Fto > Ch rear handbrake conversion.

hornunga

Active Member
A few people have mentioned that they dislike the handbrake setup on their fto 5 stud conversion.
So i thought id try and post my conversion as best as possible.
There may be a few things that could be done better or worse. This is what worked for me and the only thing i could have done better was to have the handbrake cables custom made, or find an appropriate set from another model but i don't have time to browse pick-a-parts that often.
As mentioned this is what worked for me so please use this as a guide only i wont be responsible for any injury's or accidents that come from doing this mod.


Tools you will need.
Basic socket set
Basic screw drivers
Some kind of drilling dremmel device
Brake line flaring kit
https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/toolpro-toolpro-tube-flaring-kit/214269.html
SCA_214269_hi-res.jpg

Parts you will need. Assuming you have already done the fto 5 stud conversion.
Spare Ce interior hand brake cable adjuster
Ch 5 stud rear trailing arm setup or everything that is attached to it. inc handbrake lines
(4 Stud will work but be prepared to redrill the hubs and rotors and/or purchase new ones)
Spare brake lines from both ce & ch

Now i cheated with the handbrake cables, rather than having both sides shortened to suit the shorter car, i tucked the small amount of excess up under the chassis of the car and chose to take the cheap option of modifying the interior cable to get the adjustment i needed. You will need a brake place to do this for you ($20-30) and have them shorten the cable by 20mm or so.
36562826_10155855435956799_6219642342924615680_n.jpg

The mounting points on the cables themselves are not positioned in the correct spot, i cut off the metal locking rings and relocated the mounts to a spot more suited and cable tied them into position. But you will get to this when installing them.

Remove everything that is fto from the trailing arm and set aside, you shouldn't need any of it. Leaving just the bare arm.
img_393322.jpg

To start fitting up the CH gear first you need to modify the brake backing plate.
Measuring inwards you need to drill / dremmel / file out around 6mm.
I started with 5mm and continued in small increments until i could screw the bolt in snuggly making sure that the plate was located neatly on the arm.
img_39342.jpg

Following this, everything should bolt back onto the arm as it came off the CH.
I'm currently using the FTO rear bearing hub as my new CH ones were 4 stud, but from measurements taken the ch hubs are identical to that of the fto but they need to have the ABS ring removed to fit over the spindle.
36739606_10155853613161799_5154877236796456960_n.jpg 36735821_10155853613181799_3457279674906836992_n.jpg

And last but not least, my apologies i didn't take more photos of this. To use the CH brake calipers you need to work some brake line trickery.
I cant remember which way around they were, but i believe the ce uses a bubble type flare and the ch uses a double flare. From memory i used the rear flexy hose from the ce and remade the hard line that goes to the caliper. In order to do this you will need a few of each of the fittings to have a few practice rounds with. I also had a spare scrap car i used to poach numerous brake lines from which made it easier. I failed at my first attempt and ended up with a leak, but i remade the parts again and was better second time around.

One end of the line should be a double flare and the other a bubble.
51036519_2267107443569863_5665952167194787840_n.jpg

Now it is crucial to make sure you get the right fitting to the right type of flare otherwise you will end up with leaks. It all becomes self explanatory once you start pulling it apart. But for reference these are the two types you will be dealing with.

Double-------------------Bubble
0831B356-A33C-4E1A-9FD3-37789F3D94D7.jpeg1B938670-7954-4004-A36C-9F5928C096CA.jpeg

And to make sure you have the correct fitting, the fitting below on the left uses a tapered fitting and the one on the right it just flat.
image01.jpg

For more detailed information follow this link.
http://racetrackdriving.com/tech/brake-line-flares-metric-sae-inverted-bubble/
 
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That should leave you with something that looks like this.
36716956_10155853613246799_9011483553338228736_n.jpg



If you have any further questions, or things that i haven't explained properly / clearly feel free to pm me and ill try to fix them up asap.
 
Excelllent work. Been meaning to search for this over the last few days. Upgraded (or working? Lol) handbrake would be awesome
 
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