Adding a Kenwood Sub and Amp
- Thread starter lancer1993
- Start date
lancer1993
Active Member
I want more base, I know the difference it make on my computer when listening to music or watching a movie.
Also want it to look good, so will take my time building it, where is the best place to get the carpet to finish it?
I'm planing on about a $500 budget for the sub, amp and wiring, depending on Christmas sales. The MDF will cost about $50 depending on how much I need as I want to put in a new boot floor for easy access to the spare and tools. Even with a (future) strut bar I still want a usable boot, so the speaker might need a guard or cover.
Also want it to look good, so will take my time building it, where is the best place to get the carpet to finish it?
I'm planing on about a $500 budget for the sub, amp and wiring, depending on Christmas sales. The MDF will cost about $50 depending on how much I need as I want to put in a new boot floor for easy access to the spare and tools. Even with a (future) strut bar I still want a usable boot, so the speaker might need a guard or cover.
lancer1993
Active Member
Bunnings, my 3rd home, after SCA 
I've see some doing a fiberglass layer to bond the sub box when they build them, is this vital or over the top?
I've see some doing a fiberglass layer to bond the sub box when they build them, is this vital or over the top?
rule of tumb the bigger the sub the lower the frequency it's best for.
10" really punchy and tight great for drum kicks. and higher tone bass guitar
12" alitlle looser mine are in sealed prefab bowes and make a peak spl of 136db @ 75hz (which is very high frequency for this size) i have my low pass set at 80hz ie anything over 80hz is filtered away from the sub anything under is sent through.
15" loose as a fat man farting only really good for super low tones.
a thing to note all of these are going to be able to pull some very high SPL numbers (sound pressure level) and often it is the smaller 10" speakers that are pulling the highest numbers due to their ability to recreate tones more exactly the larger the speaker the more sluggish it is at reacting to changes in tone. this is why they're suit more to lower frequencies.
also think about how you are going to house them are they going to be sealed or ported. this also effects the optimum frequency ported boxes tend to make low tones better. while sealed tend to help keep things nice and tight. it's all about how you move the air around the speaker
10" really punchy and tight great for drum kicks. and higher tone bass guitar
12" alitlle looser mine are in sealed prefab bowes and make a peak spl of 136db @ 75hz (which is very high frequency for this size) i have my low pass set at 80hz ie anything over 80hz is filtered away from the sub anything under is sent through.
15" loose as a fat man farting only really good for super low tones.
a thing to note all of these are going to be able to pull some very high SPL numbers (sound pressure level) and often it is the smaller 10" speakers that are pulling the highest numbers due to their ability to recreate tones more exactly the larger the speaker the more sluggish it is at reacting to changes in tone. this is why they're suit more to lower frequencies.
also think about how you are going to house them are they going to be sealed or ported. this also effects the optimum frequency ported boxes tend to make low tones better. while sealed tend to help keep things nice and tight. it's all about how you move the air around the speaker
lancer1993
Active Member
Thanks for the info, I'm leaning towards 10" as I don't want too much base.
Never used fiberglass before but I guess that is not needed as long as everything is screwed down tight.
Never used fiberglass before but I guess that is not needed as long as everything is screwed down tight.