DIY: Steering Boot Change

SDate42

Well-Known Member
Lifetime Premium Member
Just a little guide on how to change a steering boot for the CE Mirage/Lancer
It's a similar set-up for all cars - so this guide is relatively universal.
Heads up - I accept no responsibility for anything that you do wrong/goes wrong/breaks ect
DO feel free however to ask questions I'm more than happy to answer what I can :)

The tools & kit you'll need
Tie Rod End Tool
2x Adjustable Spanner
Breaker Bar
Socket Drive & 17mm Socket (Or spanner)
Pliers
Vernier Calipers
Flat Blade Driver
Hammer
Moly Grease
Silicone Spray (Optional)
And of course a New Boot!
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First Up - Jack up and wheel off
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Being steering stuff, you want to make sure that you can put it all back the way it was before, so what I did to be sure, was
- Mark the top side of the steering arm (Such that if it rotates, it can be re-oriented)
- Mark the top side of the nut locking the tie rod end
- Measure the exposed thread on the steering arm (So it can be returned to the same spot later)

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Remove the split pin with pliers & undo the 17mm castle nut until it sits flush with the bottom of the thread

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(Yes I know my tie rod end is split...)

Then use the tie rod end tool to remove the... tie rod end
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The tie rod end should just 'pop' out with a light hammer hit on the end of the tool

Undo the castle nut completely and wind the tie rod end off the arm, counting the number of rotations until it comes off. This will be useful when re-assembling. Also now take off the locking nut.

On the boot itself there are two clips holding it on - the first is a smaller spring clip hose clamp and the other (If you still have the factory boot) is a spot welded ring clamp. This one cannot be re-used and you will need a hose clamp or cable tie. (Supplied in the kit normally)
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At this point I sprayed a little silicone lube around the neck of the boot to help slide it off but it should come off fairly easily anyway. Time to throw this guy in the bin..

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Stick some moly grease on the now exposed bit of the steering arm, packing a little into the ball joint.
Now is also a good time to check for any play in the joint. Gently pull and push in a few directions - in and out, left to right and up and down. Any movement/play in the joint will be felt clearly by a small 'clunk'. If you can feel that, it's a sign this also needs replacing.

Time to put the new boot on. Slotting it on, the same way the old one came off, it's best to secure the bigger end first and then the smaller.

Putting the tie rod end back on can be tricky to get it exactly back in the same spot and this is why I mentioned taking a stack of measurements above. Getting this wrong changes your toe in and out. You can line it by eye at first - putting the locking nut on and winding it till it just covers the clean bit of thread. You should find that this lines up with where you marked the top of the nut. Next is putting the tie rod end back on - putting it back on with as many turns as you counted it off. It should lightly butt-up against the locking nut. Measuring against your first measurement from the thread to the nut, it should be within half a millimeter to be correct at this stage. As the tie rod can only be 360 degrees out of rotation anything larger than half a millimeter is an indication you're a rotation or two out.

When you think you're right drop the tie rod end back into where it was removed from and then tighten the locking nut.

Tighten the castle nut and slot back in the split pin. You may need to whack the top of the end down with a hammer to lock it back in place.

Wipe everything down - check everything is tight and stick your wheel back on.

Done.
If you followed everything correctly, you should have no need to, however any doubt about if your re-assembly was wrong TAKE IT TO A SHOP!
 
Great little write up, gonna see if I can get this done over Christmas because both of mine are rat *poo*.
Im assuming while your doing this would be a good time to swap out the steering rack bushing (or whatever they're called) if they're trashed
 
Great little write up, gonna see if I can get this done over Christmas because both of mine are rat *poo*.
Im assuming while your doing this would be a good time to swap out the steering rack bushing (or whatever they're called) if they're trashed

Cheers. I don't think they're a directly related job, but while you got the wheel/s off why not aha.
 
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