2016 Lancer ES Flat Spot

L

listed10

New Member
Hi i have purchased a new 2016 Lancer Es Sport Auto and iam having a flat spot issue for example when slowing down to under 15kph or just before i come to a complete stop it probably happens once ever 100 times when i start to accelerate the car just does not respond from 1 sec or even up to 3 secs very annoying esspecially turning at a set of lights or roundabouts.
I have taken my car and naturally was not faulting at the time it was tested and left the car at the dealers for 2 days with no issues registered on the computer.
I have done the following:
2 tanks of 95 octane petrol thinking it could be a petrol issue
Charged the battery with my battery charger just incase
Does not matter if the engine is hot or cold either

I was just wondering if anyone has experienced an issue with a new car as i feel a bit unsafe especially with a 3sec gap when my car is not responding at roundabouts or turning at the lights.

Just to note it never has happened when my car is at a complete stop or at speeds above 20kph.
If anyone has advice or if it has happened to you could i please know the outcome.
I dont have an issue with the dealer as no fault codes are shown but very frustrating.
Thx Eddie
 
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You said it happens 1/100 times and when you're slowing not stopped completely... being an auto, I'd be thinking it's probably coasting in 2nd or 3rd gear and the revs are too low for the gear you're in to give you the fast acceleration you're looking for. A manual box will solve this problem (where's rigby at? :p). Alternatively, when it does it have you tried pushing the accelerator harder to get it to drop back a gear, and does that make a difference?
 
S0unds like out of sync: auto, something isn't right. If it was it would be consistent.
Doesn't happen to mine! Decidedly dangerous, could say car is below acceptable and legal standards.
If its a normal idiosyncrasy as suggested by B165ND the dealer should have and would have been
able to explain it to you.

This would possibly have been placed in General or CJ column or CJ- CF column
or maybe new CF column.
 
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Hi B165ND i have tried to accelerate more but nothing happens just takes take 1-3 seconds to engage what to do and i have not put it from the drive position to sports mode or manual mode to take the gear down as when iam in that situation thinking about if a car is going to hit me from behind.
Thanks peregrine i will try and post there as well and i do think in some situations it dangerous but hope a solution will be found as another dealer will be looking at it next week.
 
What rpm's is it doing when its going slow under 1500? as above would generally assume wrong gear and to plant it somewhat.
 
Hi Chris yea its under 1500 and even if i put my foot down more than normal after it does not respond it does not engage until 1-3 seconds.
 
Sounds like wrong gear or something else seriously wrong with it. I'm assuming it's auto. Could always get a time and get them to play with the throttle map too
 
2016 car has a upgraded CVT with 8 sport *poo* points as against 6 in all previous models. Wonder if this will prove to be a glitch in the new setup?
If so will be corrected.:confused2:

Is dangerous so should be brought to attention of Mitsubishi as recall if its a common problem,
Tell dealer you will seek and get unroadworthy certificate if necessary. Concerned about roadworthiness.
Will leave car with them until problem fixed with you getting a change over vehicle until fixed.
 
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Thanks for your input taking my car in tomorrow so iam hoping there will be a result soon. Mitsubishi is aware of my issue as i have rang head office airing my concern and was told to take it to the dealer again so hope an outcome will be achieved this week.
If anyone has had this issue on a new car welcome for your input or a source that is not covered .
Will keep people updated this week for future reference.
Thx Eddie
 
Let's narrow it down to see if it's your actual gearbox or some other issue. Every time you are at the speed where the problem occurs, slam it down into 1st manually and start accelerating straight after. Don't let it catch 1st and jolt you to slow down, accelerate when the gear changes. It will take you a few attempts.
If it still happens in 1st gear you have an actual problem. If it doesn't happen then you either need to manually shift to 1st when necessary or you need to be aware that autos need a certain level of throttle at a certain speed to produce power and be in the correct gear to do so. You could still easily be in 3rd gear at 15kmh. Unlikely at 10kmh but that sounds like your problem.
My guess is it's as Ian said, not enough acceleration and wrong gear when you go to take off.
 
May also want to make sure your throttle position switch is properly adjusted. It can also give these exact symptoms
 
Thanks rigby will look into and try what you have suggested if the problem is not found after i leave the car at the dealer tomorrow.
 
2016 car has a upgraded CVT with 8 sport *poo* points as against 6 in all previous models. Wonder if this will prove to be a glitch in the new setup?
If so will be corrected.
Is dangerous so should be brought to attention of Mitsubishi as recall if its a common problem,
Tell dealer you will seek and get unroadworthy certificate if necessary. Concerned about roadworthiness.
Will leave car with them until problem fixed with you getting a change over vehicle until fixed.

peregrine, Saturday at 9:18 AMReport




This sounds like an intermittent pain in the ass problem very similar to Peregrine’s “8 sport *poo* points as against 6 in previous model” mentioned in his above post, sorry, you left that open, all jokes aside, this may/may not become a problem in the future as well.

The computer uses information from all these sensors to determine how much fuel is needed to maintain the correct air/fuel mixture, and when extra fuel is needed if the throttle suddenly opens wide, obviously in your case an intermittent fault has occurred, seems strange in a near new 2016 model to have this problem, but it happens.

Does it get worse under load say with more people in the car?

