Sup, im Res and i'll be your magnificent guide thru this rear swaybar install, i'll be really dumbing it down so even if you have very little car knowlege you should understand what is going on pretty well
disclaimer: i take no responsibility for any shhhhtttuff that may go wrong in your install, i try my best to explain as detailed and how to do it in a safe environment as best i can but its up to you to judge whether its safe to get under the car and start work.
1. firstly we will go over preparation and what you will need
2. secondly and most important is SAFETY it absolutly comes first and you must read that section
3. we get into the physical install of the swaybar
4. maintenance of the swaybar, and somme checks to do over the next few weeks
5. adjustable swabars and how to adjust them properly, and what each setting achieves and how it all works
1.
okay so this is the prep. step
what you will need:
1. the bar
2. the mount brackets (2x long brackets, 2x S/)
3. bushes(the rubber things, in the whiteline kit they are bright yellow).... 4 for the 8 shaped brackets, and then 2 larger ones for the main mounts
4. socket set, possibly allen keys depending on brand
5. jack stands and a jack
6. grease, wd40 (threadlock spray optional)
inside tip: in the first few weeks of having mine installed i snapped about 3 standard bolts while driving, my dad being good on advice said i should get some "high tensile steel bolts"
-------------so if you snap a bolt, dont worry its normal, you can get high tensile steel bolts from supercheap, just take in the one thats not broken with the nut to find the right one
-------------never had a snapped bolt since.
2.
okay so safety step, very important, you must read!
[it is a good idea to have the hand brake on, just incase! whenever jackign the car up, if the wheel spins you can get your arm caught, or if your jacking up the front the car can roll back off the stands]
1. jack the car up from the tow point (the little ring at the back of the car) this is a strong point of the chassy, and the jack should stay under it well
2. have a buddy with you, they dont have to work but its always handy to have someone there incase *poo* goes wrong. at the very minimum tell someone you are going to work under your car
3. buy some jack stands if you dont have them, they are relativly cheap for the ammount of safety they provide, place 1 jack stand on each side of the car under the back of the chassy where the side skirts go
4. release the jack very slowly till it is safely settled on the jack stands, leave the jack under the tow point, it will provide a safety net incase the stands fail, this is a very good habit to get into
5. have breaks, blood rushes out of your arms due to gravity, and into your head alot during working under a car, this can cause dizzyness and weak arms, its good to have a break every 5-10 mins of being under the car, have a stretch etc.
<EDIT> also put chocks infront of the front wheels and keep the car in gear so that it cannot roll forward off the jack stands
and a final safety tip, wear some eye PPE (personal protective equipment) like safety glasses, this is becuase the undercarrige of the car gets real dirty and you dont want that stuff getting in your eyes
3.
okay now to install the bar, hope you read the preps and safety guide, if you didnt, go and read it now!
1. main mount brackets (fig. 1 and 2)
okay so not as normal as you would think;
-driver side side mount: face the bracket so that when the bushing is mounted it is facing the front of the car as per fig.1
fig.1
-passneger side mount: this one will face the opposite way to the drivers side mount, so that the bush will face towards the rear of the car as per fig.2 (not the best pic, but its best i could get)
fig.2
2. GREASE UP THE BUSHES WELL!!!! (this will make the bushes last longer and work properly without friction) then put the main bushes on the sway bar, they have a little split in each, make sure, that the split is facing upward when they are mounted, this is just for the 1 in 1million chance the swaybar pushes itself thru the bush split
3. mount the bushes onto the main mounts as seen in fig.1 and fig.2 facing their respective directions along with the swaybar (make sure the swaybar ends are going over the LCA's "lower control arms" like they are in the pictures)
4. then attach the right angle bracket to the front of the LCA for each swaybar end, and attatch the 8 shaped braket to the right angle bracket and the swaybar AFTER GREASING BOTH THE BUSHES IN THE 8 braket!!! (i repeat cos its important) if you notice your swaybar has multiple holes to bolt the 8link into read the bottom section of this post about adjustable swaybars info
as seen in fig.3
fig.3
4.
okay now we have it all installed, we are going into maintenence, also a very important part of any modification :thumbup:
after taking it for the initial test run and you think its all good its still important to check on it.
after having it in for a week, check that no bolts have snapped, check the bushes are okay with no visable signs of wear (the one close to the muffler may be a bit blacked but its okay)
if any issues rectify them
then check in a month and a month after that. if all good you should be right to check every time you do a service, or when you head a bad noise
every year or 2, take the bushes off and give them a real good clean to check for wear, and then regrease them and put them back on
5.
now we are going to cover the adjustable swaybars and what its all about
okay so this diagram fig.4 is what an adjustable swaybar ends look like;
so basically this swaybar has 3 holes like the whiteline adjustable bars have
these adjust as such = the last hole at the end of each arm of the bar is the softest setting, and furthur the hole is away fromt he end of the bar arms the stiffer the bar will be on the suspension
- this swaybar in fig.4 is set to its stiffest setting which is the furthest hole up the arm of the bar
**why and how it works;
because the furthur u go up the bar arms(or the closer u get to the chassy mounts of the bar) the less distance the bar has to flex,
less flex distance = stiffer tighter bar
more flex distance = more flex and softer
fig.4
okay and that covers pretty much everything you will need to know about swaybars
hope you enjoyed the tutorial :thumbup:
disclaimer: i take no responsibility for any shhhhtttuff that may go wrong in your install, i try my best to explain as detailed and how to do it in a safe environment as best i can but its up to you to judge whether its safe to get under the car and start work.
