holes in the cards.

There are also after market power winder options like or Rigby's CC and what the MCM guys did.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q1AxO6Bt-kk

My window lock is also not working, I assumed it was a fault with the switch but could it be the extra wires I didn't connect? I know some of the wires are for door speakers but there were some others that remained unused.

I'm not claiming to be an expert I just thought it was over due for a DIY on the topic in the CC section.
 
FYI here is the finished drivers door with 3D carbon fiber wrap instead of the usual material finish.
It was my first major wrap attempt so I might give it a 2nd go when I get more.
 
Should be very similar with the CE as long as you get the coupe ones if you're fitting them to a coupe.
Some have the dash wiring in place but you'll have to check first.
 
Just to be clear you'll need cards and other parts from a CE, most likely an MR version.

Also the same CE parts should go into a Mirage, just check with others in the site.
 
lancerguy said:
Do you know if its the same with ce parts?

Seeing as you have a CC the CE parts won't be plug n play. Eg the door card switches are model specific, relays might have different circuitry and may not match the requirements of the CC power window motor/actuator. The CE window motor/actuator will most likely not bolt to the metal in the CC door. Lots of things are different.

It would be much easier getting CC/Proton parts as they are plug n play, using CE stuff would be a headache.
I've never been in a CC so all of what I am saying is theoretical, you can make better judgement as you have access to both models at your house.
 
Apparently CE regulators are the same as CC. Will find out soon.

Two questions:

Do the Proton plugs fit the lancer dash loom? If not, when splicing were they just connected to the same colour wire? Or which was which? How did you tell?

Is it safe to assume that since I have factory power mirrors, the proton plugs will fit in that and therefore make the whole thing plug and play? And will the power for the windows simply come from that same source so I won't have to tap into any?
 
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