CAI

treas92

treas92

New Member
I'm looking at Cold Air Induction for my CH Lancer. All the kits look very good including the K&N Apollo the only problem is my car is an auto and the ATF dip stick/filler tube is right where you would normally run the intact ducting. Any idea's/suggestion?

Please don't just say get a manual as I've heard it a million times before and will be getting a manual Evo once I'm off my P's. For now an auto is perfect for me and with a sports shift it doesn't have a problem keeping up with the manual boys.

Any help would be much appreciated.
 
i dont know if anyone on here other than you has a auto ch so they wouldnt know
why not get it anyway, you can always add a little bit extra pipe to get it to run down past the auto tranny if its going that way
 
agreed - i just bought myself the K&N apollo from the states....$140 all up to get it to my door at the Gold Coast.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/K-N-APOLLO-U ... 5645fb6603

I am running a manual 2.4L CH ES so I can only speculate as to how to help you.

You could just run extra tubing to get it to a place where it can be supported...then using the supplied tubing you can stick that down in your front guard...

you can get this mounting bracket for it also...

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/85-6004-K-N- ... 588e9d5d26
 
That Apollo looks good and i'm sure I can work something out with ducting. How did you work out the mounting for the air flow meter?
 
Best pet, relocate battery to where scoop is, run a short-ram on a 45degree angle from TB to infront of headlight, box it, run tubing up from behind bumper. Don't buy any metal ones from US (thought for 2.4L im not to sure) as I had problems with Aussie models having a different cooling system I believe. But in all honesty, if you don't want to break the bank, DIY.
 
treas92 said:
That Apollo looks good and i'm sure I can work something out with ducting. How did you work out the mounting for the air flow meter?
Click to expand...

with the air flow meter (lets say MAF for short), you are gonna have to cut it away using a hacksaw or something....as close as you can to the OEM air box....then obviously file and smooth so there is no crap left over....

now again...im only speculating as I have a manual....but for mine....im using all original from the engine up to the MAF...then i have a 2 inch long tube connecting the Apollo and the MAF using two clamps....and using that mounting bracket....then i just feed the supplied pipe into the bumper...
 
Im confused by your post. The MAF unbolts from the Box....! Shall I get picture for you?

101_1135.jpg


for CAI, remove the pod, run the tube from your MAF adapter plate then proceed to run tubing to desired location, attach pod.
 
if the dipstick tube is in the way, cut a whole in the plastic tubing/ducting to allow it to poke through, just keep the pod near the maf like Skip did and you;ll be sweet.

one 20mm diamter tube isnt going to make much difference if the air has to flow through a filter after
 
It should be quite easy to do that. The ATF dipstick will give the piping some support also.

On a side note, do any of you guys know where I can get a well priced after market front bar? Mines had it and I need an aftermarket one as I have a full aftermarket kit on atm. I've been looking at Evo 8 replica ones but they are quite expensive. I thought I'd mention this while I have you all here rather than starting another thread.
 
Had a look at their range for the CH. Are the front bumpers for sale for sale in the ES/LS just replica stock bars?

Also how reasonable is their postage and handling charges?
 
skippy said:
Im confused by your post. The MAF unbolts from the Box....! Shall I get picture for you?

101_1135.jpg


for CAI, remove the pod, run the tube from your MAF adapter plate then proceed to run tubing to desired location, attach pod.
Click to expand...


is the MAF a different setup between the manual and auto's?? I know for my manual I need to cut the MAF away from the stock box.
 
honestly you are just as better off getting a SRI rather than the CAI - as there is a small amount of loss of power with all the bends and the distance that the air has to travel the least amount of 90* bends the better - it will also be easier to get more air into the engine bay simply by removing some of the plastic splash trays under the car.
 
skippy said:
I need pictures of your MAF and airbox.
Click to expand...

can't be F'd taking pictures....but yea I had to cut my MAF away from the factory air box as it is joined to be one big piece,....

got 2 hose clamps and a 70mm-63mm 3 inch hose...joined the MAF to the Apollo and ran the tube to a hole i cut the front guard....looks nice

the apollo bracket arrived yesterday and I installed that also...not the Apollo rests on the bracket and has very limited movement...

apollo kit - $130 incl postage (ebay america)
bracket - $23 incl postage (ebay UK)
hose and clamps - $23 (supercheap auto)

and in the winter you can just disconnect the hose to turn it into an SRI....
 
dingle86 said:
and in the winter you can just disconnect the hose to turn it into an SRI....
Click to expand...

lol but why would u....
bonnet temps still get up to easily 70-90 degrees even in winter...
and u miss out on the time of year when u get the most power
 
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