I would tend to agree with Rigby and Chris Thomas above, try to narrow down the problem and check the basic's first, as its not showing up a fault code (???) it still can be an intermittent problem, if they (dealer) hasn't done so already best if they did Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) full range test, Mass Airflow (MAF) Graph and Fuel Trim Readings.

An engine that hesitates stumbles or misfires when accelerating or when it is under load, could be sucking too much air, (check for vacuum leak), not getting enough fuel, other problems that cause acceleration stumble include problems with ECU (mapping), vacuum leaks, low fuel pressure, a weak spark caused by low coil voltage or bad coil(s), retarded ignition timing, and contaminated gas, don’t know how many klm’s you have up but try running a couple of tankfuls of super premium 98 thru the system / plus injector cleaner (might not fix it but it can’t hurt)

They should be checking basic’s first (plugs/coil) than throttle position, mass airflow (MAF), short term fuel trim (STFT), long term fuel trim (LTFT), ignition timing, and fuel pressure (if a PID is available).

Throttle Position Sensorscan also have dead spots at any point in their range of travel. With the key on, engine off, dealer should graph the sensors output while slowly opening the throttle all the way. The graph should look like a relatively smooth ramp, with no suddenly drops or flat spots.

That’s all i can think off ATM, whatever it turns out to be please let us all know!!
 
Why should anyone have to put up with all this crap!!!?? Hand it back to the dealers and tall them you want it fixed and you want transport till they do.
Its new he has a right to expect it to be within acceptable standards and right, could be, dependable on time span, returnable with a full refund if it cant be corrected. Furthermore if what it is doing sets it as being dangerous then they have sold him an unroadworthy car.
Last resort tell them. Look bad on talk back TV which would also involve the dealer and OOPS Mitsubishi! If possible get an unroadworthy ticket first.
 
It happens so rarely though, it's going to be such a *mum* to diagnose. That's why I think it's just simply the wrong gear at the wrong time. It happens. That's why I always 100% force my car down into at least 2nd when taking off because I don't want it to be accidentally stuck in 3rd while I'm rolling at 15kmh and have to downshift twice before I go anywhere.
 
Thanks for all the feedback appreciate the responses to date.
Just to update thats i left the car yesterday they had driven it around today but no fault has been found and i was told that they were going to talk to Mitsubishi tomorrow and see if they can come up with something. I will wait for there response i didnt feel i should go flat out in complaining at the moment until they asses my car and get a response from Mitsubishi then i will have to escalate it further as i feel when i have it on drive i should not have to put it in sports/maual mode. I will keep it updated tomorrow with some news and would be great if anyone knows anyone who has had the same problem as mine. Thx
 
wagonmaster said:
2016 car has a upgraded CVT with 8 sport *poo* points as against 6 in all previous models. Wonder if this will prove to be a glitch in the new setup?
If so will be corrected.
Is dangerous so should be brought to attention of Mitsubishi as recall if its a common problem,
Tell dealer you will seek and get unroadworthy certificate if necessary. Concerned about roadworthiness.
Will leave car with them until problem fixed with you getting a change over vehicle until fixed.

peregrine, Saturday at 9:18 AMReport




This sounds like an intermittent pain in the ass problem very similar to Peregrine’s “8 sport *poo* points as against 6 in previous model” mentioned in his above post, sorry, you left that open, all jokes aside, this may/may not become a problem in the future as well.

The computer uses information from all these sensors to determine how much fuel is needed to maintain the correct air/fuel mixture, and when extra fuel is needed if the throttle suddenly opens wide, obviously in your case an intermittent fault has occurred, seems strange in a near new 2016 model to have this problem, but it happens.

Does it get worse under load say with more people in the car?

I would tend to agree with Rigby and Chris Thomas above, try to narrow down the problem and check the basic's first, as its not showing up a fault code (???) it still can be an intermittent problem, if they (dealer) hasn't done so already best if they did Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) full range test, Mass Airflow (MAF) Graph and Fuel Trim Readings.

An engine that hesitates stumbles or misfires when accelerating or when it is under load, could be sucking too much air, (check for vacuum leak), not getting enough fuel, other problems that cause acceleration stumble include problems with ECU (mapping), vacuum leaks, low fuel pressure, a weak spark caused by low coil voltage or bad coil(s), retarded ignition timing, and contaminated gas, don’t know how many klm’s you have up but try running a couple of tankfuls of super premium 98 thru the system / plus injector cleaner (might not fix it but it can’t hurt)

They should be checking basic’s first (plugs/coil) than throttle position, mass airflow (MAF), short term fuel trim (STFT), long term fuel trim (LTFT), ignition timing, and fuel pressure (if a PID is available).

Throttle Position Sensorscan also have dead spots at any point in their range of travel. With the key on, engine off, dealer should graph the sensors output while slowly opening the throttle all the way. The graph should look like a relatively smooth ramp, with no suddenly drops or flat spots.

That’s all i can think off ATM, whatever it turns out to be please let us all know!!
Click to expand...
Hi just to answer your questions as well i have filled up a couple of premium unleaded also does do it if the car has a load or by myself. Had the car from new only done 2500km.
 
Only 2500 klms, hmmm , other than what has already been suggested in all the above posts, maybe the dealer should try an OBD2 data recorder in your car for a while, it just plugs into your obd2 port and sits somewhere in your car to record data from the car as you are driving it around over 3-7 day period, then use this recorded data which can also be graphed to see if it can show up the possible intermittent fault location ?
 
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