diy cc lancer carby to 1.8efi swap (no tank upgrade)

leadfoot

Active Member
ok guys as promised here is the start of the cc lancer carby to efi swap

what you'll need
tools (lots of tools)
socket set preferably x2 of common sizes 10 12 14 17
large socket 32mm/ a 1 and 1/14" (shes a big sucker)
spanner set
rattle gun (if you have one makes some nuts/bolts much easier particularly the hub nut 32mm)
engine crane/lift or car hoist (
jack
jack stands
hammer
pry bar

parts
engine
engine loom/ecu
headlight/front loom
air-box or pod
449 afm
pod adapter if using a pod
fuel pump
fuel hose
electrical wire

step 1
eliminate the carburetted piece of rubbish
IMG_0701_zps8fd8a2ce.jpg


this involves disconnecting everything from the engine that runs to the car actual wiring harness vacuum lines etc. you will also have to drain the oils from both the gearbox and engine
pull the drive shafts out
do this by first removing your front wheels to expose the brake disk and hub
in the center you will see a large crown nut secured in place with a split pin remove the split pin and use the large 32mm socket to remove the nut.
next disconnect the hub from the strut by removing the two lower strut bolts the hub should now flop around freely
using one of the strut bolts as a punch and a hammer carefully remove the drive shaft from the hub. the strut bolts are pointed and center on a dimple in the end of the shaft. once the shaft is almost completely out of the hub grab the CV and maneuver it so that it's free of the hub assembly. in such a way that it can be pulled directly inline with the gearbox
using a pry-bar carefully free the opposing ends CV joint from the gear box. it's held in by a spring-clip and may take some negotiating. if possible have a friend help by pulling on the shaft continuously as you slip the pry-bar between the box and CV this will help it pop out.

support the engine and undo all of the engine mount bolts freeing the engine from it's hole from here you can either go under or over the car (under is only recomended if you have a whole vehicle hoist you are going to need the car at waist height MINIMUM to clear the engine. if using a crane the engine has two tie point on the head using chain attach you crane having a leveler helps but is not essential) now carefully lift/drop the engine checking for anything you may have forgotten to remove that's holding the motor in place.

congrats you now have a flint stones car

step 2 loom swap
start by eliminating the carby engine loom and all associated solenoids you won't need them this loom runs under the windsheild washer bottle into the car and connects to the dash loom and some sort of relay under the radio disconnet it from these and free it from it locating lugs on the chassis
IMG_0705_zps2943f72b.jpg

next up remove the headlight loom it plugs into the fuse box and two plugs on the drives side disconnect it and swap it for the efi one (the efi headlight loom has an extra plug on it for the oil pressure switch and temp signals to the dash that the efi one does not)
IMG_0702_zps55c0c446.jpg

IMG_0703_zps2eca0e18.jpg

IMG_0704_zpsc13942fb.jpg


step 3 the fuel system
ok heres where things get tricky and where this section of the diy ends. in order to do this swap in the best way it is recommended you swap in the complete efi system this include the interior loom fuel tank and high pressure lines.
but you can get away with out this by using an external to tank fuel pump.
IMG_0706_zpse8c21382.jpg

you will need to make a bracket for the pump and mount it to the firewall as above and source the fuel pump power/trigger wire from the engine loom inside the cabbin.
the carby engine has a fuel filter mounted on the firewall i chose to mount my fuel pump after this filter.

the pump pictured is a bosch 070 commonly found on vl commodores and is capable of flowing upto around 130lph more than adequate for this setup

TO BE CONTINUED
 
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