4G93 stage 1 cam upgrade

BrentonsCE

Member
I am in perth and have had a look around and cant find a stage 1 cam upgrade kit or parts to do the work myself anyone done the same upgrade and have an idea on what i need to do
 
Guys, if you want to keep posting smart-ass crap I'm going to delete it and give you a holiday. If you haven't got anything useful to add to the OP's question then don't comment...
 
I think instead of calling it a cam stage your better off to state a desired rev range Like "stage 2" might be a 264 deg cam aimed for a power band between 1500-5000 or a "stage 4" might be 304 degree cam aimed at 4000-8000, higher the stage doesnt mean s*** to how good it is haha

This website will give you a general idea about Duration vs Rev range. There is also lift to consider. 10mm is about max for the stock vavle springs

http://schneidercams.com/hydraulicnon-a ... hafts.aspx
 
I think in stead of a stage they should just state the bloody degrees as they're all the same and there's not really any secret as they all pretty much copy the same crap and market it to everyone. It's just the manufacturer's not wanting to give their "secret cam grinds out"

Very Basic Equivalencies for the 4g9's
stage 1 - around 252-256 deg more lift then below
stage 2 - around 256-262 deg more lift then below
stage 3 - around 262-272 deg slightly more lift than factory
stage 4 - anything higher too much duration to really allow for any lift

The only real secret is their angles and ramps etc. and each manufacturer has different theories and ways of doing things.

So back to the question, what are you wanting from it?
 
BrentonsCE said:
I am in perth and have had a look around and cant find a stage 1 cam upgrade kit or parts to do the work myself anyone done the same upgrade and have an idea on what i need to do

Assuming that you are referring that you would like a mild cam to aid a standard engine?
As you live in perth, would be worth while giving RPW a call to see what they can offer.

I've dealt with Crow Cams a few times in the past & have found them to be great to deal with. No need to understand a thing about cam numbers. Call them up, have a chat about what you have, and what you are aiming for.
Then either remove you cam and send it off, or, if you can't be with out your car, buy a cam from the wreckers and send that off to have it re-ground.
Get the cam back, install & re-set your tappets as per their clearance specs. All so easy.

Pretty cheap too, last time I had one re-ground was under $150.00 including return postage I think :roll:

Any questions feel free to ask.
 
For reference RPW use Tighe Cams in QLD for their Billets. So it actually works out cheaper to go straight to them, I got a pretty good saving.

EDIT: Regrind will be cheaper again as already mentioned.
 
Thanks for the info all i only called it a stage 1 as i dont know the tech name for it or what the degrees are atm i dont have alot of money to spend but have some to spend my area of limit is to stay with in the parameters of the ecu/ computer ( sorry always forget the name) without happening to fork out a bit for either a new one or a piggy back but i have been told i can go as far as a port and polish a better exhaust. Take my intake to a 58 mm and once again sorry for terms but a stage 1 cam which will give me a bit more power ( obviously a cold air intake aswell ) what are thoughts
 
i think you should go with the basics first, intake/exhaust, get extractors, cat-back, look at aftermarket CAI's or make one, evaluate whether you want to do supporting mods ie, handling/brakes, then look at things like cams, tuning, etc.
 
When you say intake/ exhaust are you saying put the 58mm on and new extractors and exhaust with a cai and then go from there i apologise bout all the questions i know basics and thats about it
 
1.8 4G93
60mm Tb with matching manifold ported.
Head porting and intake and head matched.
Extractors and exhaust 2 or 2.25 inch.

Cam say nothing larger than a 256deg (maybe a small 252in 256exh, lca 108 and 38deg overlap) with say cam with around .5mm lift (or you may start to lean out unless you compensate with fueling of some sort)


Something like that would have some decent low mid torque and a bit more puff up top to around 6500rpm, could be a nice linear power curve too if the supporting exhaust and intake mods are done.
 
Ryan said:
Guys, if you want to keep posting smart-ass crap I'm going to delete it and give you a holiday. If you haven't got anything useful to add to the OP's question then don't comment...
I promise ill be good then
 
th0m0mx83 said:
^rising rate fuel reg could help if it leans out a little no?

I'd steer clear from that (had one in the past) and just put some 240cc 4G94 injectors in, but only if you plan to go further really. The stock should handle what I've put up easy enough, they run pretty rich factory anyway.
 
Thanks for info i will probably start off with the intake / exhaust and a cai then come and ask for some help and suggestions on where to go from there thanks for all the info it is much appreciated
 
a stage 1 regrind should be a nice upgrade, keep in mind its always good to have the supporting mods done first. intake and exhaust/headers etc. keep in mind you should definitely tune the car if you plan to throw a cam in it...

ive got a regrind in my car and have had some good results from it :)
 
Back
Top