Ce lancer mod identification?

[crucible76]

Hey guys newbie to the forum here I recently bought an elcheapo lancer off marketplace and the previous owners had some work done on it of questionable quality and were less than helpful on specifics leaving it not running quite right. It's an earlier model 1.8lt and from what I can tell they've swapped the throttle body and MAF over to the stock ones off the later model 1.8 (with a pod filter on the end for good measure) as well as done something with the fuel pump and possibly the injectors (haven't had a proper look at them yet). The car still drives fine but it's messed up the idle revs with it idling around 2k once warmed up. Question for you modders out there is why wire in the later models air intake? From what searching I've done I've not found anything on it. My guess was maybe they bored out the throttle body to a larger diameter but why wire in the later type over its original one? What other changes could that signify? Also any advice on how to go about getting the idle revs a bit more reasonable would be great I'm guessing it'll involve getting a new ecu (it has the metal case one) and tuning that for it which I can't really do myself so hoping to avoid that if possible

 

[rigby]

Metal case ecu can't be tuned.

I would assume the crap idle mostly comes from the pod filter. Throw that *poo* out, get the regular airbox and maf sensor back on there and you'll probably see a noticeable difference. Pics of said mods would also help

 

[crucible76]

I know the metal one can't be tuned hence why I said probably need a new one if it needed tuning = pain. Grabbed a couple photos was too dark last night for decent ones. Can't get a look at the fuel pump but that was about the only thing they did tell me they changed and you can hear it's different when the cars on

 

[crucible76]

I compared the intake to one on a later model ce and they matched even what numbers I could pull off them were the same which the earlier ones are supposed to be slightly different as well as these ones obviously being modified to fit in but why?

 

[donki]

Looks like a new/replacement Idle Air Control Valve has been wired in too, which is why youre sitting at 2k idle revs..

Very weird to swap in the throttlebody, IACV, and MAF and still have the old metal ECU - ideally you'd keep the ECU matching, because its an absolute nightmare trying to get it tuned with a mix and match of generations of hardware and ECUs

 

[SDate42]

That idle control valve wiring scares me, same with the MAF wiring.

I would grab yourself a complete wiring loom and a plastic case ecu from a wreckers.

Wipe the replacement loom down with rags and a simple cleaner before fitting it. replace the loom one plug at a time. You’ll get to know the car and its electricals really well and have a good known wiring harness in the car again.

Non genuine parts are going to cause you head aches as well, so if you suspect that something may not be mitsubishi, worth getting the right part.

 

[crucible76]

So update after doing a bit more searching online I went looking for the screw on top of the throttle body that adjusts idle just to see if that would be an easy fix for the high revs and found this. Completely stripped and rusted thinking this could be the problem. Probably just gonna get a new throttle body from the wreckers

 

[SDate42]

Brother there is a tek screw holding in the TPS.

There should be a bolt in there and it should be bottomed out. Worth checking if he o-ring on your tps too.

The idle speed screw should never be touched. It’s factory set on these, the IACValve does all the work.

Probably worth adjusting the throttle cable, just to make sure it’s not holding the throttle open.

Sort the basics, one by one and you’ll get it done.

 

[crucible76]

Brother there is a tek screw holding in the TPS.

There should be a bolt in there and it should be bottomed out. Worth checking if he o-ring on your tps too.

The idle speed screw should never be touched. It’s factory set on these, the IACValve does all the work.

Probably worth adjusting the throttle cable, just to make sure it’s not holding the throttle open.

Sort the basics, one by one and you’ll get it done.

Yeah I'm doubtful this idle speed screw is still in the stock position. And yeah adjusted the throttle cable it was a little tight but wasn't the cause of the problem

 

[crucible76]

So went for a trip to the wreckers yesterday among other things I got a new throttle body. Unfortunately could only find later model ones like what's already on it but grabbed one anyway as at least I know it's not been messed with and I can use the proper plugs to piss off that Frankenstein wiring hanging off the current one. Question for you guys is the current TPS I'm guessing is the original early model one and has 4 wires while the newer one only has 3 google says the 4th wire is the IPS switch should I keep the original TPS or go over to the new one and if I do what should I do with the extra wire?

 

[rigby]

TPS shouldn't be removed. If you do remove it, it needs to be calibrated again. I wrote a DIY how to do that in a dodgy way years ago.

As far as I'm aware you want the ecu, maf, throttle body and everything on the throttle body to be from the same series to eliminate the possibility of gremlins. I would chuck it on as is and see how it runs. Only swap tps if it ran like cheeks.

 

[crucible76]

So new throttle body is in running the new TPS off the old computer and it's 1000% better. Not completely sure what the exact problem was as I found a few other things on the old one that could've caused issues but slapping a new one on seems to have done the trick. I also put the proper plug on the idle control valve making the extremely dodgy wiring only slightly dodgy. New problem now is at times it seems to be idling a little too low dropping to about 500 occasionally (still preferable to revving it's guts out constantly) and my best guess to that is the wire for the IPS switch not actually being connected to anything so next up is finding a workaround for that

 

[crucible76]

That or eBay has a 4 pin aftermarket TPS for like $20

 

[crucible76]

So I managed to get my hands on the correct throttle body for the car for the low low price of free . As you can see though the IAC valve is missing and again is different to the one on the late model. I haven't been able to find just the valve available anywhere but after some research it seems the 4g15 uses the same valve and should be as simple as just bolting it up can anyone confirm or deny this as that's just a short trip to the wreckers away

 

[donki]

IACV is interchangeable yes. Ive had some issue with mine over the years (due to retunes of the ECU), and i ended up swapping in and out maybe 3 or 4 IACV's until the car was stable - unfortunately the cars are getting old now, so working parts can start to get a bit hard to come by

 

[Steve99]

So I managed to get my hands on the correct throttle body for the car for the low low price of free . As you can see though the IAC valve is missing and again is different to the one on the late model. I haven't been able to find just the valve available anywhere but after some research it seems the 4g15 uses the same valve and should be as simple as just bolting it up can anyone confirm or deny this as that's just a short trip to the wreckers away

Yeah mate 4g15 and 4g93 1st gen TBs are the same.
Like Donki said, swapping then around does work, but due to old age they can just not work correctly. I swapped about 4 over before I got one that sort of worked lol.
Buying cheap IACV may work for some. I had issues buying a cheap one.