1. firstly we will go over preparation and what you will need
2. secondly and most important is SAFETY it absolutly comes first and you must read that section
3. we get into the physical install of the swaybar
4. maintenance of the swaybar, and somme checks to do over the next few weeks
5. adjustable swabars and how to adjust them properly, and what each setting achieves and how it all works
1.
okay so this is the prep. step
what you will need:
1. the bar
2. the mount brackets (2x long brackets, 2x S/)
3. bushes(the rubber things, in the whiteline kit they are bright yellow).... 4 for the 8 shaped brackets, and then 2 larger ones for the main mounts
4. socket set, possibly allen keys depending on brand
5. jack stands and a jack
6. grease, wd40 (threadlock spray optional)
inside tip: in the first few weeks of having mine installed i snapped about 3 standard bolts while driving, my dad being good on advice said i should get some "high tensile steel bolts"
-------------so if you snap a bolt, dont worry its normal, you can get high tensile steel bolts from supercheap, just take in the one thats not broken with the nut to find the right one
-------------never had a snapped bolt since.
2.
okay so safety step, very important, you must read!
[it is a good idea to have the hand brake on, just incase! whenever jackign the car up, if the wheel spins you can get your arm caught, or if your jacking up the front the car can roll back off the stands]
1. jack the car up from the tow point (the little ring at the back of the car) this is a strong point of the chassy, and the jack should stay under it well
2. have a buddy with you, they dont have to work but its always handy to have someone there incase *poo* goes wrong. at the very minimum tell someone you are going to work under your car
3. buy some jack stands if you dont have them, they are relativly cheap for the ammount of safety they provide, place 1 jack stand on each side of the car under the back of the chassy where the side skirts go
4. release the jack very slowly till it is safely settled on the jack stands, leave the jack under the tow point, it will provide a safety net incase the stands fail, this is a very good habit to get into
5. have breaks, blood rushes out of your arms due to gravity, and into your head alot during working under a car, this can cause dizzyness and weak arms, its good to have a break every 5-10 mins of being under the car, have a stretch etc.
<EDIT> also put chocks infront of the front wheels and keep the car in gear so that it cannot roll forward off the jack stands
and a final safety tip, wear some eye PPE (personal protective equipment) like safety glasses, this is becuase the undercarrige of the car gets real dirty and you dont want that stuff getting in your eyes
3.
okay now to install the bar, hope you read the preps and safety guide, if you didnt, go and read it now!
1. main mount brackets (fig. 1 and 2)
okay so not as normal as you would think;
-driver side side mount: face the bracket so that when the bushing is mounted it is facing the front of the car as per fig.1
fig.1
-passneger side mount: this one will face the opposite way to the drivers side mount, so that the bush will face towards the rear of the car as per fig.2 (not the best pic, but its best i could get)
fig.2
2. GREASE UP THE BUSHES WELL!!!! (this will make the bushes last longer and work properly without friction) then put the main bushes on the sway bar, they have a little split in each, make sure, that the split is facing upward when they are mounted, this is just for the 1 in 1million chance the swaybar pushes itself thru the bush split
3. mount the bushes onto the main mounts as seen in fig.1 and fig.2 facing their respective directions along with the swaybar (make sure the swaybar ends are going over the LCA's "lower control arms" like they are in the pictures)
4. then attach the right angle bracket to the front of the LCA for each swaybar end, and attatch the 8 shaped braket to the right angle bracket and the swaybar AFTER GREASING BOTH THE BUSHES IN THE 8 braket!!! (i repeat cos its important) if you notice your swaybar has multiple holes to bolt the 8link into read the bottom section of this post about adjustable swaybars info
as seen in fig.3
fig.3
4.
okay now we have it all installed, we are going into maintenence, also a very important part of any modification :thumbup:
after taking it for the initial test run and you think its all good its still important to check on it.
after having it in for a week, check that no bolts have snapped, check the bushes are okay with no visable signs of wear (the one close to the muffler may be a bit blacked but its okay)
if any issues rectify them
then check in a month and a month after that. if all good you should be right to check every time you do a service, or when you head a bad noise
every year or 2, take the bushes off and give them a real good clean to check for wear, and then regrease them and put them back on
5.
now we are going to cover the adjustable swaybars and what its all about
okay so this diagram fig.4 is what an adjustable swaybar ends look like;
so basically this swaybar has 3 holes like the whiteline adjustable bars have
these adjust as such = the last hole at the end of each arm of the bar is the softest setting, and furthur the hole is away fromt he end of the bar arms the stiffer the bar will be on the suspension
- this swaybar in fig.4 is set to its stiffest setting which is the furthest hole up the arm of the bar
**why and how it works;
because the furthur u go up the bar arms(or the closer u get to the chassy mounts of the bar) the less distance the bar has to flex,
less flex distance = stiffer tighter bar
more flex distance = more flex and softer
fig.4
okay and that covers pretty much everything you will need to know about swaybars
hope you enjoyed the tutorial :thumbup:
