DIY - Basic Battery Boot Relocation

[d3x]

??????????????????????UNDER CONSTRUCTION???????????????????????????????

Reasons for this mod:
-You gain a lot more room in the engine bay - whether you are doing intake mods, turbo/intercooler piping, custom body kit, or shaving wires etc.
-If you have a good sound system, the battery may be closer to your amplifier/sub so less cable resistance/cable costs
-You can install a huge battery or a weight saver battery no hassles - whatever you need!
-Can slightly alter your weight distribution to the back.
-Easier to perform battery maintenance and get or give jump starts.

Items
You will need a battery box. I used this one:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/200641405079?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
Check what size you want, and expect to pay around $30 for one - check ebay, repco, camping stores, etc

Approximately 15feet of 2 gauge (possibly 4 gauge) cable
Expect to pay $30-40 for good cable - check ebay, auto stores, car audio stores, etc

Old sponge, ring connectors, spray paint

Basic tools - drill, screw driver, soldering iron, cable cutters, scissors, beer

I am not responsible if you cause damage to yourself or vehicle. Perform at own risk!

STEP1:
Mounting brackets should come with the box.
Mark out the locations and drill appropriate sized holes. Check where you are drilling look out for cables, fuel tanks, weak spots etc.

STEP2:
For our lancers it helps to put 3 washers under the brackets to allow for the strap to fit.

STEP3:

Check where the screws end up (sorry about the dirt)

Give it a hit with some paint to protect from rust

STEP4:
Cut some slots in the carpet

STEP 5:
Attach box

Get an old sponge and pad the battery to stop it moving

-----awaiting cable in mail so I'll update this when it arrives-----------------

 

[mdclear]

Firstly i would be running 0gauge wire nothing smaller and damn you need a small battery to fit in that box.
Moving the battery to the boot doesn mean you need less cables cause you still need to run a positive all the way back to the engine. and i would suggest installing a engine earthing kit aswell.

 

[cruiser]

The battery box must be sealed with a vent out to atmosphere so you dont get battery gases into the cabin. Remember the boot is considered part of the cabin.

 

[MOR31]

why are you using a sponge to keep it still, use a battery try in the box thats bolted to the floor then use the clap that was used in the front

also dont know why you used screws to hold it, bolts with washers are far better

 

[Res]

why are you using a sponge to keep it still, use a battery try in the box thats bolted to the floor then use the clap that was used in the front

also dont know why you used screws to hold it, bolts with washers are far better

x2 on all that
but its hind sight, hopefully u improve it a bit, i would secure the battery more than just spounges at minimum
you have done a decent job so far tho

 

[d3x]

Firstly i would be running 0gauge wire nothing smaller and damn you need a small battery to fit in that box.
Moving the battery to the boot doesn mean you need less cables cause you still need to run a positive all the way back to the engine. and i would suggest installing a engine earthing kit aswell.

1) 0 gauge wire? lolololool :lol: that's over kill mate
2) ? that battery box is huge - i used a CRV battery as fitment and that's bigger than a lancers
3) Cabling would be different from person to person, but if you have a big sub in the back this is the way to go.
4) earthing kit isnt needed, just use left over cable to add extra points around the engine bay,

 

[d3x]

why are you using a sponge to keep it still, use a battery try in the box thats bolted to the floor then use the clap that was used in the front

also dont know why you used screws to hold it, bolts with washers are far better

I havn't finished it so that was just for a visual idea (that battery is dead anyway). lancers battery is mcuh smaller so i will either put more sponge in or some foam etc.

Using the battery tray and such looks messy and would probably need more hacking into the body. I agree on putting bolt instead, but i dont have any for now and the screws do a good job. I will put bolts in when i can be bothered.

 

[d3x]

The battery box must be sealed with a vent out to atmosphere so you dont get battery gases into the cabin. Remember the boot is considered part of the cabin.

IMO this won't be an issue as the boot has its own ventilation duct, as well as lots of gaps into the quarter panels. I would prefer this arrangement for engine bay room.

 

[MOR31]

ill just keep comments to myself till its finished then make comment based on that

 

[lancermr]

yes i am not too sure about this boot battery set up , isn,t there plenty of room under bonnet for this small battery ? you still have to run a main positive feed line to the front aswell . is it easier to service this battery in the boot as opposed to under the front bonnet ? whats with the self taper screws holding this all in place [ not legal ] should have bolts / nuts and large washers . this would be a great idea if you setting up a Dual battery ie; 1 for main and 1 for sound. don,t forget about the fuel tank underneath the floor too.

 

[d3x]

yes i am not too sure about this boot battery set up , isn,t there plenty of room under bonnet for this small battery ? you still have to run a main positive feed line to the front aswell . is it easier to service this battery in the boot as opposed to under the front bonnet ? whats with the self taper screws holding this all in place [ not legal ] should have bolts / nuts and large washers . this would be a great idea if you setting up a Dual battery ie; 1 for main and 1 for sound. don,t forget about the fuel tank underneath the floor too.

