CH lancer brake caliper upgrade?

Is it possible to put on evo 1/2/3 twin pot calipers onto a ch steering knuckle with 276mm discs? If not that are there anyother caliper upgrades that will work with the ch steering knuckle?
 
Measure the distance between the mounting points of the caliper to the knuckle. For the Mitsubishis, this is usually the defining factor for caliper upgrades, as they have kept a lot of their other measurements within the same spec/ratio (hat height etc).
For example, the CE caliper's knuckle bolt distance i think is 130mm, of which the Magna, FTO, and Evo3 calipers also have a bolt distance of 130mm, hence being an upgrade.
 
Measure the distance between the mounting points of the caliper to the knuckle. For the Mitsubishis, this is usually the defining factor for caliper upgrades, as they have kept a lot of their other measurements within the same spec/ratio (hat height etc).
For example, the CE caliper's knuckle bolt distance i think is 130mm, of which the Magna, FTO, and Evo3 calipers also have a bolt distance of 130mm, hence being an upgrade.
Sweet i have a spare set of ch steering knuckles i’ll measure them later today
 
Mitsi use Akebono brake callipers on most models so there is some interchangeability. The obvious upgrade is to go to 294mm rotors (off later Lancers with 2.4l engines or Outlanders, ASX etc. Then you need some callipers off the same. They bolt straight up with zero hacking. I did this to my Outlander CU5W and it improved the scary lack of braking power and looks better with 17 inch rims than the puny 276mm rotors. This only works if you have 5 stud hubs. If you specifically want to go the 2 pot callipers then you will get approx the same braking power as single pots on larger rotors. All depends on your view to modding cars - functionality or decoration?
 
I’m after functionality mainly, if getting 294mm discs and later lancer calipers will do that’ll be great. While i’m at it do you know what stainless steel brake lines will work for the CH? And will i need to upgrade the booster or anything else with the braking system?
 
If you go down the 294mm path, buy new rotors (the 26mm thick versions) but get the callipers from a wreckers - I bought mine for $35 each.
The original brake likes fit - it is a plug-n-play mod with zero modding needed. If anything, I would buy a new master cylinder or put a kit through the existing one since these are showing their age and getting a bit spongy.
 
If you contemplate doing the same for the back brakes (upping the rotor size to 304mm) then you will hit a problem with the center hole size being 90mm on the original rotors and 80mm on the newer parts. Not a huge problem if you can get the hole lathed out to 90mm for a modest fee but then you will need to modify the stone guard. The rotors and callipers must be for a Lancer 2.4 or ZG/ZH Outlander (not the later ones) as the handbrake drum disappears in later models when they went to electric handbrake.
 
What about the 2008-15 CY4A Ralliart front calipers? They’re 294mm rotors but with twin pots instead of single pot. Do they bolt straight up on the CH or would i need a custom bracket?
 
Yes they will bolt up but the rotors are 24mm thick instead of 26mm. The 2nd hand callipers should come inclusive with the bracket for 294mm rotors. There is not a big price penalty for being Ralliart parts but the callipers and pads tend to cost significantly more. Incidentally, the 24mm rotors have a habit of warping but maybe that is due to the turbo. Some say that 26mm rotors work fine with some pads but not all.
I think there may be some issue with 2 pot callipers and the stock master cylinder bore size leading to a near floor experience on the pedal under heavy braking. Check out Hensperformance.com and maybe ask some questions there. He is very knowledgeable on this topic.
 
Something to consider also - ensure you end up with a calliper that still has a range of pad options. All well and good to fit something bigger for the cooling factor, but options for pads is good to have.

Since moving to GTO callipers I’ve been able to try Dixcel, DBA, and soon EBC and intima.

I went too big in terms of disc size I believe, but it looks good! The piston sizes are fine in ratio with master.

Brake lines can be made up by any local brake shop - but otherwise just grab a HEL set for a CH. Braided lines are usually illegal pending your state - get them in black sheathing to dodge the cops.
 
The reasoning behind the pathetic rotor sizes on both the CG/CH Lancer and ZE/ZF Outlander is all down to rim size (and cheapskating). You can't put 294mm/304mm rotors on a car with 15" rims. It needs a minimum of 16" rims to fit safely. The other, often overlooked reason, is you don't need huge brakes on smaller diameter tyres. The ZF Outlander has a bigger tyre radius than the CG/CH Lancer and is far heavier but still has the same brakes - a nightmare if you tow a boat:eek: So as rim and tyre diameters go up, so does the need for bigger brakes. It's not all about looks ;)Something 4WD idiots with 33" muddies need to understand - it's all about leverage and a 4WD with large muddies on has stuff all braking i.e. a danger to everyone else on the road.
 
The reasoning behind the pathetic rotor sizes on both the CG/CH Lancer and ZE/ZF Outlander is all down to rim size (and cheapskating). You can't put 294mm/304mm rotors on a car with 15" rims. It needs a minimum of 16" rims to fit safely. The other, often overlooked reason, is you don't need huge brakes on smaller diameter tyres. The ZF Outlander has a bigger tyre radius than the CG/CH Lancer and is far heavier but still has the same brakes - a nightmare if you tow a boat:eek: So as rim and tyre diameters go up, so does the need for bigger brakes. It's not all about looks ;)Something 4WD idiots with 33" muddies need to understand - it's all about leverage and a 4WD with large muddies on has stuff all braking i.e. a danger to everyone else on the road.

This feels targeted at my NL pajero with 33’s… :tearsofjoy:
 
Not one of these hideous contraptions? I had the misfortune of having this one as a work vehicle travelling around virtually all of QLD. Amazing how much petrol a 3.5l V6 can get down its throat when towing a trailer. Only a Barra turbo can suck more petrol!
How good is your braking with the 33's on?
1703738538838.png
 
How did you know mine was white too! Yeah the 3.5 likes to drink fuel for sure…

I never got a direct comparison because the old tyre were bald - I could lock all 4 in the dry. Since the 33’s I’ve replaced/serviced the brakes front and rear. They got better but never as good as I expected - but I am used to Euro’s.

No one else seems to mind how it stops, can still lock the fronts in the wet and lock all 4 on shale or mud.

Might be worthwhile getting the brackets from a widebody - they use the same pad on a larger diameter disc probably to combat the bigger tyre size.
 
Had a quick look at your Pajee thread. Apparently you can put Hyundai rotors and callipers off a Santa Fe on a Lancer (same Akebono brakes) to get 305mm rotors but there is a weight penalty!
The only good NL Pajero is one of these....
1703805248919.png
 
I’m after functionality mainly, if getting 294mm discs and later lancer calipers will do that’ll be great. While i’m at it do you know what stainless steel brake lines will work for the CH? And will i need to upgrade the booster or anything else with the braking system?
Front evo 789 brake lines fit. Rears you'll have to get custom made like I did. I'm AW4G9
 
Hmmm... wreckers about to be cleaned out of Sonata twin pot calipers, luckily nobody knows about the Kia Carnival that has the same twin pot calipers....doh!
 
Hmmm... wreckers about to be cleaned out of Sonata twin pot calipers, luckily nobody knows about the Kia Carnival that has the same twin pot calipers....doh!

What year carnival are we talking here, also would anything need to be changed for the upgraded caliper to push as hard as it would need to?
 
Last edited:
Back
Top