What oil do you use in your 4G94?

UncleBeavz

New Member
Hey everyone,

I'm a new lancer CH owner and want to know what Everyone is using, book says to use 10w-30 semi synthetic but penrite and amsoil advise to use 5w-40 or 10w-40 full synthetic.

Let me know what you use [emoji12]

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Penrite and Amsoil didn't engineer your car's engine to operate, so personally I'd stick to whatever the range that the book/manual says.
 
Problem is I can't find 10w-30 semi synthetic in a good brand, dun wanna use magnatec snake oil

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Problem is I can't find 10w-30 semi synthetic in a good brand, dun wanna use magnatec snake oil

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

As long as you change it frequently enough, it wont really matter too much (but please don't get homebrand oil haha).

I use Nulon Mineral 15w-40 in my 4g93 CE Mirage, for around 15,000kms, and used it in the old 4g15 for about 80-100,000kms, without any issues. Just changed it before it reached 12-15,000kms and its fine.
 
Not on a 4G94, but I use Shell Helix Ultra 5W40.
Fantastic oil and not too expensive.
It is on par with Mobil 1 yet costs $50-$60 instead of $90-$100
 
Mitsubishi advises using a API classification with service SG or higher for a CH, as to viscosity depends if you live (ie if its snowing / cold /freezing ) or like most of australia temp varies between hot and hotter.

A SAE 15W-50 or an SAE 15W-40 is good for between -15 degrees Celsius to +50 degrees celsius.

I have been using the genuine Mitsubishi oil Part number AW349163 for 12 years, its a 15W-50 API SM/CF class, comes in a white 5lt container and much to my surprise only costs around the $30 mark from mitsubishi dealers, its recommended by mitsi for many of its engines, perfect for 4g94 and many other models including es/vrx/and turbo ralliart.

An oil's viscosity is just how thick it is. Viscosity is measured by an oil's "weight" Way back in the "Old School" had 30 wt (weight) oil which was suitable for the average early holden/ford. This is a single grade oil, its actual viscosity varies with temperature. A single grade oil gets thinner when hot and thicker when cold. Multigrade oils have labels like "10w-40" or "20w-50". Their thickness changes with temperature also, but they change the opposite way from single grade oils. A 10w-40 motor oil behaves like a 10 wt oil when cold and behaves like a 40 wt oil when hot.
Generally a thicker oil will withstand more abuse, however thick oils can take longer to reach engine parts when the engine is started. In cold climates a thinner oil (lower "wt" number) is often used to compensate for this. Engine startup is when most engine wear occurs: it runs for a second or so without oil pressure every time you start it.

Manufacturers are using thinner and thinner oils in cars now (5w-30 wt is recommended for many new cars.) This is primarily for fuel efficiency. It's usually OK to use a thicker oil than this, but I'm not sure it really helps things. Some higher mileage engines consume more oil of the lower viscosity types: if your engine use just under a litre every 1000 miles you might use a higher viscosity than recommended by the manufacturer.


Like donki previously said, its best to stick to the recommended variations that the manufactures say for use in factory engines.
 
Mitsubishi advises using a API classification with service SG or higher for a CH, as to viscosity depends if you live (ie if its snowing / cold /freezing ) or like most of australia temp varies between hot and hotter.

A SAE 15W-50 or an SAE 15W-40 is good for between -15 degrees Celsius to +50 degrees celsius.

I have been using the genuine Mitsubishi oil Part number AW349163 for 12 years, its a 15W-50 API SM/CF class, comes in a white 5lt container and much to my surprise only costs around the $30 mark from mitsubishi dealers, its recommended by mitsi for many of its engines, perfect for 4g94 and many other models including es/vrx/and turbo ralliart.

An oil's viscosity is just how thick it is. Viscosity is measured by an oil's "weight" Way back in the "Old School" had 30 wt (weight) oil which was suitable for the average early holden/ford. This is a single grade oil, its actual viscosity varies with temperature. A single grade oil gets thinner when hot and thicker when cold. Multigrade oils have labels like "10w-40" or "20w-50". Their thickness changes with temperature also, but they change the opposite way from single grade oils. A 10w-40 motor oil behaves like a 10 wt oil when cold and behaves like a 40 wt oil when hot.
Generally a thicker oil will withstand more abuse, however thick oils can take longer to reach engine parts when the engine is started. In cold climates a thinner oil (lower "wt" number) is often used to compensate for this. Engine startup is when most engine wear occurs: it runs for a second or so without oil pressure every time you start it.

Manufacturers are using thinner and thinner oils in cars now (5w-30 wt is recommended for many new cars.) This is primarily for fuel efficiency. It's usually OK to use a thicker oil than this, but I'm not sure it really helps things. Some higher mileage engines consume more oil of the lower viscosity types: if your engine use just under a litre every 1000 miles you might use a higher viscosity than recommended by the manufacturer.


Like donki previously said, its best to stick to the recommended variations that the manufactures say for use in factory engines.


Thanks, very informative.
 
Problem is I can't find 10w-30 semi synthetic in a good brand, dun wanna use magnatec snake oil

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


Depending on how far your car has travelled e.g.: If it has covered a high mileage, parts get worn and clearances get larger so going up by the slight margins you are talking about, I dought the slightly heavier oil will be a worry and in fact could prove beneficial, especially if your car has reached the stage of occasionally needing a top up. My owners manual CJ allows for tolerances of these sort of differences even within the same band of atmospheric temperatures.
 
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