CE mirage sleeper

C

Crash

New Member
Hi everyone,

Long story short, I couldn't use my left leg for 4 years after a car accident. I needed an auto SUV and ended up with a cw6w outlander, which was my first misubishi, and it thoroughly impressed me compared to some of the competitors. So soon as I could us it again, I had to get back behind the wheel of something manual because all the autos over those 4 years had bored me to death, I had a look at cheap hatches and stumbled across a very clean mirage with 133k kms on it.

I picked up the 2003 CE mirage with a 4g15 and it brought back memories of first car, a nuggety little EG civic that couldn't go up hill if the aircon was on, but was huge amount of fun. Needless to say at that point the modding bug bit hard, and now I'm looking at how to keep the little mirage looking stock (more or less) while also making the best go-kart possible out of it.

I'm hoping to keep the budget down where possible by using what I can from the mistubishi/proton parts bin, and at some point get a 4g63/4/9, build it up as a high revving NA motor, and see where things go.

I'd love to hear your thoughts on what motors would be the better option, what other parts to look out for (already planning on an fto 5x114.3 hub + disc conversion, and rear sway bar), or anything else that would be good to know as a new CE owner.
 
Welcome to the forums!

You’re on the right track, buying second oem parts will help you keep the cost down. It’s pretty well exactly what I’ve done with both my cars currently.

An FTO rear sway bar setup will help with more go carty goodness. Probably easier to obtain than other rear sway bars like the Whiteline or Ultra Racing ones. But if anyone of them come up, jump on it! A set of half decent coil overs will also do well make it handle that much better.
Coils and a rear sway is literally all I’ve done to my blue mirage and it’s served me well the last few years doing skidpan days.

Brakes, I think going FTO 5 stud is overrated unless you intend to go for big big brakes for going hard out on a track day with fk tons of power.
I’d say it’s the one mod I regret. I could have stayed 4 stud and had my discs and calipers are retain the same specs. Although my Evo5 wheels look nice, that’s about the only benefit.

Engines, 4G63 = Evo taxes. But I guess plenty of options to make it kick butt.
4G64, not exactly a common option. I got no advice on that.
4G69 is getting more and more popular lately and I’ve seen some good n/a ones out there pulling good quarter mile times.
Probably well worth investigating them all to see some cost vs reward. Perhaps get in contact with Hens when you get to that point.

Feel free to have a read though my ride threads if you like. You might be able to take something away from it. :)
 
ARC said:
An FTO rear sway bar setup will help with more go carty goodness. Probably easier to obtain than other rear sway bars like the Whiteline or Ultra Racing ones. But if anyone of them come up, jump on it! A set of half decent coil overs will also do well make it handle that much better.
Coils and a rear sway is literally all I’ve done to my blue mirage and it’s served me well the last few years doing skidpan days.

Brakes, I think going FTO 5 stud is overrated unless you intend to go for big big brakes for going hard out on a track day with fk tons of power.
I’d say it’s the one mod I regret. I could have stayed 4 stud and had my discs and calipers are retain the same specs. Although my Evo5 wheels look nice, that’s about the only benefit.
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Rear disc brakes and sway bar were definitely the first decent mods I was planning, pretty sure only one drum is working and I don't want to invest in time in something I'll want to replace soon anyway. What makes you say the 5 stud isn't worth it?

I ask because I can't find proton brakes anywhere locally (in WA so there's fewer to pick from) but I've seen 2 separate 5 stud + disc + sway bar conversions locally. I'd probably look for stock magna/fto alloys if I went that way to keep it looking subtle.

My biggest concern would be going too big with the brakes and having lock up issues without abs, I'm not planning on running super wide tyres, but I will be sticking to higher end rubber. It'll most likely stay street driven with the odd track day, and I'm hoping for somewhere in the realm of 130-150kw atw.

Regarding the 4g64 and engine choice in general, it was mainly the dohc head that seems relatively available out of the US that got me interested, especially if it bolts onto a 4g69 as easily as some say. I imagine a 63 dohc head would provide similar results but evo tax could make it more expensive than importing a head. I feel like 4g93/4 NA build would end up very expensive chasing those sort of power figures.
 
Crash said:
Rear disc brakes and sway bar were definitely the first decent mods I was planning, pretty sure only one drum is working and I don't want to invest in time in something I'll want to replace soon anyway. What makes you say the 5 stud isn't worth it?

I ask because I can't find proton brakes anywhere locally (in WA so there's fewer to pick from) but I've seen 2 separate 5 stud + disc + sway bar conversions locally. I'd probably look for stock magna/fto alloys if I went that way to keep it looking subtle.

My biggest concern would be going too big with the brakes and having lock up issues without abs, I'm not planning on running super wide tyres, but I will be sticking to higher end rubber. It'll most likely stay street driven with the odd track day, and I'm hoping for somewhere in the realm of 130-150kw atw.

Regarding the 4g64 and engine choice in general, it was mainly the dohc head that seems relatively available out of the US that got me interested, especially if it bolts onto a 4g69 as easily as some say. I imagine a 63 dohc head would provide similar results but evo tax could make it more expensive than importing a head. I feel like 4g93/4 NA build would end up very expensive chasing those sort of power figures.
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Where abouts in WA are you?
 
JacksonRop2442 said:
Oh that's awesome, there's a guy in halls head who has lots of bits and pieces for these cars. Also what kinda rates do you charge for detailing :tearsofjoy:
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I'm pretty sure I've been chatting with him about one of the 5 stud conversions I was very close to deciding to go that way before seeing that ARC regrets his conversion.

As for detailing, check out detailedcarcare.com.au, and I'd be happy to knock 15% off the pricing for forum members (if that cool with admin, if not let me know and I'll edit this bit out)
 
Crash said:
Rear disc brakes and sway bar were definitely the first decent mods I was planning, pretty sure only one drum is working and I don't want to invest in time in something I'll want to replace soon anyway. What makes you say the 5 stud isn't worth it?

I ask because I can't find proton brakes anywhere locally (in WA so there's fewer to pick from) but I've seen 2 separate 5 stud + disc + sway bar conversions locally. I'd probably look for stock magna/fto alloys if I went that way to keep it looking subtle.

My biggest concern would be going too big with the brakes and having lock up issues without abs, I'm not planning on running super wide tyres, but I will be sticking to higher end rubber. It'll most likely stay street driven with the odd track day, and I'm hoping for somewhere in the realm of 130-150kw atw.
Click to expand...

If a full FTO set up is more easily available to you and you’re still on stock brakes, I’d jump on it. I lived in Perth for a while, so I understand how hard parts can be to get there.

It wasn’t worth it for me because I had already upgraded from stock brakes and then saw others doing “cool 5 stud” with bigger brake and wheel options and fell in to the new fad. The only difference getting a 5th stud and never went ahead with going for bigger disc size. So for me it was a waste of time and money and yielded no benefit.

I’ve got the opportunity now with my white mirage to use some of that hindsight and do it a bit better this time round.
 
ARC said:
It wasn’t worth it for me because I had already upgraded from stock brakes and then saw others doing “cool 5 stud” with bigger brake and wheel options and fell in to the new fad. The only difference getting a 5th stud and never went ahead with going for bigger disc size. So for me it was a waste of time and money and yielded no benefit.
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Thanks for clarifying that, as long as driveability isn't negatively impacted and it's an upgrade. I need to replace the 13" steel wheels anyway, and the price of a 5 stud conversion vs finding proton rear brakes doesn't really phase me. Especially because from my understanding/memory you need the 5 stud trailing arm to accept the fto sway bar?

Do you know of any non-coilover suspension options from other models that would maintain ride height while improving handling? I'm ultimately wanting to keep everything looking oem so when I do go down the engine swap rabbithole I'll hopefully fly under the radar a bit as long as i don't get seen doing anything dumb on the road.
 
Crash said:
Especially because from my understanding/memory you need the 5 stud trailing arm to accept the fto sway bar?
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Yup that's correct. I lowered mine and put that in at the same time, easy to swap over with the suspension out, but still doable with it in there, just have to undo everything connected to the LCA
 
JacksonRop2442 said:
Yup that's correct. I lowered mine and put that in at the same time, easy to swap over with the suspension out, but still doable with it in there, just have to undo everything connected to the LCA
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Sounds like I might be going 5 stud then! I was planning on pulling most of the rear suspension apart to get as much of the nolathane catalog in there as possible, plus replacing anything nolathane don't make with new oem bushes. Probably the perfect time to do both!
 
Crash said:
Sounds like I might be going 5 stud then! I was planning on pulling most of the rear suspension apart to get as much of the nolathane catalog in there as possible, plus replacing anything nolathane don't make with new oem bushes. Probably the perfect time to do both!
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Thats not a bad idea, depending if you want to go with new or second hand rotors/pads, there's a different guy near me who does the 5stud with no rotors or pads for about $300
 
Crash said:
Especially because from my understanding/memory you need the 5 stud trailing arm to accept the fto sway bar?

Do you know of any non-coilover suspension options from other models that would maintain ride height while improving handling? I'm ultimately wanting to keep everything looking oem so when I do go down the engine swap rabbithole I'll hopefully fly under the radar a bit as long as i don't get seen doing anything dumb on the road.
Click to expand...

All the FTO stuff interchanges, I’d just grab it all. Including the handbrake cables.

If you want don’t want to go for coil overs, maybe just get a good shock and spring combo to suit. It’ll all be the same, I’m running the same coil overs I had before I put in my FTO gear. Coils will help if you have any clearance issues with what ever wheels you go with. I can’t attest to that though, I only ever got some slight rubbing on my guards and my guard roller guy sorted that out.

If you like factory looking wheels, then check out oem wheels from CH lancers, Outlanders and ASX’s. Same stud pattern and factory offset. You’d be starting at a 16’ rim though.

I’ve got a set of Outlander wheels on mine currently. 16X6 +38 offset I think.

386CC2CB-9540-49FD-A165-FC6BF19B408C.jpeg
 
stay 4 stud and stick to 15” wheels. Many more options for sticky rubber.

only down side to 16’s are limited sizes and types/brands of tyre.

17’s too big for proper rubber unless going to wide body / larger arches for evo spec rubber.
 
unclepaulie said:
stay 4 stud and stick to 15” wheels. Many more options for sticky rubber.

only down side to 16’s are limited sizes and types/brands of tyre.

17’s too big for proper rubber unless going to wide body / larger arches for evo spec rubber.
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I would ideally like to stick with 4x100 and 15s but parts availability of proton brakes is the main limitation. At least there's a couple of decent options in 195/45/16 but 15s are cheaper and there's a few more high end tyre choices.

And don't worry about me going 17s, they'd stand out way too much on a stock looking ce. I’ve sent out a few more enquiries about proton brakes so we'll see what that turns up!
 
Looks like I've found a set of proton brakes! Have to wait until the morning to confirm it has rear discs but from what I've found online it should.

Is anyone able to quickly confirm what I'd need off the proton to make it work? I'm pretty sure it would be caliper, rotor, and dust shields at the front. For the rears do I just need everything in this diagram plus the handbrake cables?

Also how difficult is it to get ahold of new rear rotors for the proton setup? Looks like the rda410 has been discontinued from the brief look I had.

Thanks in advance for any help!
 

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Crash said:
Looks like I've found a set of proton brakes! Have to wait until the morning to confirm it has rear discs but from what I've found online it should.

Is anyone able to quickly confirm what I'd need off the proton to make it work? I'm pretty sure it would be caliper, rotor, and dust shields at the front. For the rears do I just need everything in this diagram plus the handbrake cables?

Thanks in advance for any help!
Click to expand...
Anyone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong;

I think it would be easier to get the whole rear end essentially, ie. Rear trailing arms, hubs, rotors, calipers, dust shields, brake lines, handbrake cables etc.

This might also give you some insight, although not sure, it's definitely a good read though.

Brake Upgrade Information V2.0

After discussing with Donki who had originally created the first thread for this we agreed it would be best to create a new one for the information I have been working on. I have been compiling and cross refrencing information regarding brake upgrades recently and have been trying to get it to a...
www.auslancer.com www.auslancer.com
 
JacksonRop2442 said:
Anyone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong;

I think it would be easier to get the whole rear end essentially, ie. Rear trailing arms, hubs, rotors, calipers, dust shields, brake lines, handbrake cables etc.

This might also give you some insight, although not sure, it's definitely a good read though.

Brake Upgrade Information V2.0

After discussing with Donki who had originally created the first thread for this we agreed it would be best to create a new one for the information I have been working on. I have been compiling and cross refrencing information regarding brake upgrades recently and have been trying to get it to a...
www.auslancer.com www.auslancer.com
Click to expand...
I have read through that and the original brake upgrade thread. The brakes would be coming from the other side of the country, so I'm hoping to need as few parts as possible to cut down freight costs.

From my understanding and looking at diagrams, the caliper adapter bracket and dust shield sit in place of the drum backing plate using the same and then the hub and rotor replace the rest. Then its just the caliper and the hand brake cable
 
For the rear disc, I'm pretty sure you can get the FTO rear disc and have a brake work shop or engineering work shop redrill the hub from the 4x114.3/5x114.3 to the 4x100. As its a different stud pattern theres no issue with redrilling it, it'll all still be balanced etc.
 
Crash said:
From my understanding and looking at diagrams, the caliper adapter bracket and dust shield sit in place of the drum backing plate using the same and then the hub and rotor replace the rest. Then its just the caliper and the hand brake cable
Click to expand...

This matches my recollection, but I think if you separate the hub from the trailing arm you might need to replace the hub. I think it's a single-use press fit, and removing it may damage it; and I think that's why people say "just get the whole trailing arm setup".

Which, from the perspective of saving on interstate postage, might be a better saving anyway. If you're gonna get new oem hubs locally anyway, then they can leave those out of the shipment and just sent the brackets, dust shields, calipers, rotors, etc. And if you can get new oem rotors locally, that could be another heavy thing that doesn't need to be shipped interstate.
 
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