6g74 Swap on a Budget

6

6gMirage

New Member
Thought I should share some info regarding this swap since it was a lot more feasible than I expected.

Spent the last few weeks working on it and have done a quick and dirty job.

First off, props to Paulie for sharing his 6G swap. Theres no point repeating everything he's said in his thread so I'll just list the differences with my swap. Consider it the Wish.com version.


Parts
Almost all parts were sourced from the doner 6G74 Magna as well as what was laying around at home.
The only thing I had to purchase was a belt for the relocated altenator.
All up the mirage cost me a grand, magna was $800

Engine Mounts
Left mount was taken from the Magna, cut up and made to fit.
Right mount was taken from the Magna, bolts straight up.

Front and back were the originals, made some brackets to make them work.

20221016_124352.jpg

Axles
Cut em in half and welded them together. Outer CV is Mirage, Inner is Magna.
This was the easiest way to keep wheel offset the same. Probably would have gone with the same setup as Paulie if I knew what driveshafts he used.

20221011_183451.jpg20221016_124341.jpg

Alternator/Radiator
Wanting to have a full size rad, deleted the AC and put the alternator in its place.
Mirage R/H fan is now on the left and Magna R/H fan is on the right but on the other side of the rad.
Also had to make an outlet to get coolant to the top of the rad as seen in photos.

20221023_100401.jpg20221011_185725.jpg20221016_124333.jpg

Misc

Super jankey fuel filter mount since the Magna hose didnt reach.
20221016_124400.jpg

Battery moved to the boot.
Power steering lines moved to fit, just rebent the old ones.
Removed resonators from Magna intake so bonnet would shut.
Gear stick linkage had to be changed slightly, so you can get all the gears.
Magna loom all though the engine bay, spliced to Mirage loom for rear lights and instrument cluster.
Exhaust is Magna till the muffler, made some mounts to hang it.
Had to hammer the rear dump pipe in so it wouldnt fowl on the steering rack.

20221023_100013.jpg20221019_203049.jpg

Thats about it. Happy to answer any questions.

Going away for the long weekend so I might not reply much.

Also forgive me if I'm a bit slow with Mitsi stuff. Most of my experience is with patrols. Bought a mirage to daily and got the need for speed.

And again, thanks to Paulie. His is a lot nicer than mine.
 

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It’s a pajero mirage! Nice work man, nothing wrong with functional. I bet it rips.
 
this is some solid work! I love the 'all oem, use what i got' brief of the swap (what i planned on too....except that snowballed like making a new fuel line 3" longer cause i wanted it all factory looking and mounting haha)

i think the drop 6g74 package is actually more than enough for a CE...especially one on stock tyres / suspension haha. ill be directing people here who messaging me about doing the drop in 74 package from a magna....kinda drop in except for fabrication.


your engine looks to sit a little lower than mine, i think thats due to the magna gearbox mount. what was the clearance like between the box and K frame? did you space down the north south cross member? be interesting to know your ground clearance to the sump.

wiring done yet or still to do?

overall 10/10. glad to see another one out there on the roads
 
This is great, love a swap that's like "bashed this and welded that".
 
unclepaulie said:
this is some solid work! I love the 'all oem, use what i got' brief of the swap (what i planned on too....except that snowballed like making a new fuel line 3" longer cause i wanted it all factory looking and mounting haha)

i think the drop 6g74 package is actually more than enough for a CE...especially one on stock tyres / suspension haha. ill be directing people here who messaging me about doing the drop in 74 package from a magna....kinda drop in except for fabrication.


your engine looks to sit a little lower than mine, i think thats due to the magna gearbox mount. what was the clearance like between the box and K frame? did you space down the north south cross member? be interesting to know your ground clearance to the sump.

wiring done yet or still to do?

overall 10/10. glad to see another one out there on the roads
Click to expand...
Thanks Paulie, glad you chimed in. Your original post was the only reason I looked into this swap.

6G74 is plenty for sure but I would have preferred the 75. Spent months waiting for a manual 380 to come up but never found one for under 2k.

I think its nice to have the “what you should do” and “what you shouldn’t do” versions of this swap on the forum.

It does sit a bit lower than yours because of that mount. You might say a little too low. Haven’t spaced the crossmember, moving it a few mm higher might help but I’ll have a look.

The sump is resting on the crossmember. Here’s the non-existent clearance between the box and K frame. Suprisingly little vibration in the cab.
20221023_100140.jpg

All wiring is done, took a full two days since I couldn’t get the drawings for Magna.

Just for anyone who may read through this doing the conversion here’s the splice points:
  • Rear lights loom, cut behind driver’s seat.
  • Fuel pump loom, magna passenger footwell – mirage at the pump.
  • Repin ignition plug.
  • Repin indicator stalk plug.
  • Wiper plug, extend to other side of engine bay and use mirage plug.
  • Front parkers, change to mirage plug.
  • Cluster, good luck, hopefully you have drawings
 
Spetz said:
Did you cut/weld the driveshafts yourself?
I didn't know that was possible to do
Click to expand...
Yep, its not as hard as you would think. Just need a 15a Tig.

I did mine in the lathe but you can do it on a bench with some shims to get it the right height.
Using the press to get it straight is a must though.

Otherwise you can always take it to a shop to do it, they'll do a great job.

To my suprise, theres no vibrations from them at all, maybe I got lucky.
 
6gMirage said:
Yep, its not as hard as you would think. Just need a 15a Tig.

I did mine in the lathe but you can do it on a bench with some shims to get it the right height.
Using the press to get it straight is a must though.

Otherwise you can always take it to a shop to do it, they'll do a great job.

To my suprise, theres no vibrations from them at all, maybe I got lucky.What
Click to expand...
What numbers are you aiming for?
 
6gMirage said:
Thanks Paulie, glad you chimed in. Your original post was the only reason I looked into this swap.

6G74 is plenty for sure but I would have preferred the 75. Spent months waiting for a manual 380 to come up but never found one for under 2k.

I think its nice to have the “what you should do” and “what you shouldn’t do” versions of this swap on the forum.

It does sit a bit lower than yours because of that mount. You might say a little too low. Haven’t spaced the crossmember, moving it a few mm higher might help but I’ll have a look.

The sump is resting on the crossmember. Here’s the non-existent clearance between the box and K frame. Suprisingly little vibration in the cab.
View attachment 9243

All wiring is done, took a full two days since I couldn’t get the drawings for Magna.

Just for anyone who may read through this doing the conversion here’s the splice points:
  • Rear lights loom, cut behind driver’s seat.
  • Fuel pump loom, magna passenger footwell – mirage at the pump.
  • Repin ignition plug.
  • Repin indicator stalk plug.
  • Wiper plug, extend to other side of engine bay and use mirage plug.
  • Front parkers, change to mirage plug.
  • Cluster, good luck, hopefully you have drawings
Click to expand...

manual 380 wouldve cause you all kinds of issues. probably good you didnt get one. but you can always replace that 3.5L with the 3.8L block/heads should you be bothered/feel the need for more power.

im shocked and impressed by the lack of vibrations in the cab considering its all touching. id love to poke my head around it in person. there was a good amount of massaging done to my K frame and cross member. nearly knocked it off the jack stands at one stage hah!

if your tacho is outa whack cause 6 cyl signal on 4 cyl tacho; id reccomend a dakota digital signal convertor. if youre an electronics wiz, im sure its only $15 worth of bits from jaycar but i just forked out for the signal convertor. lets me run the CE cluster and get proper 6cyl rpm.
 
unclepaulie said:
manual 380 wouldve cause you all kinds of issues. probably good you didnt get one. but you can always replace that 3.5L with the 3.8L block/heads should you be bothered/feel the need for more power.

im shocked and impressed by the lack of vibrations in the cab considering its all touching. id love to poke my head around it in person. there was a good amount of massaging done to my K frame and cross member. nearly knocked it off the jack stands at one stage hah!

if your tacho is outa whack cause 6 cyl signal on 4 cyl tacho; id reccomend a dakota digital signal convertor. if youre an electronics wiz, im sure its only $15 worth of bits from jaycar but i just forked out for the signal convertor. lets me run the CE cluster and get proper 6cyl rpm.
Click to expand...
If the motor ever goes it will be a 75 going in for sure. Reading your thread and learning about how complicated they are made me okay with the 74.

Don't trust my opinion on drive line vibrations too much, I lack experience. I will say it's much better than my patrol and only a little worse than my clapped out daily mirage.

I'm in Vic and your welcome around anytime. Also work interstate too.

As for the tacho, I've got the stock cluster so not much going on there for me. Might add in an aftermarket one, same as my daily.
Good to know they exist though. Back in the day I had to use an Arduino to modify the pwm to work! That's heaps easier!
 
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