Re-machine or Replace Discs?
- Thread starter ABS
- Start date
81gl
Member
Once it reaches it's minimum thickness.
-Don't have a CH manual, but to give you an idea, the front disc on a CE has a nominal thickness of 18.00mm, & should be replaced once it reaches 16.40mm
If a shop is doing the machining for you, they should be able to advise on whether to replace or reface the disc.
-Don't have a CH manual, but to give you an idea, the front disc on a CE has a nominal thickness of 18.00mm, & should be replaced once it reaches 16.40mm
If a shop is doing the machining for you, they should be able to advise on whether to replace or reface the disc.
barry
New Member
Hi mate, you've probably already done something about this but if you havent machined/replaced them I can recommend the DBA slotted/dimpled rotors and bendix pads. If your car has near or over 100,000k I wouldnt even worry about machining the factory discs ($80=100 per end) If the discs are too thin to be machined its about $150 for standard replacement disc, for an extra $100 a disc you can get the DBA's which look great and with bendix pads will improve your braking out of sight. Recently did this with my CH VRX wagon and its a cheap upgrade which works.
barry said:
Thanks barry. I will be looking at replacing them with DBA rotors and Bendix brakes very soon. I've done my research and calculated the costs which can be seen here.
Yes DBA standard ones are around $150, so I'll probably go with the slotted ones but could you confirm if the T2 Street Series (DBA2200S and DBA2203S) are the slotted ones?
barry
New Member
Hi mate, seems I made an error on the disc side. I asked my mechanic to order in some DBA slotted rotors but somehow he ordered RDA instead. When I picked the car up I noticed straight away but honestly I didnt care as the RDA rotors are a much better looking disc than the T2. Type in RDA dimpled rotors, click on and scroll down a bit and there is a full photo. I think they were $250 a side but worth it. With the bendix pads I guess about 30% more power over the stock set up easy. Not to put you off the T2's but if the visual if a part of it too I reckon the RDA rotors are the go. Cheers. :thumbup:
In answer to the OP the way to tell when to replace is if they are too thin or also if the car is shuddering when braking (warped rotors usually although sometimes can be bushes gone). Personally I find that by the time I have worn a set of pads (or even before then) I've warped my rotors and they need replacing. But then as I DIY I found on my mirage I could get a new set for $60 so why bother trying to check and machine the old ones?! I'll just dump them at a scrap metal recycler.
RDAs are cheaper than DBA, much of a muchness really unless you start really pushing the car then perhaps the higher-end DBAs are better. That said you really are letting yourself down if only using a Bendix General CT pad, try on your next change QFM HPX pads and you should get better braking!
barry said:
RDAs are cheaper than DBA, much of a muchness really unless you start really pushing the car then perhaps the higher-end DBAs are better. That said you really are letting yourself down if only using a Bendix General CT pad, try on your next change QFM HPX pads and you should get better braking!
