CE Mirage Cheap Coilover Option (How To Do on a budget)

johnno97

New Member
Hello everyone, I could not find any reliable information on whether there are any 'eBay Coilovers' to suit my 2001 hatchback CE Mirage when I was looking, So I decided just to wing it and buy the closest model and modify them as I need to...
--- https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Adjusta...m23e792ef2e:g:pCkAAOSwB7lfcJ0U&frcectupt=true --- From Maxpeedingrods. (Mitsubishi Lancer/Mirage (CS6A /CS7A) FWD 02-06)

So as opposed to what google searching/ forums were loosely saying, "The fronts will go straight in, but the rears will need the mounts replaced/ modified", Which I actually found to be pretty much the opposite in my experience, The rears go straight in, but there were two things that needed modifying on the front Coilover bases that mount to the front hubs.

(See attached photo's)
First, is the brake line retainer bracket which is welded to the OEM struts and will need to be cut off and welded onto the Coilover base to hold the brake lines in their proper position.
And the second is the spacer that is welded onto the OEM strut, working to space the strut mount to where it meets the hub, this will need to be carefully removed, (Via drilling the spot welds, grinding through the weld bead at the bottom and cold chisel & hammering it out) after removing, they will need to be cut to suit the Coilover hub mount section. This spacer should be (preferably TIG) welded in place to help centre the two M12 hub bolts as the Maxpeedingrod hub mounts have large holes.

Another thing I do with these Al'cheapo's is linish the paint away from where the hub bolts clamp onto, as the bolts can and will shift from the thick paint and put your camber alignment off.

Make sure to check every bolt on these are nice and tight and use Locktite on the shaft top bolts that hold the upper mounts on before you give them a good tighten as you are bound to get the springs rotating when they aren't supposed to and make a clunking noise every time you steer :)

Anyway, I better add these photo's before I continue to rant :p

Jonathan........
 

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Sorry...just checked the bay listing. Mines too old.
Seems there's no easy suspension upgrades for CB's, other than old fashioned struts and springs.
Problem is I hate really low cars, there's just not practical for daily drivers.
 
That’s pretty neat Johnno! Interesting that they needed modifying. I’m sure if the people suggesting/helping knew you could weld like that, a much better suggestion wouldve been to buy 2nd hand evo coils from either CT or CP generation. But hey, youve got brand new coils vs used, so again trade offs.

let us know how they feel after 500kms!
 
Sorry...just checked the bay listing. Mines too old.
Seems there's no easy suspension upgrades for CB's, other than old fashioned struts and springs.
Problem is I hate really low cars, there's just not practical for daily drivers.
Yeah I agree with you, I have made this setup to look like factory, I have the rears as high as the threaded body would allow safely which is just under standard, and I made the fronts standard height. But yeah I had the same issue, that's why I did this modification, I can't stand not having adjustability.
 
That’s pretty neat Johnno! Interesting that they needed modifying. I’m sure if the people suggesting/helping knew you could weld like that, a much better suggestion wouldve been to buy 2nd hand evo coils from either CT or CP generation. But hey, youve got brand new coils vs used, so again trade offs.

let us know how they feel after 500kms!
Yeah I see what you mean, good idea, that could've worked to have a quality set underneath for a fraction of the cost, but then again this is just a pov-pack Mirage so not too worried tbh hahah, this will be a good test of the cheap ones accually. Will do a few updates in the future as to how they hold up
 
Just wondering on an update of these coilovers, im wanting to lower mine but also don't want a rough ride
Yeah man if you're willing to go to the effort of modifying these to suit the CE model then go for gold!

Suprisingly I have found the best damper adjustment to be quite soft (a bit bumpy but it doesn't bother me at all) in my Mirage (10 clicks stiffer than softest in he fronts, and 7 clicks from the softest in the rears out of a '24 click' range) camber is on the first notch negative from '0' on the camber tops.

Compared to when I had Maxpeedingrods in my AE92 Corolla, these are much more forgiving in the area of comfort, but obviously don't expect factory land yacht kind of comfort.
 
Yeah man if you're willing to go to the effort of modifying these to suit the CE model then go for gold!

Suprisingly I have found the best damper adjustment to be quite soft (a bit bumpy but it doesn't bother me at all) in my Mirage (10 clicks stiffer than softest in he fronts, and 7 clicks from the softest in the rears out of a '24 click' range) camber is on the first notch negative from '0' on the camber tops.

Compared to when I had Maxpeedingrods in my AE92 Corolla, these are much more forgiving in the area of comfort, but obviously don't expect factory land yacht kind of comfort.
If you do go for them, be sure to put some grease in the front pillow ball mount ball joint (upper camber plate), this stops the 'spring bounce' noise when turning the wheel.
 
If you do go for them, be sure to put some grease in the front pillow ball mount ball joint (upper camber plate), this stops the 'spring bounce' noise when turning the wheel.
You have sort of lost me on the this location sorry, are you talking at the ball joints at the hub or the shocks lower mounting spot where you can add camber adjustable bolt kits?
 
You have sort of lost me on the this location sorry, are you talking at the ball joints at the hub or the shocks lower mounting spot where you can add camber adjustable bolt kits?
Okay, no what I mean is if you do decide to go with ebay Coilovers, to be sure that you lubricate the front upper camber plate pillow ball joint.
The one in the photo.
Doing so will eliminate the 'spring hop' noise when you rotate the steering wheel
 

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(UPDATE)
So I have now done about 5000 K's on these Maxpeedingrods, all I can complain about is that I have gone over them a week or so ago and one of the height adjustment perches (Front right) has made its way loose, and they get a little surface rust on the threaded bodies.

The other thing is that as soon as you put a tougher spring/ shock combination in all your other bushes that you couldn't hear before show their 'real' condition, for example, the front lower control arm mounts will need doing soon (thud when going over little bumps at speed).
Overall, they are *fudge*ing mint if you take care of them (General maintenance/ lubricate pillow ball joint and use locktite where necessary) for the price you pay!

P.S The biggest downside, the highest I can make the rears go safely (enough threaded body engagement) has the car looking lowered which isn't my intention.
 
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