CE Lancer ECU tuning

SomeRandomGuy said:
(broken link!) cheers for getting back tho
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Edited the link, that’s what I’ve used on my 1999 NL pajero when in a pinch. On that car, I have hd success with the Zenith Z5 scan tool also.

And I made a type-o, the connector is for re-flash not re-fresh
 
Too easy, cheers

Also regarding a mirage with an auto trans, using the short pin 1 to ground method, I get flashing on the Neutral "N" light/led in the cluster (constant short blinking similar to the MIL light (at the same time)). I assume this means my transmisison is also good?
 
One question i have this ECU MD336151 (apparently i see online this is for 4g15?) my engine is 4g13 and we had some floats here in Greece and the ecu was burned. i found one with code MD347016 is this one compatible? i am confused because i see too many ecu codes. My car is a ck2 1999
 
We didn't get the 1.3L in Australia so idk how helpful we can be. I believe the ecu part number you said is for a 1.3L engine. Unless the 1.3L engine was the same in European Lancers from like 1995-2003? I can't be more helpful than that unfortunately. There is a UK lancer/colt forum as well, they may be able to provide more info

 
rigby said:
We didn't get the 1.3L in Australia so idk how helpful we can be. I believe the ecu part number you said is for a 1.3L engine. Unless the 1.3L engine was the same in European Lancers from like 1995-2003? I can't be more helpful than that unfortunately. There is a UK lancer/colt forum as well, they may be able to provide more info
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rigby said:
We didn't get the 1.3L in Australia so idk how helpful we can be. I believe the ecu part number you said is for a 1.3L engine. Unless the 1.3L engine was the same in European Lancers from like 1995-2003? I can't be more helpful than that unfortunately. There is a UK lancer/colt forum as well, they may be able to provide more info

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Online i see that this part number is for 4g15 , seems that mitsubishi also put this on our european 4g13, ok i will search the uk forum
 
rigby said:
We didn't get the 1.3L in Australia so idk how helpful we can be. I believe the ecu part number you said is for a 1.3L engine. Unless the 1.3L engine was the same in European Lancers from like 1995-2003? I can't be more helpful than that unfortunately. There is a UK lancer/colt forum as well, they may be able to provide more info

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So i figure out what has happened. The car is 4g15 and they put the 4g13 numbers on the block so the correct code is MD347016 and the car has MD336151 because of the 1.6 engine.
 
donki said:
Ramblings. Not all of this is accurate, and I've probably gone over myself a couple times.

So, to keep things relevant, only the plastic case ECUs can be reflashed. The metal case ECUs (to my knowledge) can only be read, and not written to.
To do so, you need a few things:
- Tactrix cable
- Reflash plug: this is a white plug located just above the OBD plug (often tied in with the loom), which is a single wire that goes to the ECU
- Software to flash (ecuflash is a very popular one, i think theres a couple others, but I'm not familiar with them)
- Wideband AFR sensor and gauge
- Plastic case ECU (i think it may be from 1998 onwards?)

Essentially, turn the car to ign, and plug in the tactrix to the laptop and to the OBD and reflash plug. Open up ECUFlash, and click read. Bam, you now have your ECU's ROM file.
The ROM is a "text" document of just hex code that your car's ECU reads to control fueling, timing, rev limit, and a couple other things ill get to below. ECUflash will use another file called definitions to decode this ROM and put it into something that we can read and modify.

Oh wow, this is amazing, I'm going to be able to do so much now!
Yeah nah, hang on a minute. The stock ECU doesn't allow for a whole lot of adjustability.

- You CAN change the injector size (to upgrade to larger injectors), but you need to know the flow rates, and then measure/add in latency (depending on battery voltage). I do not know the upper and lower limits you can input.
- You CAN change the AFR values, but keep in mind it may not respond the way you want it to without that wideband to confirm. I do not know the upper and lower limits you can input. Your fuel map is a 3D table: RPM v LOAD v AFR. From memory, your AFR ranges from 14.7:1~ to 11.6:1~ (ive muddled my stock map as practice, so i dont exactly remember) but remember your ECU's input for this is the stock narrowband o2 sensor, which has a range from like 15:1-14:1, so its not really accurate by a long stretch.
- You CAN change timing; map reads as 3D table again, RPM v LOAD v Degrees. I do not know the upper and lower limits you can input.
- You CAN change the Rev Limit; something higher around 7500 rpm may suit your fancy, providing your upgraded valve train can cope. This is a simple single cell to edit.