As mentioned, there isn't enough room when you need to fit intercooler piping. Wow i need to run a positive line to the front? GENIUS....i wonder why i need that 2 gauge cable then? I've already explained the screws - they came with the kit, ill change to bolts later - i really dont care about legality but thats just me. Fuel tank is not under that part of the car. Boot relocations aren't exactly uncommon either....

Anyone else?

 

[MOR31]

Anyone else?

bring it







lol

 

[Res]

nah man ur doing fine, better than most on here can say, with a few small tweaks you will be laughing, plenty of room for intercooler piping now

 

[d3x]

 

[unclepaulie]

hmmm. interesting.

only thing ill add:

-0 gauge wire. this is a must. 2 or 4 is ok for amplifiers, not for main power, consider the amps running through it (upto 600ish pending battery) and the resistance of the 3odd metres of wire.
-circuit breaker
-0 gauge earth with proper grounding lug
-proper battery tie down (like the stock one) inside the battery box.




if you wanted to get fancy, you could use a covered distrubution block up where the oem position is so you still hav a +ve and -ve under the bonnet.


and, the box doesnt need a vent if its a sealed battery.

 

[d3x]

hmmm. interesting.

only thing ill add:

-0 gauge wire. this is a must. 2 or 4 is ok for amplifiers, not for main power, consider the amps running through it (upto 600ish pending battery) and the resistance of the 3odd metres of wire.
-circuit breaker
-0 gauge earth with proper grounding lug
-proper battery tie down (like the stock one) inside the battery box..

All valid, But this is just a BASIC boot relocation for a non ICE'd car.

FYI -
Most guides for boot relocations i have seen use 2 to 4 gauge
The difference between 0 gauge and 2 gauge 1.7083mm in diameter
600 amps....that is like 7200 watts to get the car running! (keep in mind the amps are run off their own fused rails from battery)
The lancers alternator is rated around 80 amps ~900W.
Since the postive lead will connect to the original postive position the alternators supply current will bypass the battery most of the time - battery will only be used for starting (motor uses around 800w) and supplying additional current (stereo on full) and taking charge.
The stock cabling used is far for 0 gauge.
For 15ft 0 gauge is safe for around 150A and 2 gauge is around 100A, nowhere near 600A.
As your negative shunt is only going to get 1 metre MAX...you could even run 4 to 8 gauge as there is reduced resistance. Read the info below
The cable im using is 2989 strands 12mm
http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp
http://diyaudioprojects.com/Technical/American-Wire-Gauge/
http://wiki.xtronics.com/index.php/Wire-Gauge_Ampacity
http://autospeed.com.au/cms/title_Relocating-the-Battery/A_110776/article.html
If this is worth the extra cost go for it.

 

[Trondabron]

^^ schooled

 

[unclepaulie]

hmmm. interesting.

only thing ill add:

-0 gauge wire. this is a must. 2 or 4 is ok for amplifiers, not for main power, consider the amps running through it (upto 600ish pending battery) and the resistance of the 3odd metres of wire.
-circuit breaker
-0 gauge earth with proper grounding lug
-proper battery tie down (like the stock one) inside the battery box..

All valid, But this is just a BASIC boot relocation for a non ICE'd car.

FYI -
Most guides for boot relocations i have seen use 2 to 4 gauge
The difference between 0 gauge and 2 gauge 1.7083mm in diameter
600 amps....that is like 7200 watts to get the car running! (keep in mind the amps are run off their own fused rails from battery)
The lancers alternator is rated around 80 amps ~900W.
Since the postive lead will connect to the original postive position the alternators supply current will bypass the battery most of the time - battery will only be used for starting (motor uses around 800w) and supplying additional current (stereo on full) and taking charge.
The stock cabling used is far for 0 gauge.
For 15ft 0 gauge is safe for around 150A and 2 gauge is around 100A, nowhere near 600A.
As your negative shunt is only going to get 1 metre MAX...you could even run 4 to 8 gauge as there is reduced resistance. Read the info below
The cable im using is 2989 strands 12mm
http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp
http://diyaudioprojects.com/Technical/American-Wire-Gauge/
http://wiki.xtronics.com/index.php/Wire-Gauge_Ampacity
http://autospeed.com.au/cms/title_Relocating-the-Battery/A_110776/article.html
If this is worth the extra cost go for it.

cant argue with that, if you are cool with 2 gauge, then so be it. other then wire choice, it seems all good. you havent listed it, but id get a circuit breaker in there asap.

 

[Skippy]

Ahhhh electric physics, how I love you so.

But nice man, I would move my battery... but my pod is currently fastened to it Glad this thing is WA makes up for my POS

 

[d3x]

Not dissing you paulie or anything, jsut want to keep it informative. I am currently looking at a breaker i can attach to the box that also displays voltage. Lol skip urs isnt as POS.....you are just more responsible with your money haha, but god your floppy pod was epically funny.