headers for lancer ce 2002?

cconnorr

New Member
just wondering where abouts i can get myself some decent headers for my 2002 lancer ce, found a few options on ebay, but all come from Malaysia, and look the same but have price points of 550 - 900$. has anyone purchased these headers and are they any good? if anyone can link any others that they know of that would also be great, thanks.

link to the ebay headers :
 
Hey mate, generally you have one of 3 options within Australia for headers from stores, all being great options, provided you have a 1.8.

Have a look at hensperformance, RPW and LLT racing for headers which should be from about 400-550 depending on design. Hurricane also still make a set I believe
 
Hey mate, generally you have one of 3 options within Australia for headers from stores, all being great options, provided you have a 1.8.

Have a look at hensperformance, RPW and LLT racing for headers which should be from about 400-550 depending on design. Hurricane also still make a set I believe
What would you say the quality of the ones I linked would be? Would there be fitment issues? Im trying ti see if I can just order some that will fit directly on, because I’m supposed to get these as a Christmas present lol, so I can’t really go to a shop and get them mounted. I see hensperformance have some, which I emailed them about a while ago and they are yet to respond. Also really odd question, do the headers from RPW actaully come blue, or is it like a CAM model? That’s prolly a dumb question to ask lmao
 
The ones in the photo look okay, unsure about the merge collector but the welds seem fine. I have a set of Hens, so I can only really speak for them. The LLT ones will be stainless as opposed to the mild steel, and I believe that the rpw and hurricanes are blue but I would do some extra research. The ones from any of the brands I mentioned above are designed to be a direct bolt on. Its a simple process to get them on, will only take half an hour at the most. Just jack up the car, soak your manifold bolts and flanges in penetrating fluid (overnight if you can), and they will come off just fine :)
 
yeah i just called hensperformance earlier, and they are all out of stock, and he can t get them anywhere. comparing his and other direct bolt on ones to the ebay link, the downpipe looks different. i called llt and they said ill have to bring my car to their shop for them to fit it, they have the headers but they said they'll just make the downpipe out of flexy
 
Roger Roger. Looks like hurricaine or RPW will be the go then if the time frame is the prominent factor
 
Also if you are really concerned about the blue, could always spend a little extra and get some VHT manifold paint to touch up to your choice of colour
 
Generally speaking, a lot of the ebay units (especially from Malaysia and surrounds) are made of stainless, but a very thin stainless. As such, they can rust if theyre not taken fantastic care of, and theyve been known to have pinholes in the welds accelerating the process.

Stainless also has the characteristic of producing an high resonance compared to mild steel, due to its chemical makeup. This means it can sound much more raspy and tinny compared to a mild steel set of header pipes. Id recommend spending the same amount of money and sourcing mild steel units if you can
 
Also if you are really concerned about the blue, could always spend a little extra and get some VHT manifold paint to touch up to your choice of colour
Generally speaking, a lot of the ebay units (especially from Malaysia and surrounds) are made of stainless, but a very thin stainless. As such, they can rust if theyre not taken fantastic care of, and theyve been known to have pinholes in the welds accelerating the process.

Stainless also has the characteristic of producing an high resonance compared to mild steel, due to its chemical makeup. This means it can sound much more raspy and tinny compared to a mild steel set of header pipes. Id recommend spending the same amount of money and sourcing mild steel units if you can
ok, i have looked and found these two on RPW,


both seem sold, called the place and they are both mild steel. turns out the blue is just some rust protection, (planning on getting them powder coated anyways) but burns off after the first few runs. im wondering what is the difference, and is it worth double to get the other one? also on the cheaper one, it appears to have to like o2 sensor spots? may sound like an idiot but thats what it looks like to me? can i get a second opinion?

also appreciate all the help fellas
 
ok, i have looked and found these two on RPW,


both seem sold, called the place and they are both mild steel. turns out the blue is just some rust protection, (planning on getting them powder coated anyways) but burns off after the first few runs. im wondering what is the difference, and is it worth double to get the other one? also on the cheaper one, it appears to have to like o2 sensor spots? may sound like an idiot but thats what it looks like to me? can i get a second opinion?

also appreciate all the help fellas

I was going to say, id expect the blue to burn off after a couple of good hot drives anyway - note that it'll probably be very smokey and stink like fk while it does. Not stupid questions! The more you ask, the more you know, and the more info is recorded for others in the future.

