Brake Upgrade Information

Yeah that's a different bracket. I am unsure on the cast number of a Legnum/Outlander bracket (which in turn would mean that these are possibly from either of these cars as they also use a 4304 Caliper). However for now you can remove the bracket those calipers and use the FTO bracket with that caliper. See the 4319 part use the 2207 one from the FTO. That will allow you to use 276mm rotors.
 
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I've actually done some digging and yes, they are the Legnum/Outlander Brackets (Cast# 4319). That picture helped a lot as now I can add some more info to my spreadsheet regarding them. So yeah, either you use the bracket from those and buy new 294mm rotors (Be aware you will need 16"+ wheels to be able to clear them with that bracket) or you can just use those FTO Brackets with those much newer calipers and still run 276mm rotors. The performance would be negligible and would be purely down to aesthetics at this point, depending on what wheels your running etc, it might look better with a slightly evenly matched rotor size front and back instead of a much larger difference at the front. All up to you, however I personally would love those 294mm brackets! I've just been lazy to look for some myself.
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Edit: Woops, I actually already had that 4319 in my Spreadsheet and the answer was sitting there the whole time! rofl.
 
You can buy those brackets new for not all that much money but I'd say the 294mm brakes are either for looks or pretty fast cars on the track.
I run 276mm rotors are the front and have had no brake fade during 25 min runs out at Winton raceway.
 
Spetz said:
You can buy those brackets new for not all that much money but I'd say the 294mm brakes are either for looks or pretty fast cars on the track.
I run 276mm rotors are the front and have had no brake fade during 25 min runs out at Winton raceway.
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Yeah, thats why i said the performance gain would be negligible, i just want them for aesthetics.
 
Won’t be evo4 as they wouldn’t bolt up to the hub as they use 160mm bolts space rather then the 130mm that the lancer/Fto use
 
I recently done the fto twin pot brake conversion and after reading through this thread I feel as I may have stuffed up maybe

Can anyone confirm that using the stock brake lines from the mirage is all good to use on the fto twin pots? Because that’s what I’ve done and they work mint
Or Do I have to change to fto lines
Cheers
 
stock lines are fine. FTO HEL braided lines are a direct bolt on upgrade too btw
 
Josh34 said:
Arnt the fto lines longer?
The reason I didn’t use the fto lines is because I thought they were too long
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No idea if you can get Lancer/Mirage braided lines, i guess you would be able to.
FWIW, i run HEL FTO braided lines without any issues. The FTO lines are only a little longer than the CE ones anyway, and the extra slack (of a couple cm) is easily managed
 
donki said:
No idea if you can get Lancer/Mirage braided lines, i guess you would be able to.
FWIW, i run HEL FTO braided lines without any issues. The FTO lines are only a little longer than the CE ones anyway, and the extra slack (of a couple cm) is easily managed
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HEL do custom lines anyway, eventually after my 5 stud conversion ill be ordering some.
 
hey, i am planning on doing a brake upgrade and i have an evo 3 brake master cylinder but not a brake booster, will it work fine with the stock brake booster or should i source an evo 3 brake booster
 
Thomas said:
hey, i am planning on doing a brake upgrade and i have an evo 3 brake master cylinder but not a brake booster, will it work fine with the stock brake booster or should i source an evo 3 brake booster
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Technically you don't need to change Master Cylinder or Brake Booster for a brake upgrade. Unless that is all you are doing to upgrade your brakes? I would first do the brake upgrades before changing any of these as many people have had no issues without changing these.
 
yea I have fto front calipers and what I think are cyborg rear trailing arm as it's a 4x100 stud pattern with 260mm rotors, just waiting for coilovers so I can fit it all in in one day
 
4x100 and 260mm is the same a Proton Satria. Also Cyborgs of our models (CE Chassis which is a CJ4A in Japan) are 4x114.3
 
cheers plethora I wasn't sure what they were off as they were off as theyre were at a wrecker in a basket and wasn't too sure what they were from
 
Get those on and in working order first then see how pedal feels before changing anything else
 
Finally got around to doing my FTO brake swap, something I have found was the rack ends have bottomed out attempting to adjust the wheels to somewhat centre again.
Now I didn't do the front LCA's, sheerly because I do wish to try and keep the cars width/track at stock or as close to, I am going to head down in the morning for a wheel alignment (a proper one) I am crossing my fingers that they are even able to do it after hitting the stops inside the tie rod ends and still feeling like the wheels still look a lil toe in, only other way I see is shave a few mm off of the tie rod ends and the rack ends.
Am I the only scrapyard idiot to have faced this issue ?
 
Ilus1v said:
Finally got around to doing my FTO brake swap, something I have found was the rack ends have bottomed out attempting to adjust the wheels to somewhat centre again.
Now I didn't do the front LCA's, sheerly because I do wish to try and keep the cars width/track at stock or as close to, I am going to head down in the morning for a wheel alignment (a proper one) I am crossing my fingers that they are even able to do it after hitting the stops inside the tie rod ends and still feeling like the wheels still look a lil toe in, only other way I see is shave a few mm off of the tie rod ends and the rack ends.
Am I the only scrapyard idiot to have faced this issue ?
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need to trim 5-10mm off the tie rods.
 
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