This is basically it for the stock ECU. No fancy launch control, no super duper dual mappings, or anything like that. Plain, simple, economic ECU like the car was designed for.
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If i want to swap to low impedance evo injectors would a 15w12ohm resistor do the job. Stock read 17ohms and the evo ones read 5ohms. Im running a t28 with no gate and stock plastic ecu and the boost spikes if i put the foot down. Or would a rising rate fuel reg sort the issue without the injector swap ? I will be installing the fuel reg and tuning
 
LSDiesel said:
If i want to swap to low impedance evo injectors would a 15w12ohm resistor do the job. Stock read 17ohms and the evo ones read 5ohms. Im running a t28 with no gate and stock plastic ecu and the boost spikes if i put the foot down. Or would a rising rate fuel reg sort the issue without the injector swap ? I will be installing the fuel reg and tuning
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Why do you want to change to low Z though; there are an equal amount of high Z performanc-based injectors that will suffice without issues, and theyre a lot more easy to tune without jerryrigging something else together to make it all work.

No wastegate is why youre boost spiking, and with no timing tuning on the stock ECU your timing will be way too lazy, meaning fuel is getting dumped into the exhaust and also increasing boost level. Its like trying to put a fire out with petrol. Get a gate, get the tiiming sorted, and you'll be 50% of the way there, and a LOT more safely. Suitable high z injectors will be sub $200
 
donki said:
Why do you want to change to low Z though; there are an equal amount of high Z performanc-based injectors that will suffice without issues, and theyre a lot more easy to tune without jerryrigging something else together to make it all work.

No wastegate is why youre boost spiking, and with no timing tuning on the stock ECU your timing will be way too lazy, meaning fuel is getting dumped into the exhaust and also increasing boost level. Its like trying to put a fire out with petrol. Get a gate, get the tiiming sorted, and you'll be 50% of the way there, and a LOT more safely. Suitable high z injectors will be sub $200
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I got given the injectors so just being cheap, the gate wont fit as its to close to the block, id need a different bracket and im to lazy to make one, by timing you mean tune? Or advancing/retarding on the belt. Youv pretty much confirmed what i was thinking tho, i still like the idea of jerryrigging but i will think about the gate some more and not rush with the fuel system. Thanks
 
@donki Any chance you can help me out with an ecuflash XML for a 4g15 lancer? My son bought an old 98 lancer that 'just needed a fuel pump' but as it turns out, something has happened with the immobilizer and it doesn't start (code 54). We've spent weeks trying to diagnose it, and even had an Automotive locksmith check it out and coming up trumps. Wiring all seems fine, key is programmed (apparently) but it refuses to start with no injectors firing. I'm hoping to reflash it and disable the immobilizer.
 
Elnino said:
@donki Any chance you can help me out with an ecuflash XML for a 4g15 lancer? My son bought an old 98 lancer that 'just needed a fuel pump' but as it turns out, something has happened with the immobilizer and it doesn't start (code 54). We've spent weeks trying to diagnose it, and even had an Automotive locksmith check it out and coming up trumps. Wiring all seems fine, key is programmed (apparently) but it refuses to start with no injectors firing. I'm hoping to reflash it and disable the immobilizer.
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ping me tonight around 8pm and ill have a look and see what ive got on the 2 or 3 tuning laptops. It may help with the imob issues
 
Thanks @donki - I did actually manage to get the car started after I asked by some advanced trickery. Info in this post

What I want to do now is see if the code from the immobilizer is somewhere in the ECU rom, so that we can easily reprogram in the event of an ECU or key swap.
 
I believe in later series of ECU (the SH from 2006+) the imob code was decoded as an 8 or 12 character code that was translatable, but not in the earlier H8 series. It may be listed, but its in a corrupted hexadecimal format
 
If a wideband O2 sensor is used, can the stock ECU be tuned to be in closed loop 100% of the time and aim for a target AFR through the revrange and throttle range?
 
Spetz said:
If a wideband O2 sensor is used, can the stock ECU be tuned to be in closed loop 100% of the time and aim for a target AFR through the revrange and throttle range?
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In theory yes. The stock ecu will go into open loop above a certain RPM and a certain throttle percentage, but the stock ecu can only "listen to" 14.0 to 15.4 or something very narrow like that, essentially less than 30% throttle and very steady state for emissions reasons, so it'll only be good for idle and cruise
 
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