The street version and race versionsare to do with how long the pipes are, and their merging and sizing. If they merge quickly once out of the engine (sometimes called 4-2-1 for being 4 pipes into 2 into 1, or rarely called a short length 4-into-1) its better for lower RPM driving, and if you spend most of your time above 5k rpm, the race versions are better (sometimes called long tube 4-1 or more commonly just normal 4-1). That said, its worth noting the exit of the overall pipe may impact exhaust plans, but any exhaust shop with a quarter of a brain will be able to match it without issues anyway if you wanted a full system.

Tuned length 4-1 Street headers for $330 isnt bad at all - mine was around the same price many many years ago.
 
I was going to say, id expect the blue to burn off after a couple of good hot drives anyway - note that it'll probably be very smokey and stink like fk while it does. Not stupid questions! The more you ask, the more you know, and the more info is recorded for others in the future.

The street version and race versionsare to do with how long the pipes are, and their merging and sizing. If they merge quickly once out of the engine (sometimes called 4-2-1 for being 4 pipes into 2 into 1, or rarely called a short length 4-into-1) its better for lower RPM driving, and if you spend most of your time above 5k rpm, the race versions are better (sometimes called long tube 4-1 or more commonly just normal 4-1). That said, its worth noting the exit of the overall pipe may impact exhaust plans, but any exhaust shop with a quarter of a brain will be able to match it without issues anyway if you wanted a full system.

Tuned length 4-1 Street headers for $330 isnt bad at all - mine was around the same price many many years ago.
yeah, i know a guy who own an exhaust shop that recently done a cold air intake for me, and i was talking to him about it, and he said he might be able to help me out. gonna wait and see what he says. also with the cheaper ones, do they go straight to the cat? because it doesn't look like it would reach it. the more expensive one comes with the curved flexy piece, which on a stock lancer exhaust is all one piece off of the downpipe. the more expensive one has it, and from the pics of the cheaper one, it doesn't have the curve to reach the cat. i just really dont know lmao. ill see what the guy from the shop reckons and see how much he will charge me. but yeah with the rest of the exhaust, still have the cat, just swapped the muffler to a resonator, and it doesnt sound too bad, just sounds heaps raspy because of the headers. i have a twin tip coming off of the muffler which i eventually want to put blast pipes, big fan of how they look. any info you're willing to share on good exhaust sound?
 
An exhaust sound is a fine art to get right. The engine capacity fundamental pattern of operating means that the CE is going to sound higher pitched and tinny and not great unless you add some major changes to it. Just like food, everyone has a preference on what sounds good too, so rather than that ill give some info on what does what;

Larger diameter pipe = louder, and somewhat deeper note
Longer pipe = deeper sounding note. Can reduce the rasp note to a small degree.

Muffler = the most common and well known part, and this muffles and dampens the sound. They have different internals, from multi chambered sections for full sound dampening to straight through race style designs. Larger unit = generally better at dampening the sound to a lower note.
Resonator/hotdog = used for cancelling out certain ranges of sound pitches. Some mufflers act as resonators depending on their makeup. Generally speaking, the unit length will determine the sound frequency to cut out @unclepaulie may correct me on that.
Cats = for emissions. The cats are also the #1 reason for raspyness. More cat cells (like the oem 400cell or whatever it is) means more rasp, but only to a degree - some engines will output absolute hot trash sound and the cats actually help to blend that.

For all the above, the material make up will change how it sounds. Good brand mufflers use good quality packing materials and leave a good sounding note, cheaper units are thinner and less dense, and sound higher pitched and tinny.

My ideal exhaust setup would be full mild steel 2.25" system, or 2.5" if the shop is lazy and doesnt keep the smaller size in stock. 4-2-1 Extractors (or a short 4-1, but any version will do if you can find it now a days), a 100 or 200 cell cat to help chop the sound. An 18" glasspack resonator if you can budget for it to help the rasp of the cats, and have it as close to the cat as possible, and a decent straight-through chamber muffler into any tips you want.

$0.02
 
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